Yep, you can get a small brake cylinder hone kit, but you must also buy the super fine grit stones to get the right finish. Used with a bit of kerosene and a battery drill and correct overlapping technique the surface will be perfect. The tool has a flexible shaft so they are pretty easy to use, around 75 bucks all up including the fine grade stones (kit comes with medium grade stones) Start out with the medium grit to remove the bulk, then finish with the fine grit. degrease and flush with meth/turps, blow out with air compressor for cleanliness.
Nissan manual clearly states the cylinder is not to be honed/machined, but I guess they have a reason for this. The ones I've done are still going strong years later.
IMPORTANT: the seals have to face the correct way, ensure you observe the direction they face on dissassembly if you do not have a manual with exploded diagrams - even the manual isn't quite clear in the pics.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Brake fluid going AWOL
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
bogged wrote:yea, $75 for the honestones, $100 for kit or $200 for a reco one...
ya made my mind up - dude at better brakes has them in stock.
Local brake place had seal kits for 33 odd bucks, and I could justify the purchase of my hone kit, but I can see your logic with buying a replacement cylinder.
Built, not bought.
...
Everything Area54 said... I am by no means a mechanic and probably have the skills of a retarted circus chimp on heat with spanners and it was easy for me. The old boy and I used this funky looking thing on the end of his drill. To clean out Hone ??? the inner tube or am I talking about something different
It sort of reminded me of the thing arnie uses to pull the homing device out of his nose in total recall LOL funny scene that. 3 prongs...
Cleaned everything really well. Then put the rebuild kit in. Lubbed the seals up as per the instructions in the workshop manual I have. It took an hour 1/2. But I spent alot of time bleeding the brakes then bleeding again and again. As I hadn't seen the fluid changed in around 40000kms so it was about due...
As I said now I have a tiny weep in the proportioning valve
I haven't relocating the diff mount after doing the 4" coil lift so I will do that and see if it stops...
It sort of reminded me of the thing arnie uses to pull the homing device out of his nose in total recall LOL funny scene that. 3 prongs...
Cleaned everything really well. Then put the rebuild kit in. Lubbed the seals up as per the instructions in the workshop manual I have. It took an hour 1/2. But I spent alot of time bleeding the brakes then bleeding again and again. As I hadn't seen the fluid changed in around 40000kms so it was about due...
As I said now I have a tiny weep in the proportioning valve
I haven't relocating the diff mount after doing the 4" coil lift so I will do that and see if it stops...[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
Re: ...
yea its the same thing you use to hone bores on engines.. just a normal hone tool.JemmyBubbles wrote:Everything Area54 said... I am by no means a mechanic and probably have the skills of a retarted circus chimp on heat with spanners and it was easy for me. The old boy and I used this funky looking thing on the end of his drill. To clean out Hone ??? the inner tube or am I talking about something different
yea not worried bout the job, more worried about being saturday arvo, and gettin the wrong kit :( and no car for work monday... Also the $ of the hone tool that I will only ever use once bit steep at $80.. will price the master cyl kitCleaned everything really well. Then put the rebuild kit in. Lubbed the seals up as per the instructions in the workshop manual I have. It took an hour 1/2. But I spent alot of time bleeding the brakes then bleeding again and again. As I hadn't seen the fluid changed in around 40000kms so it was about due...
Re: ...
ok price from ABS Seaford.
$383 to supply reco one from them.
They dont supply minor seal kit for GQ..
Only Major piston, seals etc... $385 to rebuild mine with the kit
$209 for kit,
$140 for resleeving and 2 days to get sleeve fitted...
rest is R&R (3 bolts)
or $220 for a reco one from bayswater.
$383 to supply reco one from them.
They dont supply minor seal kit for GQ..
Only Major piston, seals etc... $385 to rebuild mine with the kit
$209 for kit,
$140 for resleeving and 2 days to get sleeve fitted...
rest is R&R (3 bolts)
or $220 for a reco one from bayswater.
just replace it i say, sure its more expensive and all but your better off that way, cause if you put something in round the wrong way or that bore is fubar then ya stuffed anyways.
make sure when you fit it back up you bleed the master before fitting. its a little messy but thats what waters for afterwards to wash it all off. at work what we do is put it in the vice, fill the resivour with brake fluid then you put ya fingers over the fittings for the pipes and push the piston in with a screw driver. that'll push the air in there out towards your fingers so what ya do is just lift your finger off slightly to let the pressure out, once the pistons all the way in put your fingers firmly over the holes and let the screwy back out. repeat as required till you have nothing but brake fluid pushing against your finger as you push in. that way you'll have alot less, if any air in your brake lines to bleed out.
make sure when you fit it back up you bleed the master before fitting. its a little messy but thats what waters for afterwards to wash it all off. at work what we do is put it in the vice, fill the resivour with brake fluid then you put ya fingers over the fittings for the pipes and push the piston in with a screw driver. that'll push the air in there out towards your fingers so what ya do is just lift your finger off slightly to let the pressure out, once the pistons all the way in put your fingers firmly over the holes and let the screwy back out. repeat as required till you have nothing but brake fluid pushing against your finger as you push in. that way you'll have alot less, if any air in your brake lines to bleed out.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests