Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Yep, you can get a small brake cylinder hone kit, but you must also buy the super fine grit stones to get the right finish. Used with a bit of kerosene and a battery drill and correct overlapping technique the surface will be perfect. The tool has a flexible shaft so they are pretty easy to use, around 75 bucks all up including the fine grade stones (kit comes with medium grade stones) Start out with the medium grit to remove the bulk, then finish with the fine grit. degrease and flush with meth/turps, blow out with air compressor for cleanliness.

Nissan manual clearly states the cylinder is not to be honed/machined, but I guess they have a reason for this. The ones I've done are still going strong years later.

IMPORTANT: the seals have to face the correct way, ensure you observe the direction they face on dissassembly if you do not have a manual with exploded diagrams - even the manual isn't quite clear in the pics.

yea, $75 for the honestones, $100 for kit or $200 for a reco one...

ya made my mind up - dude at better brakes has them in stock.

bogged wrote:yea, $75 for the honestones, $100 for kit or $200 for a reco one...

ya made my mind up - dude at better brakes has them in stock.

Local brake place had seal kits for 33 odd bucks, and I could justify the purchase of my hone kit, but I can see your logic with buying a replacement cylinder.

Everything Area54 said... I am by no means a mechanic and probably have the skills of a retarted circus chimp on heat with spanners and it was easy for me. The old boy and I used this funky looking thing on the end of his drill. To clean out Hone ??? the inner tube or am I talking about something different

It sort of reminded me of the thing arnie uses to pull the homing device out of his nose in total recall LOL funny scene that. 3 prongs...

Cleaned everything really well. Then put the rebuild kit in. Lubbed the seals up as per the instructions in the workshop manual I have. It took an hour 1/2. But I spent alot of time bleeding the brakes then bleeding again and again. As I hadn't seen the fluid changed in around 40000kms so it was about due...

As I said now I have a tiny weep in the proportioning valve I haven't relocating the diff mount after doing the 4" coil lift so I will do that and see if it stops...

JemmyBubbles wrote:Everything Area54 said... I am by no means a mechanic and probably have the skills of a retarted circus chimp on heat with spanners and it was easy for me. The old boy and I used this funky looking thing on the end of his drill. To clean out Hone ??? the inner tube or am I talking about something different

yea its the same thing you use to hone bores on engines.. just a normal hone tool.

Cleaned everything really well. Then put the rebuild kit in. Lubbed the seals up as per the instructions in the workshop manual I have. It took an hour 1/2. But I spent alot of time bleeding the brakes then bleeding again and again. As I hadn't seen the fluid changed in around 40000kms so it was about due...

yea not worried bout the job, more worried about being saturday arvo, and gettin the wrong kit :( and no car for work monday... Also the $ of the hone tool that I will only ever use once bit steep at $80.. will price the master cyl kit

ok price from ABS Seaford.

$383 to supply reco one from them.
They dont supply minor seal kit for GQ..

Only Major piston, seals etc... $385 to rebuild mine with the kit
$209 for kit,
$140 for resleeving and 2 days to get sleeve fitted...
rest is R&R (3 bolts)

or $220 for a reco one from bayswater.

Did you look under the couch at all bogged?

just replace it i say, sure its more expensive and all but your better off that way, cause if you put something in round the wrong way or that bore is fubar then ya stuffed anyways.

make sure when you fit it back up you bleed the master before fitting. its a little messy but thats what waters for afterwards to wash it all off. at work what we do is put it in the vice, fill the resivour with brake fluid then you put ya fingers over the fittings for the pipes and push the piston in with a screw driver. that'll push the air in there out towards your fingers so what ya do is just lift your finger off slightly to let the pressure out, once the pistons all the way in put your fingers firmly over the holes and let the screwy back out. repeat as required till you have nothing but brake fluid pushing against your finger as you push in. that way you'll have alot less, if any air in your brake lines to bleed out.

i just payed $215 for a new slave cylinder and to get my master cylinder resleaved and power bleed