Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I've broken four trailing arms in my swb paj in 13years, this is avery week area.........Shane

wrong page

It is a load biased proportioning valve. Designed to apply more brake pressure to the rear as you apply more weight.
Note that is has a bleed screw on it, which can help to get the last bit of air out of the system when bleeding....

Jeff

yeah i know what they do, just never seen one on a swb b4. as the car brakes and the rear end lifts up does then reduce the amount of braking going to the rear? I have only locked up once on road in mine, first time i hit the skids so hard the back right wheel lifted off the ground and just chirped as it came back down. thats serious braking, one thing i have been really impressed with. i know a lotus elise can lift the back wheels off but a jabber - fark yeah!!

Anyway back tot the topic , i finally got round the tweeking the torsion bars yesterday to add 1.5 inches to the front. Is there a limit to how far they will go?

-Miz

M1S3RY wrote:Anyway back tot the topic , i finally got round the tweeking the torsion bars yesterday to add 1.5 inches to the front. Is there a limit to how far they will go?

-Miz

Yes, you will run out of threads on your adjusters. You will also run out of space between the bump stops and the stop on the frame on the upper arm.

There is a way to bring it all the way down and pull the torsion bars and reclock them.

Yes, Doug is right. You can disassemble the torsion bar setup, spin the adjuster further around, reinstall. That will get you more height, but then you'll just be sitting on the bumpstop.
NOTE!: After doing this for another Pajero, a week later their CV boot went "split" If you have high kms, raising the bars will be enough to change the running position of the boots, and will cause them to split. I didn't have the problem on mine but mines a '99 .... not so many kms...

and the rear end lifts up does then reduce the amount of braking going to the rear?

Redrocket, yes, I would hope so as it should work as much with weight coming off, as it does with it coming on.

Jeff

I can testify to the CV boots splitting if lifted to high.

I put a new boot on about two months ago but have been running on the bumpstops - have done fk-all km's and have already split the new boot.

Lucky I bought spares.

redrocket wrote:oh i replaced the lower rear trailing arm bushes which got rid of all creaks, clunks, bangs from the rear end

if you arent too mechanically minded or havent got a great deal of time is this still a job for anyone or a job for your mechanic?

My paj is full of creaks, clunck and bangs at the rear end. I asked my mechanic to check out the trailing arm bushes and he said they look ok. I think my bushes need replacing reading your post. Is it just the lower ones that are the noisiest?

awbeattie381 wrote:

redrocket wrote:oh i replaced the lower rear trailing arm bushes which got rid of all creaks, clunks, bangs from the rear end

if you arent too mechanically minded or havent got a great deal of time is this still a job for anyone or a job for your mechanic?

My paj is full of creaks, clunck and bangs at the rear end. I asked my mechanic to check out the trailing arm bushes and he said they look ok. I think my bushes need replacing reading your post. Is it just the lower ones that are the noisiest?

its not that hard at all really. you can do it without even jacking the car up. I did a bit and put the chassis rails on axle stands but not very high. then you just unbolt the park brake cable and then 3 bolts per arm and they just come out. if you are replacing the rear bushes then you may as well do the front ones as well. the rear bushes need to be pressed out, mine were really stuck in there and they needed to have the outer sleeve slit with a hacksaw after pushing the rubber guts out. we were using a 5 ton press and it was struggling on some of them. the new ones go in easy then you take it home, slip the new front ones on and bolt it all back together. the diff may roll a tad(like 1°) so you just use a small jack to line up the bolt holes and its all done. took me about 30mins to remove them and 20mins to put them back in.

mike.

thanks mate - i dont have a press so will probably be taking the beast to my mechanic. cant wait to get rid of the groans and cluncks!!!! i spose thats what you get when you use them as they are supposed to be used hey

I like my worn out bushings, I get all these looks as I articulate. Snap pop, crack. Every one goes like this...

Plus they help you articulate better too, lol.

know exactly what you mean.......

DougH wrote:I like my worn out bushings, I get all these looks as I articulate. Snap pop, crack. Every one goes like this...

Plus they help you articulate better too, lol.

Yep - don't mind the bushes in the back creaking and popping; - it's when the axles go "crack" and the car stops moving forward that my eyes go

Noisey wrote:

DougH wrote:I like my worn out bushings, I get all these looks as I articulate. Snap pop, crack. Every one goes like this...

Plus they help you articulate better too, lol.

Yep - don't mind the bushes in the back creaking and popping; - it's when the axles go "crack" and the car stops moving forward that my eyes go

Been there done that!

Oh Yeah and the Bill from ARB for the locker repair

Noisey wrote:Oh Yeah and the Bill from ARB for the locker repair

Did that as well but on the factory locker.

Yeah well I've done it twice

Bet you've broken more tie rod ends than anybody Frank.

A title you can keep.

To sort of come back on topic:

Car went in for 110 000 km service today, asked him to pull the rear sway bar while it's on the hoist. About two hours later he called to say done, and he found one front CV boot was ?pulled from one end?

I just opened my wallet, looked away and told him to replace all four(?) CV/drive shaft boots while he's got it. How long would such a job take me to do at home, provided I don't f*** anything up?

Scott

The first time I did one (was sorta working it out as I went along) it took me about 5 hours. The car was halfway in the shed cuz it wouldn't fit all the way in and we had to finish the job because we couldn't close the doors of the shed and it was night time, ended up finishing about 2 in the morning
I've noticed another one needs replacing after the last trip out so I should be able to do it a lot quicker and easier now I know how everything comes off and goes back together

Noisey wrote:Bet you've broken more tie rod ends than anybody Frank.

A title you can keep.

Nope thats my title. I am the smasher of steering parts. Idler arms and tierods have no match for my super powers.

i've done 1 rear left axle, 1 diff lock centre, onto my 3rd idler arm, 3rd set of front shocks, 2nd front swaybar, 10th or 11th cv boot, .......

Mike what were you up to today? saw you arrive, meant to catch up later but you were goooone so soon!

Bitsamissin wrote:Yeah I ended up going the Safari Tuff Clutch, seems ok to date.
Looking at it compared to the PBR unit it replaced it is a lot beefier.
There certainly is a kit for the NH 5sp Paj.
From memory the clutch kit was about $360.

Frank.

I just rang up the two places in Newcastle that Exedy (Daikin) told me sells their stuff, one was $500 the other was $560 I'll keep ringing around I think might even try someone in Sydney

Thor wrote:Mike what were you up to today? saw you arrive, meant to catch up later but you were goooone so soon!

i didn't even know you were there. i buggered off up the hill when they started to head for the 2nd part of the waterfall track. it was just getting too boring too watch. i heard a call on the uhf when i was at the top, somthing about 'where did the swb soft top paj go' i called back but got no response. after that i just went home. some clicking noise coming out of the front right cv so just climbed out all the hills in 2h.

redrocket wrote:

Thor wrote:Mike what were you up to today? saw you arrive, meant to catch up later but you were goooone so soon!

i didn't even know you were there. i buggered off up the hill when they started to head for the 2nd part of the waterfall track. it was just getting too boring too watch. i heard a call on the uhf when i was at the top, somthing about 'where did the swb soft top paj go' i called back but got no response. after that i just went home. some clicking noise coming out of the front right cv so just climbed out all the hills in 2h.

ahh wasn't me calling, but maybe next time i catch up. you see the stocker gen1 paj there? not sure how far he was hoping to go! hope the car's alright... would have been at least half a dozen cv's going bye-byes yesterday!!

If you are talking about the silver high top that was me. It went ok a bit over belly rubbing here & there but i didnt do any of the hard stuff at all. I did end up around on Shaws Pocket Rd & went up the hill & around a few track up there but it was my first time to Ormeau & yes i had fun.

Hi Guys
as a test run for your rear arm swivel,
some of the competion guys remove one bolt from their 3 link suspension to increase artic,if it works,and I am looking at it soon my self,I will cut the rear off the bar,tidy the diff and it will look factory.
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