Outer Limits 4x4 Board

bluemq wrote:...yeah but is it really neccesary to do ?

Surely the drums are fine?

Surely you not driven one, they're lacking thats for sure. After some rough play with 33's on the drums to me realy arn't worth a pinch of shit.

Discs are over-rated..... I'm looking forward to having drums allround when my project is finished

stu wrote:

bluemq wrote:...yeah but is it really neccesary to do ?

Surely the drums are fine?

Surely you not driven one, they're lacking thats for sure. After some rough play with 33's on the drums to me realy arn't worth a pinch of shit.

No you are correct, I havn't driven a wrangler yet.

But really - my MQ is on 33's, there are guys running 38's or 39's even and still use the drums on the rear.

I am seriously surprised they make that much difference.

Wooders wrote:Discs are over-rated..... I'm looking forward to having drums allround when my project is finished

that sounds more like it

:o)

wooders is going for some mog axels to compliment his fart bag setup......so he don't count.

im guessing that drums on a MQ are bigger then a D44.

the drums are not all that bad but still a 4B that you pay 30,000 for new....i say disc all round thankyou.

i run the standard rear drums setup still but i'm also on 4.56 diff ratios. Before i re-geared from the standard 3.07 braking was a bit of a bitch as i could not really use the compression braking power of the motor to pull me up in a hurry and i relied mainly on the brakes whiched copped a hiding from it. The hand brake is also connected to the drums too and i would not rely on the handbrake to hold the TJ half way up a gnarly hill.

After i re-geared (recomended if going to 33's and up) I can now brake alot better. However should i still feel the need to throw a lazy $900 at the TJ in the future i may upgrade to rear discs. (buying my lotto ticket soon)

im not trying to convince you not to buy...please do, there still a great 4B.

all im saying is that the rear drums would be one on the things i'd upgrade if i plan to cart around a family in my TJ. If anything for peice of mind, theres crazy driver and braking hard is sometimes required. As i don't have a family, i current couldn't give a squirt. many people think bigger tyres, lower gearing and don't ofter think about the braking abilitied after you regear and / or run larger meats.

im just answering your question with my opinions. TJ brakes are reasonable

true

i only plan to run 31's, 33's at absolute most

that said, the calipers would cost nothing, the brackets would be easy to fabricate

the engineering will cost $$

for what it's worth.. i had no issues with wrangler braking.
sure it would be nicer to stop quicker but maybe i just got used to it.

Ok I'm cheating
But back on track:
The stock brake are average - but will cope with 33's.
There are also a range of upgrades avaialble if really needed - ideas:
Decent brake pads/shoes,
Slotted rotors,
Rear disc conversions,
WJ knuckle/brake conversions,
Or just swap the diffs 'eh

Also could look at bigger rims to fit bigger brakes

Regearing to suit the tyre size will also help.

Thor wrote:for what it's worth.. i had no issues with wrangler braking.
sure it would be nicer to stop quicker but maybe i just got used to it.

i drove accordingly to how efficient i felt the brakes to be. i left large spaces for braking.

Actually I fully understand what you mean now I think about it.

The source of the problem is probably more the pathetic stock gearing.

Shouldn't need to touch the brakes MUCH if at all when declining a hill if your engine braking is any good.

I would probably do gears before I replaced the brakes for that reason anyway.

bluemq wrote:Actually I fully understand what you mean now I think about it.

The source of the problem is probably more the pathetic stock gearing.

Shouldn't need to touch the brakes MUCH if at all when declining a hill if your engine braking is any good.

I would probably do gears before I replaced the brakes for that reason anyway.

If 33's are the max tyre then 4.11 will be good however i'd go 4.56 as i find it great for both offroad and hi-way travel.

be sure to do lockers the same time when you re-gear.

haha noooo

lockers push the budget out considerably :o)

....ok.......you will need to purchase the ring and pinion as well as a new hemispheres (carrier's) to fix the crown wheel to anyway.

the new hemispheres may as well be a detroit, arb locker or OX locker.......you can also purchase new hemi's for the front D30 to suit the ratios and transfer your existing planetary gears into them. im not to sure about the rear diff....as it has a limited slip in the back, and i don't know its works. so you may still have to get a locker for it anyway.

seriously at the least you may to get one rear locker and get a carrier to run an open diff in the front with the new ratios..... this is not cheap..

i have an ARB rear now and a detroit for the front comming from the US.

ahhhhhhhh this sucks.

I thought I read it would cost about $1000 to change the gearing over to suit 33's or so?

I will dig up the thread.

bluemq wrote:ahhhhhhhh this sucks.

I thought I read it would cost about $1000 to change the gearing over to suit 33's or so?

I will dig up the thread.

MWOO,HA,HA,HA

closer to 5k mate! but you can get the cost down if you do as much as you can yourself

NOW
i got R&P for i think $800 (group buy special)
got D30 carrier $250
ARB locker for D44 $1050 (not through ARB)
ARB compressor $350
installed labour $900 (not through ARB)

PART 2
detroit for D30 $305
installed labour $400

True.

I went to see the crysler dealer then and I actually do fit in them, so that's awesome.

The only thing I don't like is the fucking tub -- its like getting in and out of a bath tub.

The dealer was a bit of a wanker too - trying to tell me they have the best resale value out of all cars sold in australia.

That's just lies :p

a dealer is not to be trusted.............but being a jeep it would be nice to get one new and have warrenty to fix the built quality issues as they arise.

However get one second hand and spend the leftover on suspension / tyres / ratios / UHf / lockers.

Is there a list of common problems with them anywhere?

The only one that I have read so far is the faulty rear main seal ?

A small guide / write up on what to look for when purchasing a used TJ would be fantastic if anyone has written one previously.



The car itself people don't fault - but the service department is apparantly not worth a pinch of sh1t.

So buying a used one doesn't worry me that much

* service department are useless anyway.
* I don't mind swinging a wrench - quite easily can do my own mechanical work.

But I still want to know what the common problems are with them, so I can steer clear of a fugged one, and/or know what to look out for when buying it.

I will be buying a bone stock wrangler as I don't want something that's been off road already.

Blue if you really want a bargin look FOR a modded one.
Lockers, ratios and SYE's cost a bomb, but are worth bugger all on the resale.....
The wrangler isn't gonna fall appart just cause it's been used offroad a few times....That said an ex-comp rig probably is going a bit far
But personally I'd be looking for one with the expensive mods already done

Wooders wrote:Blue if you really want a bargin look FOR a modded one.
Lockers, ratios and SYE's cost a bomb, but are worth bugger all on the resale.....
The wrangler isn't gonna fall appart just cause it's been used offroad a few times....That said an ex-comp rig probably is going a bit far
But personally I'd be looking for one with the expensive mods already done

Too true..........one thing i have noticed recently id the younger blokes buying a TJ....modding it well and right ..........then having to sell it off as new issues arise ie requirements for family car / excessive travel plans / or simply can't aford it.

theres bargins in them thar hills.

I reckon I can get a 2nd hand TJ cheap ish and then dump the same amount of money into it then what the modded TJ's are wanting.

I'd rather find a stock one that hasnt been hammered and then do all the mod's myself.

I still reckon it would be hard to find a TJ that has lockers that hasn't been driven hard.

Anything thats stock has a good chance of living it's life in a car park of a hair dresser :p

I know of a black 2005 TJ down here for $32000 that has front and rear ARB's, 4:56 ratios, 4.5" RE long arm etc etc that has NEVER been off road

So finding a TJ with the mods and little off road work is not that hard.

Where abouts you located blue?

im in brisbane

groovy....well if your looking at some second hand wranglers or even want to haggle with the dealers i'd be happy to help.

could almost use my jeep as a blueprint of common problems


rear main seal....wheeping

one seat belt has problem to retract

"star" cracks on bonnet (black)

oh yeah that would be awesome

cheers bro

at least the list of problems is not too big :o)

Seatbelt no retracting is a piece of cake to fix & costs $0.

Rear main seal leaking is common. but varying degrees.....if the bellhousing is damp but the ground underneath is dry it might still be ok.....heck mines had a drip of oil hanging under it for about 60,000km......but never dripps onto the driveway
Pinions seals are another common droblem. rear is simple to replace but the front is a bit trickier.
When driving listen for diff & gearbox noise.

Thing is, the 2005 model I test drove was quiet, but the gearbox was very very notchy (compared to what I am used to).

Maybe it just needed wearing in ?

My gearbox is also like that (6 Speed Getrag) it has got 9000km on it, when it goes in for warranty work soon I will get them to have a look at it, might have something to do with the fact the mercedes build the gearboxes