MQ steering knuckle swap.

[Wendle]

I will measure him for you.

[bj on roids]

Have you measured him yet wandle? Minds of many wish to enquire of the same question!

[Wendle]

Sorry, did forget. stoner and so forth.

[Wendle]

Wendle after constantly bendind my rear track bar im very interested in this set up how is it still performing .Could you list what parts and any hassles that you had did the MQ knuckles bolt straight up and are the tapers for the steering arm from the pitman arm the same on MQ and GQ
thanks inadvance

Sorry dude, I missed this post yesterday.

yep, it all bolts up. I had the tapers reamed out and shimmed backwards to get the tie-rod higher again, but it isn't mandatory. If you leave the tie-rod under the arms (standard MQ style), it is a completely bolt-on deal. I ended up putting 2deg offset trunion bearings in, as the MQ's run lots of + camber, which looked like it was going to ruin my tyres a bit too quick.

People bark on about all the nissan tapers being different, but they all seem the same to me?

As far as parts go, if you read through the thread, I think I have detailed what is needed as clearly as I can?

[duncan]

Thanks for the reply im going to get everything of a wreck tonight all for $70 .You had to refabricate the drag link to suit the GQ style steering but die you just use the MQ tie rod between both swivwl hubs also dose it alter the width of track on the vehicle

[Wendle]

no, the MQ tie-rod is about 100mm too short. get some 33mm seamless for a tie-rod and have it machined to suit. the threads are:

25x1.5 metric fine for the passenger side MQ rod end (the big fawker) a metric conduit tap works for this.
22x1.5 metric fine for the standard nissan rod ends.
30x1.5 metric fine (external) for the cab-chassis style ends.

Sorry Gabriel, still haven't measured him, I have been working on the wrong end of the truck, keep forgetting.

[Gabriel]

Hi Wandle,

How is this what you said you putt "I ended up putting 2deg offset trunion bearings in, as the MQ's run lots of + camber"? I mean what is this trunion bearings and where it is located?! I think do to my english I can't figure it out...The + camber I know what it is, but the "trunion bearings"...;-(((...I don't!

Well, when you gona have time, please measure that distance...but I'm preaty sure that there is not enough space to pass both tie-rod and panhard rod...it seams to me that I'll have to relocate the axle panhard rod support.

Many thanks, Gabriel

[Wendle]

Trunion bearings = knuckle bearings. the bearings on the top and bottom of the knuckle that the knuckle rotates around. you can get ones with an offset cup to alter camber or castor.

Sorry, I must get you that dimension.. my bad..

[bj on roids]

Hi Wandle,

How is this what you said you putt "I ended up putting 2deg offset trunion bearings in, as the MQ's run lots of + camber"? I mean what is this trunion bearings and where it is located?! I think do to my english I can't figure it out...The + camber I know what it is, but the "trunion bearings"...;-(((...I don't!

Well, when you gona have time, please measure that distance...but I'm preaty sure that there is not enough space to pass both tie-rod and panhard rod...it seams to me that I'll have to relocate the axle panhard rod support.

Many thanks, Gabriel

Sometimes they are called or confused with:
King Pin bearings
Swivel Pin/house bearings

all do a similar thing! They are the bearing support at the point where the steering knuckle pivots on the housing.

[Gabriel]

Thanks Wandle, I was thinking that the king bearings we are talking about...

Could you please give me the brand name and the part number of that bearings?

And one more question: do you really have to putt that off-set bearing? I mean the + angle is so bad?!?

PS: I just bought yesterday an entire front axle from a MQ...too bad the free hubs don't work in a GQ...as this axle has the manual hubs genuine on it...;-((

[Wendle]

yeah, the hubs don't fit and the CV's and axles are smaller, so you don't really gain any spares...
the bearings are from here:
www.truckalign.com.au

you don't really need the bearings desperately, just when I was looking at my tyres they seemed to be wearing quicker at the outside edges..
I put in 2deg bearings 1.5deg would probably be a better choice.

[Gabriel]

Thanks Wandle for the site!!

But if you could be so kind and give me the part number and manufacturer, that will help me a lot, as I can't order 4 bearings from Aussy to Romania (the transport will cost much more then the bearings), so I'll try to find its here in Europe. But in order to do that I need the part number....

Many thanks in advance,

Gabriel

[duncan]

Just finished instaling the MQ swivel hubs its a very easy job to do thanks Wendle for the info .
Was wonderinf are the cvs the same as GQ ones they certainly looked the same the only difference i could see was that the inner axle steps down to the splimed section.
On my car im running a 4inch spring lift with a 5 link front end as yet i have not extended my front bump stops and when putting the car up the ramp to check out if it all works i found that with the tie rod in its original position at full stuff my tie rod hits my panhard rod .If i had done the tie rod flip as Wendle had done i would certainly sacrificed some articulation.I did notice a GQ leaf sprung car at work the other day running the same set up .Wondering if the swivel hubs are the same or different so that you dont have to put excentric swivel hub bearings in also would the front diff be wider so could you get the tie rod of one of these instead of having to get one made up.

[chimpboy]

I did notice a GQ leaf sprung car at work the other day running the same set up. Wondering if the swivel hubs are the same or different so that you dont have to put excentric swivel hub bearings in also would the front diff be wider so could you get the tie rod of one of these instead of having to get one made up.

I could be wrong but aren't the leaf-sprung GQs basically MQs underneath? They have the narrower track etc. Would be interesting to find out what's what.

Anyway.

Thanks Wendle for an exceptionally good mod and write-up. Just to summarise, the must-do stuff for this is:

- swap on the MQ knuckles
- swap on the MQ caliper cages
- get a custom tie-rod machined

The should-do stuff is:

- fit eccentric trunion bearings

The could-do item is:

- reverse the taper on the knuckle arm for an even higher mount

Is that correct or did I miss something?

Just trying to get it clear as the thread is fairly long and it would be easy to miss a step.

Jason

[Wendle]

Just finished instaling the MQ swivel hubs its a very easy job to do thanks Wendle for the info .
Was wonderinf are the cvs the same as GQ ones they certainly looked the same the only difference i could see was that the inner axle steps down to the splimed section.
On my car im running a 4inch spring lift with a 5 link front end as yet i have not extended my front bump stops and when putting the car up the ramp to check out if it all works i found that with the tie rod in its original position at full stuff my tie rod hits my panhard rod .If i had done the tie rod flip as Wendle had done i would certainly sacrificed some articulation.I did notice a GQ leaf sprung car at work the other day running the same set up .Wondering if the swivel hubs are the same or different so that you dont have to put excentric swivel hub bearings in also would the front diff be wider so could you get the tie rod of one of these instead of having to get one made up.

the only way to clear the panhard properly is to move the front axle forward enough that the panhard sneaks in between the tie-rod and the housing. I have also lifted the panhard mount on the axle to flatten the angle out to match the drag-link. Any chance of getting pics of your set-up with the ball joints unflipped. The panhard and drag-link angles must be just about identical?
The CV's are smaller 29 spline instead of 31.. Same with the inners and the freewheeling hubs.
The early "GQ" leaf sprung trucks were skinny C200 diffs same as the MQ's. The later (telstra) wide leaf sprung GQ's may have a H233 with front steering arms, I am not sure. There isn't many of them around...

[Wendle]

Thanks Wandle for the site!!

But if you could be so kind and give me the part number and manufacturer, that will help me a lot, as I can't order 4 bearings from Aussy to Romania (the transport will cost much more then the bearings), so I'll try to find its here in Europe. But in order to do that I need the part number....

Many thanks in advance,

Gabriel

Talk to this place, ask to speak to Stuart.
Tell him you are after offset knuckle bearings to suit a Y60 GQ Nissan Patrol.
If you tell him you want the same ones Carlton bought he should be able to pull it up on the computer, as they had to order them in for me.

CAPITAL STEERING AND SUSPENSION
61 02 6280 5243
enquiries@capitalsteering.com.au


and the measurements are kinda not very accurate is my tie-rod is bent lots, but it is about 35mm off the front of the "pumpkin" and about 100mm of the front of the axle tube. I'll get some more accurate figures when I have a straight tie-rod!

[Wendle]

Thanks Wendle for an exceptionally good mod and write-up. Just to summarise, the must-do stuff for this is:

- swap on the MQ knuckles
- swap on the MQ caliper cages
- get a custom tie-rod machined

The should-do stuff is:

- fit eccentric trunion bearings

The could-do item is:

- reverse the taper on the knuckle arm for an even higher mount

Is that correct or did I miss something?

Just trying to get it clear as the thread is fairly long and it would be easy to miss a step.

Jason

yep, that's about it.
Also, if you reverse the taper on the arms, you really have to do something with the panhard, as the drag-link ends up nice and flat, but the panhard doesn't. I finally got around to doing this on the weekend. I forgot to take pics as I did it, so the pics of it finished don't really show much, just a lot of black-painted steel.

[duncan]

Ill try and get some photos tomorrow just on pushing the front diff forward my front springs allready seem to sit forward in that when they are compressed they dont compress squarely down but at an angle hard to explain but photos should show but if you wined the front diff forward dont your springs bend backwards as to the tie rod im going to cut mine and insert a machined step piece that i made out of 4130 your right with the tie rod adjusted out so the toe in looks ok there is only about 20mm of thread left in the end of the tube minimun should be 1 and a 1/2 times the diameter of the threaded bar so about 32mm

[MKPatrolGuy]

95 Leaf sprung GQ tray approx 1230mm long tie rod

[Gabriel]

On my car im running a 4inch spring lift with a 5 link front end as yet i have not extended my front bump stops and when putting the car up the ramp to check out if it all works i found that with the tie rod in its original position at full stuff my tie rod hits my panhard rod .If i had done the tie rod flip as Wendle had done i would certainly sacrificed some articulation..[/quote]

Hi,

One question please: where the tie-rod touch the panhard rod? I mean , the tie-rod hitt the CHASSIS PANHARD ROD SUPPORT, or the tubes (panhard and tie-rod) are touching eachother?
As I can see in the Wandle pics, my main concern will be that the panhard rod chassis support will touch the tie-rod (more then that, in my car I made a LONGER chassis support for the panhard, in order to correct the steering dump and the ends to work in a normal angle...do I made myself clear...??;-)))

Wandle, tommorow I'll contact that company. Many thanks.

Ref the 35 mm...hmmmm...it looks like there is not enough space to pass the panhard rod (I remember you that in my car, the panhard rod has a curved shape, in order to clear the "pumpkin")...so I'll relocate the panhard axle support, I think...

Thanks again for your help!

[Gabriel]

Was wonderinf are the cvs the same as GQ ones they certainly looked the same the only difference i could see was that the inner axle steps down to the splimed section.
[color=cyan][/color]

...As I have now an entire MQ axle....I'm wondering: the lenght of MQ and GQ CV's are the same? Because in this case I could have (as spare parts durring comp's) the MQ cv's, plus the MQ hubs....If I'll destroy a front GQ cv, I could replace it with the MQ ones (in order to don't spend a lot of money for the spare GQ CV's...

What do you think about it?

Thanks, Gabriel

[Wendle]

95 Leaf sprung GQ tray approx 1230mm long tie rod

Is that from taper centre to taper centre? sounds about right.
Does the passenger side end have the big fawker TRE with the tapered hole for the drag-link connection?? Doeas the truck have all that intermediate idler arm stuff?

[Wendle]

One question please: where the tie-rod touch the panhard rod? I mean , the tie-rod hitt the CHASSIS PANHARD ROD SUPPORT, or the tubes (panhard and tie-rod) are touching eachother?
As I can see in the Wandle pics, my main concern will be that the panhard rod chassis support will touch the tie-rod (more then that, in my car I made a LONGER chassis support for the panhard, in order to correct the steering dump and the ends to work in a normal angle...do I made myself clear...??;-)))

Wandle, tommorow I'll contact that company. Many thanks.

Ref the 35 mm...hmmmm...it looks like there is not enough space to pass the panhard rod (I remember you that in my car, the panhard rod has a curved shape, in order to clear the "pumpkin")...so I'll relocate the panhard axle support, I think...

Thanks again for your help!

yeah it comes closest to the actual bush-holder tube welded to the end of the panhard right on the chassis mount. I couldn't get mine to hit with 6" coils though, when the coil was bound there was still about 20mm clearance as the other side of the axle was stretched out a looong way...

Can you get photos of your Left-Hand-Drive setup, I am having trouble picturing him....

[Wendle]

...As I have now an entire MQ axle....I'm wondering: the lenght of MQ and GQ CV's are the same? Because in this case I could have (as spare parts durring comp's) the MQ cv's, plus the MQ hubs....If I'll destroy a front GQ cv, I could replace it with the MQ ones (in order to don't spend a lot of money for the spare GQ CV's...

What do you think about it?

Thanks, Gabriel

They are smaller (29 spline) BUT if you really want to run them, you could swap to the MQ freewheeling hub, and you would have to change one of the wheelbearings to the MQ one. Then you would have to do something custom with the inner axles, as the spline count and length is different.. not really worth it to save a few $ and end up with a weaker CV...

[MKPatrolGuy]

95 Leaf sprung GQ tray approx 1230mm long tie rod

Is that from taper centre to taper centre? sounds about right.
Does the passenger side end have the big fawker TRE with the tapered hole for the drag-link connection?? Doeas the truck have all that intermediate idler arm stuff?

Pretty much centre to centre, was doing it at 11:45 last night in the SES carpark in the dark, i'm pretty sure it had the big tierod end. Definitely had all the intermediate idler arm crap, looked the same setup as under my MK.

[Wendle]

cool, thanks dude.

[duncan]

My tie rod hits my panhard rod were it mounts to the bracket that is welded to the chassis this is only at full stuff if i extend my bump stops ill get away with it wont lose very much whell travel

[Gabriel]

My tie rod hits my panhard rod were it mounts to the bracket that is welded to the chassis this is only at full stuff if i extend my bump stops ill get away with it wont lose very much whell travel

Which means that in my set-up I'll probably have the same problem...so I have to relocate the axle panhard rod support..AND to come back to the original Nissan pnahard-rod chassis support high...But the straight tie-rod deserve this effort ...I think.

Ref using the MQ cv's, Wandle you rught, too much mods for a wicker cv...

Keep in touch, thanks, Gabriel

[duncan]

Guys ive got photos of the front end on my computor but how do you get them on the web

[Wendle]

when you are entering your reply, look a little lower down the screen, there is a box that says "filename" on the left, and has a "browse" button on the right, hit the browse button and find your photo, hit OK, then hit submit.