Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Took the intake apart and sure enough the Air Flow Meters flap was jarred the wrong way. Pushed it and it snapped back into position. Started first go.
It must hurt being that clever Ragin Rover!

Seriously, thanks alot. You saved me a BIG headache!

And just like that, the body lift is back on

v840 wrote:Took the intake apart and sure enough the Air Flow Meters flap was jarred the wrong way. Pushed it and it snapped back into position. Started first go.
It must hurt being that clever Ragin Rover!

Seriously, thanks alot. You saved me a BIG headache!

And just like that, the body lift is back on

Happy to help mate, good to hear you got her going, it is easy when you have seen and heard the problem before, a mate of mine used to carry around a streached out coat hanger to push the afm flap back in the right way in his alfa gtv when it backfired.

We are a caring sharing bunch here in the rover section - well do anything to keep the old girls on the road

Tom

Are there ready made transfer case rebuild kits available? or am I better off getting the gaskets bearings etc. from different places? had a look on the rangie spares site and couldnt see anything??????

v840 wrote:
Took the intake apart and sure enough the Air Flow Meters flap was jarred the wrong way. Pushed it and it snapped back into position. Started first go.
It must hurt being that clever Ragin Rover!

Seriously, thanks alot. You saved me a BIG headache!

And just like that, the body lift is back on


Happy to help mate, good to hear you got her going, it is easy when you have seen and heard the problem before, a mate of mine used to carry around a streached out coat hanger to push the afm flap back in the right way in his alfa gtv when it backfired.

We are a caring sharing bunch here in the rover section - well do anything to keep the old girls on the road

Tom

and they need a helping hand sometimes. Good to see the advice being spot on 1st time. Watching thread with interest.

The one in my RRC came from a County diesel, and now has a 430,000km life span with NO rebuild. The previous owner changed the oil every ten minutes I think, which I believe is the main reason it's still in good nick.
Some of the early LT 230's , the LT230R (For 'roller' bearings)for instance, as fitted to export 84 and 85 model RR's had thrust washers and spacer shims on the intermediate shaft with roller bearings, not unlike the LT95 4spd. I believe these are a better proposition for high loads, but are much more involved to set up because of shim thickness selection for end float etc. The later ones have a crushable spacer between tapered bearings and are a piece of cake to rebuild. The way to check this is to see if the intermediate shaft at the rear of the transfer case has a staked nut or a keeper plate holding the shaft in position. The keeper plate is the early one, the staked nut is the later LT 230T ( For 'tapered' roller bearings) type, and appears on almost every RR 86 on and Disco from 91 on. The Defender has the same Transfer case but has 1.410:1 high range gears, unlike the RR which can range from 1.003:1 all the way to 1.223:1 high range.
Have you also thought that the whine may be front differential?
The noise can sometimes be confusing as to where it is coming from because of the close proximity to the drivers floor area, and some transference along the front driveshaft is possible also.
if you have the chance,you can do away with the crushable spacer and machine a spacer up to fit.over time and lots of hard use this spacer will crush down more,leaving you with more clearence than the preload it was once set up with.

The crushable spacer is very cheap if it requires replacement during the rebuild/ inspection. I always replace them when I am replacing the O rings that leak from the intermediate shaft.
It is easy to check and adjust preload via the staked nut behind transfer case handbrake backingplate while the transfer case is installed, when changing the transfer oil after the first 5000km, remove the bottom plate and if you can feel any endfloat (By hand) of the intermediate gear, then NIP up the nut a little at a time to eliminate it. This will ensure also that the preload is right after the rebuild's new bearings have'settled'.

Even hard use can't cause too much of a endfloat change with the crush tube, and if you check it every now and then, the issue won't be of a concern.

JC

With your body lift it looks like the only other thing missed is to check your brake line length. These can usually be made to suit by moving the fixed mounting position down rather than getting extended lines.
Oh yeah your gas tank - I thought these could only be filled to 80% of actual capacity.

...and seat belt mounts. They may need to be replaced with longer fancy thingo bolts (whatever ya wanna call them) coz they bolt to the chassis. Just get underneath, have a look how they work - they may not need extending; am basically just letting you know that they might. (mine needed extending when a 2" body went in).