Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok its all out on the floor, easy with the hoist, it seems though there was no one with knowledge surfing the board today, got there anyway.

i had a look at the throwout bearing, and as you can see from the pic there's a wear mark where the trowout bearing has been hitting the clutch casing or whatever ya call it, why is it doing this?

now im not to knowlegable when it come to clutches and trannys so whats the deal. Is that bearing supposed to spin in any way, cause mine doesnt!

Remember, it was squealing and it sounded like metal to metal, is this it?

And has anyone had anything to do with this mob, they can supply a heavy duty clutch kit for $484

http://www.xtremeoutback.com.au/contact.htm

cheers

Yep it looks like your throwout bearing is seized. The outside of the bearing should spin freely with the centre fixed.

If the noise was the only problem then you might get away with just a new bearing.

If you have a clutch alignment tool, then you can take off the pressure plate (green) and take a look at the clutch disc itself, and the pressure plate / flywheel surface. But if you dont have something to re-align the clutch dont take it off, just change the bearing. It should be cheap.

The throwout bearing is supposed to touch the finges on the pressure plate, thats why there is a wear mark there. Only thing is that the clutch is spinning when the bearing touches it, thats why it would have been making such a bad noise.

This may sound like a dumb question but what does a clutch alignment tool do, and do you think the wear on the fins will affect the clutches operation, i have no probs with the clutch at the moment, but i might replace it anyway while if got it all out.
cheers

You need to use the alignment tool to get the spline in the centre of the disc aligned with the input shaft in your box, otherwise it will not line up when you try to reinstall it. You do this by aligning the splines with the spigot bearing/bush.

A loose input shaft from a wrecker makes an ideal alignment tool, but you can make a homemade job.

For the homemade job, just find two bits of material that fit the inside diameter of the splines and one that fits the inside diameter of the spigot bearing/bush, join them and align away. Some auto shops may have a plastic one that you can buy.

Hope this helps.

Probably should have added, that you shove the alignment tool into the disc and it will all it to hang off the spigot while you install and tighten down the cover (pressure plate). Sorry this might seem logical, but could be overlooked. Basically the cover will lock the disc into place, you have to push the fingers in to release it.

Also, try and have a squiz in between the fly wheel and block to see if there is any leaks. Now would be an ideal time to replace the rear main if it's on the way out.

Also, make sure you get the flywheel machined if you go for the new clutch, will cost about $50.

The wear on the fingers wont matter (it is hard to see from the photos) unless it has been squealing for ages and the fingers are about to snap off.

but as nalucas said, you really need a 2nd input shaft off another gearbox (which you put into the new clutch disk while you tighten up the pressure plate bolts) otherwise the gearbox will NOT go onto the new clutch and with such a huge mass as this gearbox, you want it to go in first go.

Ok update,
it turned out the throwout bearing was ceased and the clutch was fine, got the box back in by wrapping a drag chain around it, and then hooking the looped chain onto the engine hoist hook(so i could twist the box once raised.
I then raised it right up until the crossmember hit the chassis and the box twisted itself level, i then lowered the box a little and adjusted so the ass of the assy was lower, i guided the tranny on as far as i could and because it was all swing off an engine hoist i held it up against the engine with a scissor jack pushing the tranny forward, the scissor was placed between the handbrake drum and the crossmember), i then wound up the scissor and the engine and tranny mated up, did up all the bellhousing bolts, starter back on, drive shafts, handbrake, clutch slave cylinder, and all the electricals, gear sticks and now im having some dramas with bleeding the clutch, which is in another thread.
thanks for everyones help along the way
cheers

Easyest way to remove the gearbox I have found is...
Remove the gear lever and boot. Engine crane in the door attach to gearbox. Undo all bolts lower gearbox to floor. Disconnect engine crane drag gearbox to one side. I have removed and repaced a gearbox on my own this way.