Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 3:35 pm
Torque convertor takeup rev is not matched to the motor. ie torque convertor is maybe a 1800rpm when it should be a 1200 for a 4cyl
Get rid of the auto, stick a manual in it.
$0.02
Harry
Page 2 of 3
Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 5:10 pm
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:44 am
i am unfamiliar with the fuel system but do they have a boost compensator and smoke screw or is it complete electronic?
sounds to me like fuel but the auto may not be selecting first either if you find someone close that has a real time reader to plug into your pcm (powertrain control module)and see whats happening when it does it
Also have engine idleing and spray aerostart around all intake pipes and boost lines and also rocker cover and anywhere else it may suck air from if engine revs pick up you know there is leak there (also good for checking intercoolers) cause if there is a air leak it may be bypassisng the registerd air through ur ecu and not injectin enough fuel
my 2c anyway
hope u figure it out soon
cooter (al)
sounds to me like fuel but the auto may not be selecting first either if you find someone close that has a real time reader to plug into your pcm (powertrain control module)and see whats happening when it does it
Also have engine idleing and spray aerostart around all intake pipes and boost lines and also rocker cover and anywhere else it may suck air from if engine revs pick up you know there is leak there (also good for checking intercoolers) cause if there is a air leak it may be bypassisng the registerd air through ur ecu and not injectin enough fuel
my 2c anyway
hope u figure it out soon
cooter (al)
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 1:07 pm
cooter wrote:i am unfamiliar with the fuel system but do they have a boost compensator and smoke screw or is it complete electronic?
2LT-E compleatly electronic
sounds to me like fuel but the auto may not be selecting first either if you find someone close that has a real time reader to plug into your pcm (powertrain control module)and see whats happening when it does it
Transmission Rebuilt not the problem
Also have engine idleing and spray aerostart around all intake pipes and boost lines and also rocker cover and anywhere else it may suck air from if engine revs pick up you know there is leak there (also good for checking intercoolers) cause if there is a air leak it may be bypassisng the registerd air through ur ecu and not injectin enough fuel
Engine Rebuilt as well been checked over many times for something like this
my 2c anyway
hope u figure it out soon
cooter (al)
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 5:35 pm
Dingo wrote: Transmission Rebuilt not the problem
I thought that she only got the auto checked, not fully rebuilt.
Brad.
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:43 pm
Go back and read her original post again, it is amazing what info is there when read correctly.
Not evrything has been perfectly worded or in perfect sequence of events.
Engine rebuilt using 2ltll block with CAS added ect all seems to come up ok on all tests. The vehicle is actually a 92 2LT-E Auto.
Pump rebuilt and taken out again and checked by Denso agent in Melbourne, ok
Turbo ok,
No faults showing on diagnosis check.
Correct injectors used and ok
Fuel system checked and ok , filters primerpump ect
Transmissiom clutches replaced as found to be burnt, now ok
Toque convertor checked and seals replaced and now ok
Problem is no power on takeoff, after it gets off the mark all seems fine untill next time you have to stop and takeoff again
Not evrything has been perfectly worded or in perfect sequence of events.
Engine rebuilt using 2ltll block with CAS added ect all seems to come up ok on all tests. The vehicle is actually a 92 2LT-E Auto.
Pump rebuilt and taken out again and checked by Denso agent in Melbourne, ok
Turbo ok,
No faults showing on diagnosis check.
Correct injectors used and ok
Fuel system checked and ok , filters primerpump ect
Transmissiom clutches replaced as found to be burnt, now ok
Toque convertor checked and seals replaced and now ok
Problem is no power on takeoff, after it gets off the mark all seems fine untill next time you have to stop and takeoff again
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:59 pm
Is the auto stuck in 'snow' mode where it locks it in second gear on starting to reduce wheelspin?
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:04 pm
All tests confirm that this is not the case of it being stuck in any gear and I don't think the A343 Transmission has a "snow" mode but could be wrong .andrewfarmer wrote:Is the auto stuck in 'snow' mode where it locks it in second gear on starting to reduce wheelspin?
But if you could eleberate on any TECHNICAL info about "snow" mode would be good to know. Can it be engaged or disengaged manualy.
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:19 pm
Not certain on the surfs, but on a lot of different autos, there is a snow mode - some engage with a specific button, some engage when the 'hold' function is used.
The easiest way to test this is find a long section of road, start off and count the gearshifts up. Get up to at least 100k so it gets into top. Then slow down and count the downshifts.
I suspect it's starting off in second, so you should get an extra downshift. This would also explain why an 'almost stopped but not quite' doesn't cause the power loss that a 'start from totally stopped' does.
The easiest way to test this is find a long section of road, start off and count the gearshifts up. Get up to at least 100k so it gets into top. Then slow down and count the downshifts.
I suspect it's starting off in second, so you should get an extra downshift. This would also explain why an 'almost stopped but not quite' doesn't cause the power loss that a 'start from totally stopped' does.
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:23 pm
Thanks for all your replies, thanks for answering dingo 
Dave have sent you an email, will try the thing Mike is making for me.
Andrew, thats what it does feel like, as if it is taking off in second but how is that fixed and why didnt they pick that up and fix it when they rebuilt it?
Dave have sent you an email, will try the thing Mike is making for me.
Andrew, thats what it does feel like, as if it is taking off in second but how is that fixed and why didnt they pick that up and fix it when they rebuilt it?
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:30 pm
Now you have something to work on, take it back to the auto shop and ask them the question.
They should be able to to test it fairly quickly to see if that is what is happening and why.
Could be a wiring fault, a faulty switch, or a fault in the g/box - but you've got something to ask them now...
Have fun
They should be able to to test it fairly quickly to see if that is what is happening and why.
Could be a wiring fault, a faulty switch, or a fault in the g/box - but you've got something to ask them now...
Have fun
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 3:09 pm
ohhhh yeah great fun!
I will put it to them, but have to wait for the assessor I was dealing with to come back from hols.
plowy I did the stall test thing this morning and it went to just over 1500 revs.
This is what its like, I went for a play in Wombat last week with a friend and had to snatch him out and had no power to snatch lol.
Put it in 4wd LL still struggled, but was able to get it going to pull him out.
I will put it to them, but have to wait for the assessor I was dealing with to come back from hols.
plowy I did the stall test thing this morning and it went to just over 1500 revs.
This is what its like, I went for a play in Wombat last week with a friend and had to snatch him out and had no power to snatch lol.
Put it in 4wd LL still struggled, but was able to get it going to pull him out.
Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 9:41 am
so howd ya go!?!?!
conclusions please
im going through the EXACT same thing
conclusions please
im going through the EXACT same thing
Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 10:01 am
Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 10:27 am
cheers nev
Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:00 pm
Has the electrical system been thoroughly checked? Getting the motor's in and out of these vehicles is fairly tight and the wiring loom and plugs become brittle over time so they are easily damaged, a broken wire or damaged plug that is part of the Engine management System can cause lots of problems.
Had a problem with the vac' solenoids that are mounted near the egr valve on a Surf last year the clip on a plug had snapped and the plug looked like it was on but was not making contact so it blew heaps of black smoke and had no power because the comp' was getting the wrong info.
You say the problem could be the block because it has had a hole machined in it for the egr but I doubt that is the problem because over the years I have drilled 5 of the earlier 2L-T blocks to repair later 2LT-E motors with out any problems.
I really think from what you've written you should get a good auto elec' to check it out .
Good luck with it and I hope it gets properly sorted out soon.
Had a problem with the vac' solenoids that are mounted near the egr valve on a Surf last year the clip on a plug had snapped and the plug looked like it was on but was not making contact so it blew heaps of black smoke and had no power because the comp' was getting the wrong info.
You say the problem could be the block because it has had a hole machined in it for the egr but I doubt that is the problem because over the years I have drilled 5 of the earlier 2L-T blocks to repair later 2LT-E motors with out any problems.
I really think from what you've written you should get a good auto elec' to check it out .
Good luck with it and I hope it gets properly sorted out soon.
Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:45 pm
hey mate she has sorted it, turned out it was the diesel pumpgoannaoffroad wrote:Has the electrical system been thoroughly checked? Getting the motor's in and out of these vehicles is fairly tight and the wiring loom and plugs become brittle over time so they are easily damaged, a broken wire or damaged plug that is part of the Engine management System can cause lots of problems.
Had a problem with the vac' solenoids that are mounted near the egr valve on a Surf last year the clip on a plug had snapped and the plug looked like it was on but was not making contact so it blew heaps of black smoke and had no power because the comp' was getting the wrong info.
You say the problem could be the block because it has had a hole machined in it for the egr but I doubt that is the problem because over the years I have drilled 5 of the earlier 2L-T blocks to repair later 2LT-E motors with out any problems.
I really think from what you've written you should get a good auto elec' to check it out .
Good luck with it and I hope it gets properly sorted out soon.
Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:54 pm
I'll bet saint_she_aint is happy about that.
One of those experience's no one should have to go through.
Cheers G.O.R.
One of those experience's no one should have to go through.
Cheers G.O.R.
Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:57 pm
Apparently it was the fuel pump .. it was rebuilt by a denso authorized diesel mech and checked with a clean bill of health twice afterwards ... go figuregoannaoffroad wrote:I'll bet saint_she_aint is happy about that.
One of those experience's no one should have to go through.
Cheers G.O.R.
Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 10:07 pm
Thats interesting...very interesting.
Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 10:41 pm
well im getting same shit
with a brand new pump
grrr
with a brand new pump
grrr
Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 11:07 pm
The VSVs have nothing to do with the ECU and fuel supply. One operates the EGR valve and the other the small butterfly. Even if both plugs were disconnected it would make no difference to the engine other than disable the EGR system. The EGR hose is often blocked which disables the effect of the VSV anyway. Blocking the hose for the small butterfly is also done with the same effect. Neither will cause black smoke.goannaoffroad wrote: Had a problem with the vac' solenoids that are mounted near the egr valve on a Surf last year the clip on a plug had snapped and the plug looked like it was on but was not making contact so it blew heaps of black smoke and had no power because the comp' was getting the wrong info.
Nev
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 4:06 pm
hmmm, i see.
So your saying the blue m&m`s taste the same as the red ones
Hope you get it sorted chunkz
So your saying the blue m&m`s taste the same as the red ones
Hope you get it sorted chunkz
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 5:35 pm
Exactly ... (How hard can it be .... )sniper wrote:hmmm, i see.
So your saying the blue m&m`s taste the same as the red ones
Hope you get it sorted chunkz
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 6:34 pm
Maybe the small butterfly laid some eggs and when they hatched the caterpillars caused the problem, what ever caused it once the plug was on properly it was right.
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:55 pm
[quote="NiftyNev"][quote="goannaoffroad"]
Had a problem with the vac' solenoids that are mounted near the egr valve on a Surf last year the clip on a plug had snapped and the plug looked like it was on but was not making contact so it blew heaps of black smoke and had no power because the comp' was getting the wrong info.[/quote]
The VSVs have nothing to do with the ECU and fuel supply. One operates the EGR valve and the other the small butterfly. Even if both plugs were disconnected it would make no difference to the engine other than disable the EGR system. The EGR hose is often blocked which disables the effect of the VSV anyway. Blocking the hose for the small butterfly is also done with the same effect. Neither will cause black smoke.
Nev[/quote]
I just took Nev's advice and had a squiz at www.toyotasurf.asn.au
in particular the BLOCKING THE 3 VAC HOSES TO BUTTERFLY HAS REDUCED SMOKE 90% thread it really surpised me that blocking vac' hoses with the heads of nails would be better at curing a problem with an engine rather than me repairing a broken plug in the loom. But you live and learn.I was reading a few other threads too all very interesting stuff certainly opened my eye's there were problems there I'd never even heard of, read a lot of things linked off other sites too certainly wish I had lots more time to sit in front of the computer and learn technical things rather than spend all day on the spanners.
Oh well such is life.
Had a problem with the vac' solenoids that are mounted near the egr valve on a Surf last year the clip on a plug had snapped and the plug looked like it was on but was not making contact so it blew heaps of black smoke and had no power because the comp' was getting the wrong info.[/quote]
The VSVs have nothing to do with the ECU and fuel supply. One operates the EGR valve and the other the small butterfly. Even if both plugs were disconnected it would make no difference to the engine other than disable the EGR system. The EGR hose is often blocked which disables the effect of the VSV anyway. Blocking the hose for the small butterfly is also done with the same effect. Neither will cause black smoke.
Nev[/quote]
I just took Nev's advice and had a squiz at www.toyotasurf.asn.au
in particular the BLOCKING THE 3 VAC HOSES TO BUTTERFLY HAS REDUCED SMOKE 90% thread it really surpised me that blocking vac' hoses with the heads of nails would be better at curing a problem with an engine rather than me repairing a broken plug in the loom. But you live and learn.I was reading a few other threads too all very interesting stuff certainly opened my eye's there were problems there I'd never even heard of, read a lot of things linked off other sites too certainly wish I had lots more time to sit in front of the computer and learn technical things rather than spend all day on the spanners.
Oh well such is life.
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 2:50 am
This problem is either a dodgy fuel pump, a dodgy turbo or stuffed injectors.
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 8:32 am
There is only one solution
BURN THE F*CKER!
BURN THE F*CKER!
Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:37 pm
whack it on ebay, no reserve,
or go a 5litre
or go a 5litre
yuk
Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 2:51 pm
Toyota surf was always a problem I hear from a friend that owned one. It came down to the way they were imported. Get it running and sell it, some young gun will love the thing and you can go shopping for something great. Time to cut the loss and run.