Outer Limits 4x4 Board

-Mick- wrote:Found what I'm going to use for the swingaway bit Big thanks to Nicbeer for helping me with my search engine down syndrome on this one

C0131 - Hub : Steel-noflange :std $37.15

C0131B - Hub : Steel-noflange S/line $38.66

on this page...... http://www.trailerparts.net.au/shop/sto ... egoryID=CA

std or slimline depends on the bearing size used. Std uses a outer 19mm, inner 32mm and seal 37.5mm. Slimline is outer 22mm, inner 35mm and seal 44.5mm. These are std trailer (holden Ford) sizes. I've already purchased a stub axle so I'm going to measure the bearings this afternoon and then order one of these bad boys.

They're steel so you can weld to them and a nice thick wall so strong

Cool, nice find, exactly what i need to finish mine off ! Do they use holden bearings though ?

Yes as far as i know. Holden trailer bearings.

If anyone needs it i should be able to ring these guys and find out what the bearing numbers are...

edit: found this
Q7: What wheel bearings do I need to use with my Trailer?
Dunbier uses standard Holden wheel bearings for all trailers with 39mm round and 40mm Square Axles.
Axles that are 45mm Square use Ford Bearings.

cheers

Hmm ,i wonder how much postage to vic would be for one of those heavy little suckers . Still its easier than machining it myself.

Going by auspost to you it will be $21.50 as they weigh 7kg if i remember.

$7.90 charge and $1.70p/kg parcel post. 4 business days

cheers

loanrangie they're $51 inc post to me in qld so I reckon post will be no worries.... mines in the mail

The slimline is the accepts the stgandard ford bearings and the standard accepts the holden bearings......... couldn't be more perfect

I rang the shop and enquired about it and his first question was "you building a wheel carrier mate?"

$51 is that for bearings as well ? Do SC sell the stubs seperately ?

I didn't actually check but I believe that's bearings included (I already had mine so wasn't too concerned)

The stub axles are $19.99 @ supercheap and they have square and round bases. I bought the square because its easy to match to some box as a mount (square is 40mm)

Great, square stub is good as i can bolt it to my early arb bar easily.

Loanrangie wrote:Great, square stub is good as i can bolt it to my early arb bar easily.

precisely they're a fair bit beefier too than the round ones..... and that's a pretty important link in the grand scheme

I might actually get off my A and finish the swing away sitting in the shed !

Loanrangie wrote:I might actually get off my A and finish the swing away sitting in the shed !

post up some pics when you do (not of your ass )

I haven't really designed mine yet so I need good ideas to steal.... borrow

another one i found.

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,25895.0/all.html

interesting latch.

what latches are people using or going to use?

Nic

:.:BL out yet>

Just found this thread. My 2c.

I'm making a rear bar for my 60 out of RHS. I intend dropping the bearing carrier (female) parts into both ends of the RHS. This way I can easily make a variety of swingaways using cheap square tube trailer axles (male part). If I stuff it, I can have another go. Another reason is that when I don't need em, I can remove the swingaways and place a bung in the bearing holes. No stubs protruding !

Something to consider anyway.

I see what you're saying and I'll be interested to see the result post up pics here when you do it I thought about that (mounting the stub axle upside down) but have never seen one done that way

I received my part from the WA trailer shop yesterday, but they sent me two I guess I have to send one back...... or make a dual carrier

Check thread in 4wd monthly/build ups.
An 80 cruiser doing same thing.

Ian.

[

I received my part from the WA trailer shop yesterday, but they sent me two I guess I have to send one back...... or make a dual carrier [/quote]

Mick, does it uses holden bearings as well ? i am interested, it will save sending it back to wa - pm me.

i had already bought the supercheap stub axles and was about to order the flangeless hub and bearings but i now have a better idea to attach my wheel carrier to the bar. im my case i will be doing a dual rear wheel carrier.

went to the wreckers and got 2 bolt on hub flanges from a drum braked rear corolla. these are complete with bearings and flange and i believe heaps stronger than any trailer stub axle. the beauty of these is they bolt to the rear bar and are easily removed when needed.

below are some pics of what ive done so far. im my impatience to get things rolling i also bought a quality 170 amp stick welder for a top price and couldnt stop myself to take any picks of the hubs b4 i hacked into them.

To bring you upto speed on what id done b4 being able to stop myself from welding, when looking at the hub flange there is the centre spiggot that is 53mm dia, i purchased a 300mm length of 5mm wall x 65 square hollow section. i cut this to 110mm ( as i plan on building the bulk of the carrier from 100x50 with the bottom section on edge ) and sat it over the spiggot then marfed the flange around the outside edge. hook into this with those orsome thin kerf cutting disks then weld the shs in place. the advantage of using a stick welder was i could also weld the spiggot to the inside face of the shs.

the rest of the pics should be self explanatory, though b4 i cut and welded the caps ontop i gave it a spray inside with fish oil for good measure. when it comes time to fit it to the bar i will need to drill a slightly bigger hole in the bar to house the centre nut as shown in 1 of the pics.

i will keep you posted as i go.........

more....

Well finally got off my ass the last few arvos and started this thing Work and sport meant I've had 0 time up till recently.

We've decided for simplicity to build something that bolts to the towbar. See the piccies. Paint and uncleaned welds make it look rough but its solid.... really solid. Once painted it'll look trick too. The main part is 50mm box with a 5mm wall or so and the braces are rectangular tube with about 3mm wall. The boss is welded all the way round where its recessed into the box giving it strength in vertical and horizontal.

The plate to back onto the towbar is about 10mm plate and there's 5 14mm bolt holes to hold it in place. Holesawed a 22mm hole through the bottom of the tube under the boss for the threaded top of the stub axle and cut a 40mm access hole at the bottom to put the crown nut and split pin/ washer onto the stub axle.

Still got to design the swing arm, latch and support but the hard bits done now Total cost thus far $50 for boss, $20 for stub axle..... $70

Any more pics of finished bars?

Im just about to start building mine, had stopped due to the lack of round tube to take the bearings, but after this post, like many on here before me, Ive found my non-machined solution!

Thnaks guys!

I used some 30mm round bar as the pivot and fitted two 60mm x 10mm discs with a 31mm hole in them to each end of a piece of 50mm RHS.

You don't need bearings or hubs for a swing away bar, it is a low speed item and really not swung away more than twice a day when 4Bing.

I wish I new how to post pics so you could see.

Ultimately I would use vesconite bushes (plastic version of bronze bushes) but this does require machining.

I also mounted a new number plate bracket which is bolt on to the tow bar with a trailer number plate light wired into the rear of the trailer plug.

I also intend to fab my own rear bar so saome pics of yours when complete would be good.

Cheers Struth.

Struth,

Using tapered roller bearings is simly a better method of ensuring a good rattle-free pivot point.