Give Russell a call at Opposite Lock Balcatta
93454877 he should be able to get you a fair amount of flex if ya show him what your after.
Dave
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35" MTR's on 75 series
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
baddboy,
big flex from a 75 takes a fair bit of work and $$$$. luckly you can do a fair bit your self. Fisrt thing, i noticed you drive shaft still faces the way it came from the factory. If you turn your drive shaft around so the slip shaft (the skinny end)faces the transfer case yoke and reinstall.
when you start getting more flex this will stop the shaft from rubbing on the cross member (to a point). when you get big flex you will have to modifiy you cross member. The best way i have found so far is to get a peice of 4in tube and cut it down the middle so you end up with a half moon shape, next cut the same shape section out of the cross member right underneath the transfer yoke. weld in the section of tube and plate up both sides with 3-6 mm plate. You may also want to get your front drive shaft modified with a longer slip joint, saves plenty of frustration out on the track.
One of the biggest problems with leaf springs is interleaf friction. In a standard application the friction between the leafs act sort of like a shock absorber, what i recomend you do is strip down each leaf pack and using a 4in grinder and a lot of those flexovit sanding discs curve the end of each leaf so the look kind of moon shaped, if there is any paint on the inner leafs the may touch another leaf, remove it. Then taper out the end of each leaf, this will take the better part of a day. I noticed you don't have friction pads on your leafs, this is common on a lot of heavy duty leaf packs, because of this you may wish to use a molybond grease in between each leaf to further reduce friction. when reassembling your leaf packs don't fold you leaf clamps back down, you can have your type of clamp removed and have a U-type with the bolt fitted, as long as you get a clamp long enough that it won't restrict the spring from opening up. as i said in the previous msg experiment buy removing 1 or 2 leafs.
next of all the spring will only drop as far as the shackle will let it. hence the reason i said to you in the previous msg to have some longer leafs made up for your leaf pack. doing this allows the shackle to angle further forward and BACK allowing more wheel drop. how ever saying this you can simply go and buy a set of drop shackles and have even better flex with out the fuss of having new leafs made. In fact drop shackles are you best bet of getting the most out of your leafs with out going to a 3/4 elliptic leaf spring set up. Superior engineering make the best set of drop shackles i have seen so far. (again with the superior engineering, man those guys must make some money off me) and they ll cost you about $1000 bucks for four of them. once you have the springs and shackles sorted, pull you shocks off and flex up ya truck, have a real good look around and see if there is any thing else preventing you getting the flex you want. modifiy what ever you need to then mesure up you new shocks and away ya go.
WARNING..........
DROP SHACKLES AND EXTENDERD SHACKLES ARE ILLEGAL IN QLD.
CHECK WITH YOUR RELEVANT STATE DEPT OR ENGINEER BEFORE PERFORMING ANY MODS TO YOU TRUCK, IF YOU WANT TO STAY LEGAL.
I have fitted the mentioned mods of 45,47,75 series utes before for mates
and the best i have achived is a 21in from full drop to full compression.
the most it has cost them is about $5000, this includes 4 x 60mm raised custom springs, 4 x tough dog big bore shocks( highly recomended ) 4 x drop shackles, 2 x front shock hoops, front shackle reversal kit, wrap bar on the rear axle, front and rear u-bolt flip kits and making of the rear shock mounts. add the price of a welder, oxy set, grinder and consumables on to that price if you don't have any or can't borrow them. seams like a lot but you can save a by just working out what you need and sticking to it.
any more questions just ask.
have fun.
big flex from a 75 takes a fair bit of work and $$$$. luckly you can do a fair bit your self. Fisrt thing, i noticed you drive shaft still faces the way it came from the factory. If you turn your drive shaft around so the slip shaft (the skinny end)faces the transfer case yoke and reinstall.
when you start getting more flex this will stop the shaft from rubbing on the cross member (to a point). when you get big flex you will have to modifiy you cross member. The best way i have found so far is to get a peice of 4in tube and cut it down the middle so you end up with a half moon shape, next cut the same shape section out of the cross member right underneath the transfer yoke. weld in the section of tube and plate up both sides with 3-6 mm plate. You may also want to get your front drive shaft modified with a longer slip joint, saves plenty of frustration out on the track.
One of the biggest problems with leaf springs is interleaf friction. In a standard application the friction between the leafs act sort of like a shock absorber, what i recomend you do is strip down each leaf pack and using a 4in grinder and a lot of those flexovit sanding discs curve the end of each leaf so the look kind of moon shaped, if there is any paint on the inner leafs the may touch another leaf, remove it. Then taper out the end of each leaf, this will take the better part of a day. I noticed you don't have friction pads on your leafs, this is common on a lot of heavy duty leaf packs, because of this you may wish to use a molybond grease in between each leaf to further reduce friction. when reassembling your leaf packs don't fold you leaf clamps back down, you can have your type of clamp removed and have a U-type with the bolt fitted, as long as you get a clamp long enough that it won't restrict the spring from opening up. as i said in the previous msg experiment buy removing 1 or 2 leafs.
next of all the spring will only drop as far as the shackle will let it. hence the reason i said to you in the previous msg to have some longer leafs made up for your leaf pack. doing this allows the shackle to angle further forward and BACK allowing more wheel drop. how ever saying this you can simply go and buy a set of drop shackles and have even better flex with out the fuss of having new leafs made. In fact drop shackles are you best bet of getting the most out of your leafs with out going to a 3/4 elliptic leaf spring set up. Superior engineering make the best set of drop shackles i have seen so far. (again with the superior engineering, man those guys must make some money off me) and they ll cost you about $1000 bucks for four of them. once you have the springs and shackles sorted, pull you shocks off and flex up ya truck, have a real good look around and see if there is any thing else preventing you getting the flex you want. modifiy what ever you need to then mesure up you new shocks and away ya go.
WARNING..........
DROP SHACKLES AND EXTENDERD SHACKLES ARE ILLEGAL IN QLD.
CHECK WITH YOUR RELEVANT STATE DEPT OR ENGINEER BEFORE PERFORMING ANY MODS TO YOU TRUCK, IF YOU WANT TO STAY LEGAL.
I have fitted the mentioned mods of 45,47,75 series utes before for mates
and the best i have achived is a 21in from full drop to full compression.
the most it has cost them is about $5000, this includes 4 x 60mm raised custom springs, 4 x tough dog big bore shocks( highly recomended ) 4 x drop shackles, 2 x front shock hoops, front shackle reversal kit, wrap bar on the rear axle, front and rear u-bolt flip kits and making of the rear shock mounts. add the price of a welder, oxy set, grinder and consumables on to that price if you don't have any or can't borrow them. seams like a lot but you can save a by just working out what you need and sticking to it.
any more questions just ask.
have fun.
heres some old pic's of a truck that i modified a while ago to give some idea. this truck at the time sat one 33in mtrs a oldman emu 2in pack that we modified, my own custom 2in extended shackles.
the gully in the pic was 700 mm deep and 1 meter wide.
the gully in the pic was 700 mm deep and 1 meter wide.
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