Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Does this all work on LC60 axles?

Slunnie wrote:Does this all work on LC60 axles?

Not for you

Joel, you wanna try some more pics........or try emailing them to me and I'll see if I can get them up.

craigtj@grapevine.net.au

Craig

got same ? as saas

why not get the orders payed up front first then just get the run done stumpy tell them that this is deadline no pay no brakes

would be interested, depending on cost and if they can be engineered in QLD

Joel. does this setup require a master cylinder upgrade??

What model GQ Rotors? The reason i ask is that in bulk, i could probably get these at a really good price from DBA.

What model Scooby Doo calipers?

I will get a quote together to cut 40 of the plates out, that's 10 sets to start with. Hopefully we'll have the price early this week.

Cheers Chris

im keen for a set of plates,
why u making them in 2 halfs why not a single piece ???

would u be willing to share the DXF so others can get them cut

Is this mod engineer friendly?

I would be interested depending on price..

If it's bolt on, engineer friendly and has a handbrake, im interested

count me in dood, i scored some scooby dood calipers yesty

Very interested as well, good to see what price they come in at...

STUMPY wrote:

basketcase wrote:I am in depending on cost. Have to factor in the transfer handbrake as well.

The subaru front calipers that are used have the handbrake built in.

Did not know that. Even better chance of counting me in.

You may want to check that an engineer is happy with the bracket being in 2 pieces. The Engineer i used to deal with in QLD wanted the bracket in one piece.

You should be able to make it this way and have it slide over the housing still.

I also found with my set up when i changed from a normal hoising to an IFS housing i had to space the calipers out 2mm more.

I think the 1 piece using 3 bolts on the housing would be better also,probly cheaper aswell. But in saying that i would still buy the 2 piece.

When the price comes out thoses WA people that are intrested can PM me and we can do a bulk buy again, save on postage.

RyanIAm wrote:If it's bolt on, engineer friendly and has a handbrake, im interested

x2

what i think would be a very very good idea is to get all the small brake lines made up and sell them with the brackets, every one will need them and should end up cheaper than if we all went out and did it our selfs.

I think selling the discs with the kit wont reall work out as u have plane discs, slotted and cross drilled to pick from in not the wreckers, and any savings in bulk buying of the discs would be eaten up buy the extra postage costs.

would these work on a 60 series aswell?

do they have the same bolt pattern?

would the bracket be able to be made in one peice? would that mean only 3 mounting bolts then??? would an engineer like that at all?

apart from brackets, and rotors, what else would need to be done?

different hose? differnt handbrake cable? same master cylinder is fine??

cheers greg

Shadow wrote:would these work on a 60 series aswell?

do they have the same bolt pattern?

STUMPY wrote:

Slunnie wrote:Does this all work on LC60 axles?

Not for you

Theres your answer.

I think he was just being a prick because my old Landy (with LC60 axles) has less flex than his Hilux.

Don't want to be a party pooper but the brackets are only a small part of the whole package, IF you want it work

These calpiers are not a hydraulic match for most Toy systems so you will have to do a lot of other upgrades to get them to even work as good as your current drums,

The earlier type Subi calipers are a lot closer match, not those in the pics as they use a huge piston that requires a lot of fluid volume etc.

I also found the handbrake needed some mods to get it to hold.

For information only

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/Drivetrain3.html

ozrunner wrote:Don't want to be a party pooper but the brackets are only a small part of the whole package, IF you want it work

These calpiers are not a hydraulic match for most Toy systems so you will have to do a lot of other upgrades to get them to even work as good as your current drums,

The earlier type Subi calipers are a lot closer match, not those in the pics as they use a huge piston that requires a lot of fluid volume etc.

I also found the handbrake needed some mods to get it to hold.

For information only

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/Drivetrain3.html

Thank you ozrunner

Yes these brackets are only a small part of the job, but one of the fiddley parts. The subaru calipers do require more fluid but from the information that i have recieved from someone who has done this conversion setup before (very clewy), is that it damatically increases braking, he was running the standard master cylinder and booster, he didn't use an aftermarket brake biasing valve but suggested that it would make it easier to fine tune the rear braking power.

I'm simply doing this conversion myself and am selling these brackets to mount the calipers to the diff housing.

I do not guarantee that is this enginner passable because that is at the discretion of the enginner.

The factory handbrake cable can be retro fitted to the existing hilux setup, or you can use the subaru handbrake lever and cut a hole in you floor to mount it.

There is a slight amount of grinding required on the caliper. The reasons for this are becaused the caliper is designed for a substantually smaller rotor. using the GQ rotor doesn't allow the full surface area of the brake pad to be used. Pics to came explain further and demonstrate this. The amount that is removed is very small i don't believe will effect the strength of the caliper.

I will have more pics to come of a mock setup, hopefully tonight or tomorrow.

Yeah put my name down, you never know if you are going to need this or not

There is a slight amount of grinding required on the caliper. The reasons for this are becaused the caliper is designed for a substantually smaller rotor. using the GQ rotor doesn't allow the full surface area of the brake pad to be used. Pics to came explain further and demonstrate this. The amount that is removed is very small i don't believe will effect the strength of the caliper.

This too may be engineer un-friendly. Not many engineers like modified braking components.

I cant get pics to upload either

Mate I can see where you’re at and wanting to help out and that is great, but on issues such as braking there should be no compromises. Supplying brackets is fine if the follow up parts are all basic items and matched etc that guys can use and in this case they are not.

Rear disc brakes on Toys has been an ongoing issue for years and the reason shops don’t have straight bolt up systems available is because none will work.

The cruiser systems are the only ones that will work without any major changes as they are designed to match the respective Toy MC volumes etc but the problem there is they all use an internal shoe handbrake etc.

First off, the use of GU discs is mentioned. According to DBA these have a centre hole of 111mm. The Toy rear axles is 106 so what is proposed is highly illegal not to mention potentially dangerous. The purpose of the centre hole in discs is to absolutely centrally locate the disc on the axle. Because of its larger hole the GU disc will have to rely on it being centrally located by the wheel nut studs and only then if their chamfer is correct. Otherwise the only thing holding the disc in place will be the tightness of your wheel studs, which is not enough to stop the disc from moving under heavy brake applications, consequently it would be possible for the disc to even move oblong etc with resultant consequences.

No reputable brake engineer would tick off using these discs for this reason and that’s why first off you need to use front Hilux/Cruiser discs but have them machined to 106mm so they are properly located. Stock 75 series rear discs slip straight on but they are machined for internal shoes and have a lot of overhang etc.

Subi calipers are front calipers and we all know that there is more front bias in MC’s etc so when they are put on the rear of a Toy the Toy MC is sadly lacking in volume as it biased for a piddly drum brake cylinder. Most then think its just a case of using a larger MC (me included ) but the problem is that this then screws up your front system if its also not designed for the bigger MC etc. There are a variety of MC sizes used on Toys, which further exacerbates the problems.

Most guys probably have the smaller Toy MC so immediately they will need to upgrade to the Toy 1â€

interested in a set also

Pics of plastic brackets

Sent off for a quote on the cutting. Should have a reply mid week. Will post price as soon as i've got it.

Cheers