Outer Limits 4x4 Board

woohooo!!!!!!!!!!!!! that's my zook getting worked on it's looking good daryl, i can't wait til it's all done!!! with a guard chop, no BL, new paint and s/top covers, it's gonna look sweeeeeet as!! then i'm gonna wheel it a bit and realise i want those 35s and will have to get lux diffs etc etc etc... it never ends....
but i can't wait to get back on and off the road!!!! w00t! big ups to daryl




hey markil, i like the look of those guards how much did they cost ya?

mike wrote:how did you join the al to the steel body?
I'm also thinkin that the Al would be prone to denting from rocks?
I like the idea of saving a bit of weight by having less steel

Everything on the tubs is riveted and then sealed off with silicone. I've had a few rocks travel thier way over the tyre and around the inside of the guard and hasn't damaged them yet. I think it would be pretty unlikely to dent them.

stumped wrote:hey markil, i like the look of those guards how much did they cost ya?

I think I used less then half a sheet of al (2400x1200 sheet) and a sheet costs about $80? I think?

I added a pic showing how much guard was cutout also

Mark.

finished the left rear today
had alot of rust at rear of guard N floor pan

I need some advice before I go cutting some more....

The bit of metal in the pic with the lines down it is what I intend to cut.
I have no idea what purpose it serves other than neaten the inside body area where the 'skin' clicks in & just a continuation of the fold.

I think by removing it I'll be able to get rid of the other rusty crap at the bottom where it all folds over & under itself, and be able to assess the other rust area near the door latch.

Can anyone tell me if they've removed this piece before? I don't think its going to stop the body caving in any less than if it remains there... It just looks like a cavity filler? Or is it structually meant to be there?

Any thoughts?

hey JO

id say your on the right path saying its mainly for looks.
but it would also give a little strength to stop the spot folds & welds from pulling out/cracking over time with body twist etc

id suggest cutting at each end n just fold it back to give you acces. that way you can push to back around & weld it back in after rust repairs are taken care of

excuse my photo chop no paint shop pro here


cheers daryl

I like your idea, I'll give that a go

I do agree it's supposed to serve as a kind of structual significance to the body, being made that way for flex/twist etc. So I won't go chop chop too much .... Knowing my luck the car will probably crumple in a heap anyway, LOL

A bit of progress......

Taking daryls advice I just folded the section back (drill the spot weld at the top & used chisel to hack out the bottom) .... no cut necessary!

Pics below...

Next step - take out wheel arch completely to do guard cut. While its out I'll have easier access to the rust areas in the corners & be able to treat them better, hopefully!

oops pics are back ta front

looking good JO
well done

to make the clean up a little simpler
try buying a hand held sand blaster ftom supercheep/bunnings
around $20-30 use dry sand or beads
ive used one to clean up a very rusty chassis.

worked well except for using moist sand from the sand pit
but thats my fault for being a tight ass

or even better use a gravity fed sand/bead blaster
but thay would be starting around $80-130 n up
better flow rate though. then just paint with kill rust

would save alot of time over using a sander/grinder

cheers daryl

Cool! Actually a sandblaster was on my christmas list (a good quality one that is) ...And since I'm in frequent contact with sand dunes I have a plenitful supply of the dry stuff! Thanks for your help Daryl Keep u posted. Jo

lol beach sand to remove rusty areas... hahaha classic =P

Make sure if you are using ordinary sand in a sand blaster that you wear a decent mask caus that stuff can kill ya.

alien wrote:lol beach sand to remove rusty areas... hahaha classic =P

did I even mention beach sand??!! There are inland dunes around here u know Maybe I should think more carefully for the presumptuous, LOL My parents property also has a good supply of ordinary sand and we don't have to dig deep for it... In reality, i'll probably just do the body rust bits by hand, bit by bit, hour by hour....

Thanks for the advice ausyota, I wear a respirator for sanding at work so have a decent one

Cheers

markil wrote:Here's a couple pics of my rear tubs. They are quite thin alluminium (can't remember thickness off hand) but tough enough that you can stand on them and they feel alot stronger then the original ones. They were easy to make but did take some time to install.

Mark.

mate it looked about some where between 1.5-2.0 mm

cheers
elliot