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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 10:03 am
by chimpboy
GQ wagon, high miler or blown engine, maybe even some damage at rear, from an auction should be well under $4000. Cut into dual/extra cab, make your own tray.
If you get a wagon with the small motor you get diff ratios well suited to the big rubber, and you don't care what original motor is in there anyway.
You might even score one with a factory rear locker, although I wouldn't count on that.
Still leaves you plenty to spend before you hit the $10k mark.
Jason
Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 10:38 am
by Josh_GQ
chimpboy wrote:GQ wagon, high miler or blown engine, maybe even some damage at rear, from an auction should be well under $4000. Cut into dual/extra cab, make your own tray.
If you get a wagon with the small motor you get diff ratios well suited to the big rubber, and you don't care what original motor is in there anyway.
You might even score one with a factory rear locker, although I wouldn't count on that.
Still leaves you plenty to spend before you hit the $10k mark.
Jason
If you can do most of the fabrication work yourself and like working on cars then this is definently the way to go
gq
Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 9:47 am
by known 2
GQ's are so comon but they are tuffer a mate is selling a gq coilcab petrol with a 4i lift frony locker and 33's for 10k if ur interested. but 75-45 cruisers look way better and will probably go for longer as well. cos how many nisans do u see araound from the 70' and 80's not many
Re: gq
Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:41 am
by Hoonz
known 2 wrote:GQ's are so comon but they are tuffer a mate is selling a gq coilcab petrol with a 4i lift frony locker and 33's for 10k if ur interested. but 75-45 cruisers look way better and will probably go for longer as well. cos how many nisans do u see araound from the 70' and 80's not many
but how many 45 - 75 cruisers do you see doing comp work compared to nissans ...
Re: gq
Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 3:34 pm
by Patroler
known 2 wrote:GQ's are so comon but they are tuffer a mate is selling a gq coilcab petrol with a 4i lift frony locker and 33's for 10k if ur interested. but 75-45 cruisers look way better and will probably go for longer as well. cos how many nisans do u see araound from the 70' and 80's not many
If gq's are 'tuffer' why would 75-45 cruisers go for longer?
I'd agree that the 80-100s could be a bit more comfortable inside, but the gq/gu drive train is more likely to handle the engine you're talking about, it's heaps stronger!
If you did as josh_gq suggested and got the small motor gq wagon just make sure you get the gearbox from a 4.2 diesel or petrol as they are stronger than the 2.8td and 3l petrol box. The diffs are the same just have higher ratios for bigger tyres 4.3 instead of 4.1 iirc
Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:26 pm
by cutzook
ssangyong musso
Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:47 pm
by Maggot4x4
NJ SWB wrote:
No, it ALWAYS looks like you bought the "OLD" shape.
Scott
Nah
Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 8:59 pm
by 460cixy
my call would be with defender. but you better buy a japper wouldent wanna be diffrant would ya
Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 10:35 pm
by ofr57
every man and his dog has a patrol coily ute
I'd go landrover choped ute
I've seen one and it goes great
Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 5:38 pm
by sudso
Looks like the old rivalry between nissan-cruiser-landy is alive and healthy.
Well I got something on the weekend but its not what I was originally thinking of but the missus and I sorta really liked what we found and decided to get it:
A coil sprung RJ70 (I think thats right) Bundera complete except motor. Body is good, has SFA rust spots, ARB locked rear with compressor, v/good interior, 2" spring lift, bushes etc. in good nick, winch bar, 33" JT's with good tread, pwr.stg. Oh yeah: 2K
So I think we're off to a good start to build up a fun weekend warrior machine for under 10K.
Think I might stick with the power robbing TH350 auto on the chev though but get a less power robbing smaller convertor that locks up at low revs, Should be able to get one off the shelf, it also has a B&M shift kit in it too but I dont know if thats a good thing or not when off road.
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 1:23 pm
by scout392
I run the lower stall in my V8 and yes it better off road but some times on road I wish the stall were stock.
Also better economy
Less heat in the auto
Also what state will you be rego in?
Eric
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 1:42 pm
by -Scott-
scout392 wrote:I run the lower stall in my V8 and yes it better off road but some times on road I wish the stall were stock.
Also better economy
Less heat in the auto
Did I read that some of the rock crawling buggies run super high stall converters? 4k plus?
Obviously, they're not concerned about on-road performance...
Scott
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 1:11 am
by sudso
scout392 wrote:I run the lower stall in my V8 and yes it better off road but some times on road I wish the stall were stock.
Also better economy
Less heat in the auto
Also what state will you be rego in?
Eric
SA
Mechanic mate reckons my stock converter should be alright (T/H350). Reckons it would lock up at about 1200rpm but put a manual valve body kit in it too.
Lock up at 1200 seems high to me for off road. All depends though on diff gearing and transfer ratio. I do know that my Bundy has 4.88 diff gears but 285/85/16 JT's which are 33-34"
What rpm does your converter lock up at?
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 6:40 am
by Wooders
If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.
My pick (based on the budget etc) would be go defender OR F truck or FSJ.
Eg our FSJ (FullSizeJeep) is a J20, has nice big solid diffs, strong chassis (rated at 2 tonne), has big towing and load carrying capacity...and IMHO if you have half a brain with DIY mods is a cheap platform to build upon.
We paid a piddly $3k, we are now dropping in an AMC360 (cost $500), have a 4" lift (cost $1k), bling H2 Alloy rims (Cost $750 for 4), and will be fabricating bumpers steps etc ourselves. Oh yeah as well as nice big diffs (8 lugger Dana44 front & Dana60 rear) it came standard with a T18 gearbox - which has 6.32:1 first gear (also bloody strong).
We're also dropping in new seats, carpets, stereo & lockers etc....and will cost less than 10k for soemthing strong, capable, practical and DIFFERENT.
But hey I hear the Camry's can be improved
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 12:44 pm
by sudso
Sounds like a sweet rig Wooders.
Guess my "camry" will do me for a while.
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 4:44 pm
by Wooders
I was thinking something like
this would be a good platform
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 12:17 am
by sudso
A tough old classic no doubt but I'm committed now to the Bundera, not so old and a lot less cancer.
Whatdya reckon that Jeep will go for?
Back to the Bundy, I rang Vehicle Standards SA today and told them of my intentions: (350 chev transplant) and he said the main issues to engineer may be braking and torsional stiffness. Cant see it being a problem though, the brakes and chassis are Landcruiser based.
Next step is to complete the application and forward to an engineer for scrutinising.
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 6:36 am
by Wooders
sudso wrote:A tough old classic no doubt but I'm committed now to the Bundera, not so old and a lot less cancer.
Whatdya reckon that Jeep will go for?
Blundeara. Not a bad unit....but its no ute
The Jeep - I;d guess >$1k since there's no donk etc...
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 12:40 pm
by sudso
Wooders wrote:sudso wrote:A tough old classic no doubt but I'm committed now to the Bundera, not so old and a lot less cancer.
Whatdya reckon that Jeep will go for?
Blundeara. Not a bad unit....but its no ute
The Jeep - I;d guess >$1k since there's no donk etc...
cut cut, grind grind, weld weld:=1 Blundeara xtra cab ute
well maybe
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 2:35 pm
by -Scott-
sudso wrote:Wooders wrote:sudso wrote:A tough old classic no doubt but I'm committed now to the Bundera, not so old and a lot less cancer.
Whatdya reckon that Jeep will go for?
Blundeara. Not a bad unit....but its no ute
The Jeep - I;d guess >$1k since there's no donk etc...
cut cut, grind grind, weld weld:=1 Blundeara xtra cab ute
well maybe
Isn't the Bundera a MWB? By the time you've got an extracab, how long will your tray be?
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 2:49 pm
by grimbo
why on earth did you set out to get a ute, then buy a Bundera, then want to convertthat into a ute. Why not just continue searching and find a ute. If you convert the Bundy into a ute you will end up with a very small ute not much use for anything
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 2:51 pm
by scout392
sudso wrote:scout392 wrote:I run the lower stall in my V8 and yes it better off road but some times on road I wish the stall were stock.
Also better economy
Less heat in the auto
Also what state will you be rego in?
Eric
SA
Mechanic mate reckons my stock converter should be alright (T/H350). Reckons it would lock up at about 1200rpm but put a manual valve body kit in it too.
Lock up at 1200 seems high to me for off road. All depends though on diff gearing and transfer ratio. I do know that my Bundy has 4.88 diff gears but 285/85/16 JT's which are 33-34"
What rpm does your converter lock up at?
1200rpm seems low for stock I would have thought 16/1800rpm would be stock.
Mine is 11/1200 but not sure really I will have look tonight.
Scout 345 v8 with the tourqufilite auto was 1600rpm stall.
Eric
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 2:57 pm
by scout392
Wooders wrote:If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.
My pick (based on the budget etc) would be go defender OR F truck or FSJ.
Eg our FSJ (FullSizeJeep) is a J20, has nice big solid diffs, strong chassis (rated at 2 tonne), has big towing and load carrying capacity...and IMHO if you have half a brain with DIY mods is a cheap platform to build upon.
We paid a piddly $3k, we are now dropping in an AMC360 (cost $500), have a 4" lift (cost $1k), bling H2 Alloy rims (Cost $750 for 4), and will be fabricating bumpers steps etc ourselves. Oh yeah as well as nice big diffs (8 lugger Dana44 front & Dana60 rear) it came standard with a T18 gearbox - which has 6.32:1 first gear (also bloody strong).
We're also dropping in new seats, carpets, stereo & lockers etc....and will cost less than 10k for soemthing strong, capable, practical and DIFFERENT.
But hey I hear the Camry's can be improved
Some of the FSJ came stock with a dana60 with 5on5.5 bolt pattern and 1.5 inch shafts
Were they all the t18 or were the t18a, t19 or t19a an option also?
Eric
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 3:14 pm
by grimbo
Wooders wrote:I was thinking something like
this would be a good platform
that would be awesome to build up as a play truck. I love the old FSJ. There is one in Mordialloc which has sat in the guys front yard for years never moving. Been very tempted to go in and offer him something for it. Just what i need another car sitting at home
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 6:53 pm
by dirtyGQ
I HAVE A F250 1979 4WD IT IS CRAP OFFROAD TO BIG NO FLEX AND CARBURATED AND ...PETROL.. I HATE BIG AMERICAN TRUCKS FOR OFFROAD AND THE JEEP IS NO EXEPTION... MY THOUGHTS...
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 7:00 pm
by 460cixy
dirtyGQ wrote:I HAVE A F250 1979 4WD IT IS CRAP OFFROAD TO BIG NO FLEX AND CARBURATED AND ...PETROL.. I HATE BIG AMERICAN TRUCKS FOR OFFROAD AND THE JEEP IS NO EXEPTION... MY THOUGHTS...
lol who says it has to be carby and have no flex yeah nice caps too sport
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 7:21 pm
by dirtyGQ
oops sorry about the CAPS
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 7:22 pm
by ORSM45
RoeDao wrote:they make a manifold called a "Torquer" which is a high rise manifold..... the poverty way out of it is to put a 2" carby spacer oddly enough, under your carby
and machine the plenum out of the factory manifold.. i used to do heaps of them for the budget performance guys years ago before electronic engine management.
its called a "torker". and they are a single plane LOW-rise manifold. made by edelbrock.
i dont think a 2 inch spacer does anything when on LPG. its only to atomise the petrol.
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 7:55 pm
by cloughy
ORSM45 wrote:RoeDao wrote:they make a manifold called a "Torquer" which is a high rise manifold..... the poverty way out of it is to put a 2" carby spacer oddly enough, under your carby
and machine the plenum out of the factory manifold.. i used to do heaps of them for the budget performance guys years ago before electronic engine management.
its called a "torker". and they are a single plane LOW-rise manifold. made by edelbrock.
i dont think a 2 inch spacer does anything when on LPG. its only to atomise the petrol.
Which is good for horsepower not torque or throttle response
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 10:45 pm
by Wooders
dirtyGQ wrote:I HAVE A F250 1979 4WD IT IS CRAP OFFROAD TO BIG NO FLEX AND CARBURATED AND ...PETROL.. I HATE BIG AMERICAN TRUCKS FOR OFFROAD AND THE JEEP IS NO EXEPTION... MY THOUGHTS...
LOL flex is dependant on the suspension & how you tune it. Although in our case I don't really want/expect it to flex too much as it will be a work ute and lockers will help get over the lack of flex
As for carby - well you COULD run it on gas. But I;m planing an MPI conversion for ours
It will never be as capable as our TJ offoad and will never be a rock hopper - but will still hold it's head proud for generall offoad use and slave duties.....If your junk isn't perfecting ask yourself why/where it's not.....
