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towing lifted 4x4's on trailers
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Twisted by Design
This is a trailer a mate made for his drag car....not sure on the specs of it, but am told it is still really light for what it is.....The sides and roof is some kind of fibreglass sheeting, which you might be able to look into using for enclosing your trailer.
![Image](http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/album445/DSCF1727.sized.jpg)
![Image](http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/album445/DSCF1727.sized.jpg)
2012 FJ Cruiser
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
It looks cool, would you have, or be able to take, some pics of the framework inside and underneath? to get some ideas? and would you know some measurtements of it, and what it weighs?
Thanks heaps!
Thanks heaps!
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
What about extending the tautliner concept to the roof?
I've seen dumptrucks running around with what appears to be a retractable roof - a series of hoops connected by fabric.
Put strength into the chassis, then a frame to which you hook all the fabric/curtains. Slide everything back for loading/unloading, then slide into place before moving off. You can minimise height and width too.
Scott
I've seen dumptrucks running around with what appears to be a retractable roof - a series of hoops connected by fabric.
Put strength into the chassis, then a frame to which you hook all the fabric/curtains. Slide everything back for loading/unloading, then slide into place before moving off. You can minimise height and width too.
Scott
Thinks its going to be very difficult to build a trailer that’s strong enough and safe under 800kg if it’s fully enclosed.
I built a trailer to suit a Jeep with drive over wheel arches, expanded metal ramps with no centre floor. Used h/duly axles with load sharing tandem eye/eye springs and it came up to 800kg. If you added a roof and walls too this it would get to over the 1000kg mark.
I would go the soft sides and top part with canvas or similar.
I have some pics somewhere, will try to find them
I built a trailer to suit a Jeep with drive over wheel arches, expanded metal ramps with no centre floor. Used h/duly axles with load sharing tandem eye/eye springs and it came up to 800kg. If you added a roof and walls too this it would get to over the 1000kg mark.
I would go the soft sides and top part with canvas or similar.
I have some pics somewhere, will try to find them
89 Maverick LWB ute, Turbo Deisel, 6hp High Mount, 36" Peeds, lockers etc
GU 4.5, 35's etc
GU 4.5, 35's etc
2.5M is maximum allowable width, 4.0m is max height, 12.2m is max length.
Canvas will add to the cost considerably, and I doubt it will be any lighter, as the frame work top and bottom will have to be stronger, neating any weight saving. I guess light duty frame and alloy, colourbond or fibreglass cladding would be lighter, and possibly cheaper.
Canvas will add to the cost considerably, and I doubt it will be any lighter, as the frame work top and bottom will have to be stronger, neating any weight saving. I guess light duty frame and alloy, colourbond or fibreglass cladding would be lighter, and possibly cheaper.
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Only problem with substituting the shocks with solid rods would be possible damage to the shock mounts due to the lack of "give".shakes wrote:are the shocks a simple job to change rather than the springs??
fab up some gussets to strengthen the shock mounts and have a "solid mount shock" in there as such. then anchor off the diff's to stop the tyres bouncing as well. just an idea.
Simon
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
i already have to change wheels (not an easy job, 44's are bloody heavy! and the wheels are 8 lug!) so don't want extra work like swapping shocks.
Shocks aren't any harder to do than any other 4x4, but still painful.
Maybe a block of 4" x 4" wood from the leaf spring to the chassis at the rear, and something from the chassis to the diff at the front maybe.... I will have a look.
Shocks aren't any harder to do than any other 4x4, but still painful.
Maybe a block of 4" x 4" wood from the leaf spring to the chassis at the rear, and something from the chassis to the diff at the front maybe.... I will have a look.
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
OK, just looked at it, should be able to use a 15" long piece of solid timber or steel bar between the bumpstops, front and rear.
If I trim the pieces to fit around the axle tubes and the bumpstops, it will locate it and stop it from falling out.
If I trim the pieces to fit around the axle tubes and the bumpstops, it will locate it and stop it from falling out.
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Can i ask why u want an enclosed trailer?? the pic of the F150 it seems to have a full cab, so is it for aero or u want to tow something else in it as well??
Not having a go at ya but seems like alot of $$ to spend on a trailer to tow around a F truck.
Using colourbond or fibreglass cladding would look very cheap and would also look like shite, I would just build the trailer then put a top on it when u get some more money.
That drag trailer looks very very cool
Will it have a full door in the rear??
Go to pirate4x4 and have a look at some of the trailers in the tow rig section, they have some unreal set ups in there.
Not having a go at ya but seems like alot of $$ to spend on a trailer to tow around a F truck.
Using colourbond or fibreglass cladding would look very cheap and would also look like shite, I would just build the trailer then put a top on it when u get some more money.
That drag trailer looks very very cool
![Cool :cool:](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
![Cool :cool:](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
Will it have a full door in the rear??
Go to pirate4x4 and have a look at some of the trailers in the tow rig section, they have some unreal set ups in there.
Shane
Twisted by Design
I'll see what I can do.....I will probably head down to the workshop sometime this week and get some more pics.....and hopefully some details for you too....I think it owes him over $15,000.....but you could probably sell it for way more than that!!CRUSHU wrote:It looks cool, would you have, or be able to take, some pics of the framework inside and underneath? to get some ideas? and would you know some measurtements of it, and what it weighs?
Thanks heaps!
2012 FJ Cruiser
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
That is deffinatly the best suggestion on here.andrew e wrote:
The bloke up the road has a soft sided chev C30 car transporter for sale, it has a sloping tray and looks neat. He uses it for a 56 chev, so it would need to be made a bit higher. let me know if you want his number.
Andy
Something that size/weight would be dangerous to tow with a GQ
Allways been a TOYOTA man.
Now I'm old and grumpy as well.
Now I'm old and grumpy as well.
C30's and F350's are rated to about 4000kg. They weigh about 2500 - 3000kg, depending on engine, gas tank size and tray style/size. That leaves a payload of 1000 - 1500kg at best. See my problem? Also, my truck is nearly 7 1/2 foot tall with tiny little low profile car tyres on it, and 8 1/2 foot tall with the big tyres on it. That would put the total height at between 12 - 13 feet high. Quite unstable.HIL01X wrote:That is deffinatly the best suggestion on here.andrew e wrote:
The bloke up the road has a soft sided chev C30 car transporter for sale, it has a sloping tray and looks neat. He uses it for a 56 chev, so it would need to be made a bit higher. let me know if you want his number.
Andy
Something that size/weight would be dangerous to tow with a GQ
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Yeah, I also want to be able to tow a Ford Capri Dragcar, and whatever else pops up. Plus I can camp in it at events. Plus there is a lot more security with it enclosed, people can't see what is inside, or the tools and spares, to steal them. Plus you can alarm it.jeep97tj wrote:Can i ask why u want an enclosed trailer?? the pic of the F150 it seems to have a full cab, so is it for aero or u want to tow something else in it as well??
That trailer has fibreglass cladding.....jeep97tj wrote:That drag trailer looks very very cool![]()
Caravans are alloy or colourbond clading, and they look OK, as does every other fully enclosed car trailerjeep97tj wrote: Using colourbond or fibreglass cladding would look very cheap and would also look like shite,
It will need a full door at the rear for width, and to be able to get the racecar up without having to jack it up.jeep97tj wrote: Will it have a full door in the rear??
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Our car trailer....or motorhome as some people call it
*Full rear door with braced ramps powered by winch for opening/closing. (I am weak
)
*Has a double bed,shelving,240V inverter,axle holder(
),internal lighting with more to come to make it more comfortable for trips away.
*Enclosed with alloy sheets with aluminium angle for finishing edges.
*Side entry door.
![Image](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/Mandyzook/IMG_0068Custom.jpg)
![Image](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/Mandyzook/IMG_0118Custom.jpg)
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
*Full rear door with braced ramps powered by winch for opening/closing. (I am weak
![Crying or Very sad :cry:](./images/smilies/icon_cry.gif)
*Has a double bed,shelving,240V inverter,axle holder(
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
*Enclosed with alloy sheets with aluminium angle for finishing edges.
*Side entry door.
![Image](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/Mandyzook/IMG_0068Custom.jpg)
![Image](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/Mandyzook/IMG_0118Custom.jpg)
Last edited by -Mandy- on Wed May 17, 2006 10:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
mmm... I need 2.3m high, at least 5.2m long, and 2.4 - 2.5m wide. I will leave it bare inside, no fitted beds, no batteries etc, so will probably be similar in weight or slightly lighter.-Mandy- wrote:Inside - 1.960m high, 2.4m wide, 5.2m long.CRUSHU wrote:Thats what I am looking to build, just bigger.
Do you know how big it is? And what it weighs?
approx 1200kg as is now with bed/shelves and complete inside sheeting as well (masonite),batteries etc.
Did you guys build it yourself? Do you have an aproximate cost on materials?
What is the floor?
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
The floor is chequer plate the whole way.
Approximate cost would be about $1200 in alloy and about $500-$700 in steel and $700 in L.E.D Lights and we put new springs,axels,hubs under it as well so all up it owes as about $4000 and a bit.
Rodney...
Approximate cost would be about $1200 in alloy and about $500-$700 in steel and $700 in L.E.D Lights and we put new springs,axels,hubs under it as well so all up it owes as about $4000 and a bit.
Rodney...
DIRT MOTORSPORTS
Haultech Off Road
Mickey Thompson Tyres
Wizard Performance
Fourbys
Tyreworks
Racer Imports
Haultech Off Road
Mickey Thompson Tyres
Wizard Performance
Fourbys
Tyreworks
Racer Imports
I think attempting to tow something this big with just a GQ might be a little stupid. don't forget with a trailer this size you will need some serious brakes on there aswell and that will ad to cost aswell. maybe the cheapest is to buy a flat bed truck and tow with that. Maybe buy a car transporter and hire it out when you aren't using it to cover costs ![Question :?:](./images/smilies/icon_question.gif)
![Question :?:](./images/smilies/icon_question.gif)
That looks good, are the sides over lapped or butted together?, what thickness are the sides, any pics of the frame work inside? Whats the specs of the frame work inside.
Had a mate build a enclosed bike trailer and the sheet he used for the outside was to thin, got huge rattles while towing it at 100km/h.
Had a mate build a enclosed bike trailer and the sheet he used for the outside was to thin, got huge rattles while towing it at 100km/h.
Shane
OK anything over 2000kg on the towbar upto 4000kg requires electric brakes on all wheels, and this trailer will come in under that.
I can't find a rating on my GQ, but the towbar is rated to 3500kg and so are GU's. There is not much difference between a GQ and GU, even the towbar is the same.
I can't find a rating on my GQ, but the towbar is rated to 3500kg and so are GU's. There is not much difference between a GQ and GU, even the towbar is the same.
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
the owners manual when i had GQ's stated 2700kg for SWB and 2705kg for LWB. i don't know why there was 5kg difference, but that's what it said.CRUSHU wrote:OK anything over 2000kg on the towbar upto 4000kg requires electric brakes on all wheels, and this trailer will come in under that.
I can't find a rating on my GQ, but the towbar is rated to 3500kg and so are GU's. There is not much difference between a GQ and GU, even the towbar is the same.
seeing as your f-truck probably weighs more than that itself and you are gonna be hard pressed to build an enclosed trailer the size you are talking about to less than 1500kg you might want to start looking at other options.
even if it could pull it legally, you would be suicidal after the first trip. they are pretty slow towing a light buggy on a light trailer. pulling what you are talking about, you'll be shifting into low range for big hills, cooking the auto, copping road-rage for doing 20kmh on the highway, etc
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
The weight may come in under that but have you ever towed a 4bee with a GQ (or any other 4x4) and tried to stop at the bottom of a hill on a main road??CRUSHU wrote:OK anything over 2000kg on the towbar upto 4000kg requires electric brakes on all wheels, and this trailer will come in under that.
I can't find a rating on my GQ, but the towbar is rated to 3500kg and so are GU's. There is not much difference between a GQ and GU, even the towbar is the same.
You WILL need trailer brakes...
Bazzle
Seen as though you are building the trailer specifically for this purpose you can incorporate two mounts at the rear and two at the front to put an 'A' frame style stand into that fits under a secure point of the chassis. Tie it down to that and it's solid as a rock. I've seen this done with off road buggies in enclosed trailers. Takes two minutes to set up when loading, nice and easy!
Cheers
Cheers
My point exactly, It will have electric brakes on all wheels. It will come in at under 4000kg, so will require it anyway.bazzle wrote:
You WILL need trailer brakes...
Bazzle
I don't see it being to much of a problem towing it, although maybe a power upgrade may be needed.
www.CVEPerformance.com
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
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