Outer Limits 4x4 Board

You may find that there was some binding going on in your setup...

Maybe you just need to grease your bushings or perhaps it's time to think about replacing the front bushings with one of those orbital joints.

Do you have a shackle that has both sides connected on it? or are they two seperate sides? The latter of these two setups will allow greater flex as it will allow some sideways twist too - thus taking the twisting responsibility away from the springs...

cheers

Hey Greg, just going back to 'Redzook's suggestion about the 46" feroza spring, don't forget that you can do a 3/4 setup with them as well....you just need to make a new mounting bracket at the front (or at least use a fab'd bolt on unit like what he used) since it's wider than the 50mm zook unit. And just thinking about it, what size is the front bushing (O.D.)? maybe you could fit one of those bollocks you were thinking about.......

Drewfus wrote:Hey Greg, just going back to 'Redzook's suggestion about the 46" feroza spring, don't forget that you can do a 3/4 setup with them as well....you just need to make a new mounting bracket at the front (or at least use a fab'd bolt on unit like what he used) since it's wider than the 50mm zook unit. And just thinking about it, what size is the front bushing (O.D.)? maybe you could fit one of those bollocks you were thinking about.......

Thanks Drewfus,

I think that would work, but if you check out Redzook's pics (in his member profile thread), you can see that the feroza spring has pushed back the rear diff a fair bit... for me this will equate to a new shock mount location (which was just rebuilt into the rumble camp), plus i expect that there will be some immediate tubbing requirements to clear the tyre at the back too, and some driveline work (spacers or new driveshafts etc)...

I suspect that if the Inner Diameter of spring eyes on a Hilux were too small for the 50 odd milimetres required for the orbital bearing, this will be the same on a feroza.

And just quietly, we sort of have a bit of a theme going with the car in that we are trying to keep it all suzuki stuff - or at least, keep it all non-customized (for ease of replacement etc) - i.e. most parts are off-the-shelf items.

The other issue that i am sort of pushing with the car is keeping the wheelbase stock (let's not talk about the front though), everyone else in the suzuki club down here seems convinced that a LWB sierra is the way to go, but i'm determined to push my little shorty as far as possible.

I think the smart way to do this mod will be to build the chassis mount so that it would suite an orbital bearing (i.e. make it wide enough), then if we find that the binding of the bushings is a real hinderance to the travel, it won't require any backward steps to upgrade to the johnny's.

cheers mate

p.s. hurry up and get yours built

it only moved my diff back 2 inches i then redrilled the perch an moved it back to 1 inch from original location

you could keep it stock if you wanted to

Redzook, was i right about the spring eyes? Are they 40mm like the sierra ones?

the inner diameter(sp)? is that what u want me to measure?

yes the ID, or otherwise the OD of the bush

keen to know also

Did you use the stock bushes? that would also answer our question.

i used stock feroza bushes

to hard to measure on the car so i will measure them when i put another leaf back in



Tim

Ok, try this one on for size, re-using your existing spring pack, take it to a forge company that makes springs (we use "Dumbrell's" up here in Newcastle) and get them to make 2 new 'main' springs, made to your size/length specs.
eg. take your main leaf, lay it on it's side on a piece of cardboard, trace the basic shape, showing where the diff mounting hole is, mark the centre of the front mounting hole, indicating that you want the dia. to be 50mm, similarly do the rear(although you would add a few inches to suit your prefferences, within reason of course...).
Take this basic shape/pattern to the forge/spring dudes, and get them to make 2. We've done similar for our 'street rod' stuff, all very achievable, won't cost you very much, and as a added bonus, you can confuse all the 'knockers' by saying that the springs are a 'standard' thing....

Benifits, longer springs which should allow more controlable 'flex', keeps the mounts and wheelbase st'd, allows you to use the bollocks, and will fit straight up to your existing setup.......

What do ya reckon?

redzook wrote:i used stock feroza bushes

to hard to measure on the car so i will measure them when i put another leaf back in

Slack mate... very slack indeed

ONne of the reasons I belive that grahams 3/4 works OK is the low weight over the back wheels, having floowed a few other vehicles with 3/4 setups they do seem to bounce more than normally suspended vehicles.

Also I still struggle to see the differnece between a 3/4 setup and a "
missing link" type setup .. as the only part in eith setup actually resisting wrap is the the front half of the spring (rear application)

I would prefer a longer spring to a 3/4 as the longer spring will also not be worked as hard for the same amount of flex resulting in longer spring life and the bushing not being worked anywhere near as hard ..

Here's a couple of shots of some 3/4 action on a widetrack sierra in sunny melbourne being built by LJ Extreem and Co.

couple more

last ones...

Hey Greg,

Those are 33's on zook axles correct and Josh hasn't broken anything (Shh dont answer that)

Obviously if he went to lux axles he would go to a minimum 35

bigsteve wrote:Hey Greg,

Those are 33's on zook axles correct and Josh hasn't broken anything (Shh dont answer that)

Obviously if he went to lux axles he would go to a minimum 35

That's true - they are 33x12.5's - but i think that he is getting something bigger - no plans to change diffs though.

greg wrote:

bigsteve wrote:Hey Greg,

Those are 33's on zook axles correct and Josh hasn't broken anything (Shh dont answer that)

Obviously if he went to lux axles he would go to a minimum 35

That's true - they are 33x12.5's - but i think that he is getting something bigger - no plans to change diffs though.

Hang on .. how can this be 35s on Zuk axles .. and its moving over a rock ..

bigsteve wrote:Hey Greg,

Those are 33's on zook axles correct and Josh hasn't broken anything (Shh dont answer that)

Obviously if he went to lux axles he would go to a minimum 35

Obviously he is Sua and cant drive anything hard enough to break Them



you come up here were i drive and show me u dont break runnin 33's or 34 cheese cutters

love_mud wrote:Hang on .. how can this be 35s on Zuk axles .. and its moving over a rock ..

I'm confused?

It must be a trick - perhaps a photochop (though i cannot see a little "NAM" written in the corner)...

ive set the challange now come up here and prove me wrong

also why u r tryin to show me how u dont break
u can show me how well Sua dosent work

Old Thread Revisited

Here's a little update on the previously mentioned wide track that had the 3/4 going into the back of it.

Note: it's currently in it's "last minute preparation" form, and is still being beautified further (i hear rumours of tube fronts etc)...

greg wrote:Old Thread Revisited

Here's a little update on the previously mentioned wide track that had the 3/4 going into the back of it.

Note: it's currently in it's "last minute preparation" form, and is still being beautified further (i hear rumours of tube fronts etc)...

why is he changing it ... it was perfect as was

Pity about the carb troubles he had, that setup worked awesome ...

The rear shock mounts were very temporary, and with the destroyed from club it will be neater (and more resilliant to damage) to run a tube front i think.

I went over to Mock's place on friday night and saw some front guards sitting around so i'm guessing that this next piece of development has already started.

are 3/4s engineerable in vic? do they need to be engineered?

robbie wrote:are 3/4s engineerable in vic? do they need to be engineered?

A club member building up a LWB ATM is getting engineered with a 3/4 I think the regulation is that it has to be pinned for onroad (Pinned meaning you can only free them using some sort of tool)

There's an engineered zook in melbourne with 3/4 in the back. Big Steve is right though - the spring needs to be pinned for on-road driving.

Here's a pick (that i was trying to post yesterday) of a 3/4 being installed with the discussed locking bracket in place to hold that spring for on-road driving...