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Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 2:02 am
by JeSTeROCK
All you need is a bench grinder. Not too hard, you could take it to an engineering shop, shouldn't charge you much at all to grind it down to size
The flange is about 10mm wide and needs to be ground down about 3 mm all the way around (or till you can fit the hall effect sensor over it)
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:20 am
by David_S
mav wrote
with electronic ignition the switching is done electronically so dwell is irrelevant.
This is not quite true. The dwell angle on a conventional system is a measure of the time that the points remain closed allowing the primary windings of the coil to be energized. It is measured in degrees of rotation of the distributor. Opening the points gap reduces the dwell, closing them increases it. The time to energize the coil is critical - too little and the spark will be weak, too much and the coils may overheat. This energizing time or dwell is as relevant to electronic ignition as it is with points ignition, the difference being in the way it is set. On the Pertronix system the energizing time is fixed (equivalent to around 50ยบ dwell angle I think). Other electronic ignition systems automatically vary the "dwell" with rpm etc.
At least I think that's how it works!
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:54 am
by challenger
Quote: On the GQ 4.2 you have to do a slight grind mod somewhere on the dizzy shaft. I think it is a flange that needs removal so the hall affect thingy can slip on the shaft.
--------------------------------
Hang on everyone. Are we still talking about the Petronix unit?
If so, now we are getting to the real facts!
So it is not as simple as first thought. It sounds like you need to remove the GQ's distributor to grind this flange/tab off. So immediately you have to know exactly what you are doing, or else you could stuff-up the whole distributor.
Secondly, you then need to reset the distributor exactly, or else your timing will be out.
Thirdly, if you grind this flange off the GQ distributor, then can you still go back to using points if the electronic unit stuffs up?
Don't get me wrong. The Petronix unit sounds exactly what I need, and I will talk to Phil. But after reading all the valuable comments above, I would want to get this professionally fitted, rather than me botching things up.
Or am I over-reacting? Hopefully Phil will know.
So is there anyone out there who has actually done the installation on a GQ distributor, and is prepared to share their knowledge and experience?
We all want to hear from you.
Cheers
Dave
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:55 am
by challenger
challenger wrote:Quote: On the GQ 4.2 you have to do a slight grind mod somewhere on the dizzy shaft. I think it is a flange that needs removal so the hall affect thingy can slip on the shaft.
--------------------------------
Hang on everyone. Are we still talking about the Petronix unit?
If so, now we are getting to the real facts!
So correct me if I am wrong, but it is not as simple as I first thought.
It sounds like you need to remove the GQ's distributor to grind this flange/tab off. So immediately you have to know exactly what you are doing, or else you could stuff-up the whole distributor.
Secondly, you then need to reset the distributor exactly, or else your timing will be out.
Thirdly, if you grind this flange off the GQ distributor, then can you still go back to using points if the electronic unit stuffs up?
Don't get me wrong. The Petronix unit sounds exactly what I need, and I will talk to Phil. But after reading all the valuable comments above, I would want to get this professionally fitted, rather than me botching things up.
Or am I over-reacting? Hopefully Phil will know.
So is there anyone out there who has actually done the installation on a GQ distributor, and is prepared to share their knowledge and experience?
We all want to hear from you.
Cheers
Dave
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:17 am
by hottiemonster
challenger wrote:Quote: On the GQ 4.2 you have to do a slight grind mod somewhere on the dizzy shaft. I think it is a flange that needs removal so the hall affect thingy can slip on the shaft.
This is correct, on my old dizzy with pertronix ignitor fitted it was no issue, but when i did the motor swap i found that the new dizzy had a ring around it, which needed to be grinded out so the sensor can fit on the dizzy shaft. So i just used my old dizzy instead.
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:20 am
by hottiemonster
Mulisha wrote:LOL @ Hottiemonster do you find car to use oil and feel like it's gona blow up @ the rev range.
Cheers guys.
When the old motor i had was using heaps of oil. i think in the pajero challenge i did, i used about 5-6 litres of oil in 1 comp!!! but the motor was cactus.
With the new motor, i did a complete oil change on installation and it doesnt use any oil and blows no smoke and i still drive a fair bit in the high rev range. lots of people from here can bouch for that
mmmm, love that limiter
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:54 am
by busman
Dave,
Yes the points and condensor can be refitted if the pertronix causes problems and it is recommended to carry them in the car as a backup.
The flange is machined off the distributor shaft to allow fitment of the pertronix kit.
I have fitting instructions here i can fax them to you if you like then you can see what's involved and decide whether or not you can do it. You could always take the dizzy somewhere to get the shaft machined and do the rest yourself.
Cheers,
Ben
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 10:27 am
by challenger
Hi Ben.
If you could fax the fitting instructions to me - that would be great. Please send to:
David Golding
C/- LAWLEX SYDNEY
(02) 8206 6019
Really appreciate your help.
Thanks
Dave
busman wrote:Dave,
Yes the points and condensor can be refitted if the pertronix causes problems and it is recommended to carry them in the car as a backup.
The flange is machined off the distributor shaft to allow fitment of the pertronix kit.
I have fitting instructions here i can fax them to you if you like then you can see what's involved and decide whether or not you can do it. You could always take the dizzy somewhere to get the shaft machined and do the rest yourself.
Cheers,
Ben
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 1:42 pm
by challenger
Thanks Ben. Much appreciated.
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 2:41 pm
by waynejo1
is this right for the patrol it a mitsubishi distrubutor p/n tot 00471 and the pertronix ignitor p/n is 1762 LSCC it might be cheaper to order it from the states even with sales taxs
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 7:45 pm
by MrMaxi
What do people know about cutting and shutting a Ford XE electronic ign dizzy into an TB42 ? Apparently a few people out there have done this and it works a treat, XE dizzy is $45 from pinch a part, anyone had this priced up ?
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 11:00 pm
by Aus4wd
MrMaxi wrote:What do people know about cutting and shutting a Ford XE electronic ign dizzy into an TB42 ? Apparently a few people out there have done this and it works a treat, XE dizzy is $45 from pinch a part, anyone had this priced up ?
the falcon dizzy comes as a conversion that replaces the whole dizzy,as a conv its alot dearer but the power difference between the 3 of them is very noticable . i have run all of them. the ford conv is by far the most reliable and produces the best spark which in turn = power
a
Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 5:38 pm
by henry
Aus4wd, can you tell me where i can get a falcon dissy conversion done mate?
Re: a
Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:40 pm
by Aus4wd
henry wrote:Aus4wd, can you tell me where i can get a falcon dissy conversion done mate?
performance ignition
nunawading - vic
03 - 98723644
cant remember how much about 6-700 ish
Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:00 pm
by MyGQ
what does the moded falcon dizzy do?
How does it work compared to putting in a point replacement?
ign
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:01 pm
by henry
Thanks for that Aus4wd.
Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 8:40 am
by BowTieGQ
It's a brand new Bosch HEI one for a Falcon but machined to suit TB block. It's tapered along the shaft and takes some time to get right otherwise it leaks oil, hence extra cost in making. It is the best you can get but it is $770 inc. GST but with your choice of curve. Now consider the cost of an electronic conversion, a rebuild, a regraph(if on LPG) and labour, the Bosch one isn't too much more. But then, if your a handy bloke the conversion etc is still cheaper and you would still be happy. Having said all that, I had an Ignitor II and Flamethrower II in the Patrol but had constant problems so I returned it. Should have gone HEI.
Posted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 1:10 pm
by MrMaxi
Another option I've heard of is setting up VN V6 coil packs using the vn computer for spark only, anyone done this here and have approx tunning costs ? Apparently this way you can have dual maps fro dual fuel ?
Posted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 8:30 pm
by Mulisha
MrMaxi wrote:Another option I've heard of is setting up VN V6 coil packs using the vn computer for spark only, anyone done this here and have approx tunning costs ? Apparently this way you can have dual maps fro dual fuel ?
Does this give you extra performance?
Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 2:22 pm
by F'n_Rover
Mulisha wrote:MrMaxi wrote:Another option I've heard of is setting up VN V6 coil packs using the vn computer for spark only, anyone done this here and have approx tunning costs ? Apparently this way you can have dual maps fro dual fuel ?
Does this give you extra performance?
Yes. heaps more
- but to get the most out of it, your looking at a dyno session.
dizzies are dog poo.
this is what i'm running -
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=78908