Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Tryed this in mine and it didnt work for shit!!!!!!!!!! so i built a disconnect, that worked great

ordered em tonight, but was wondering if anyone had modified them to accept a pin to lock them back so they can be used like a handbrake?

antt wrote:ordered em tonight, but was wondering if anyone had modified them to accept a pin to lock them back so they can be used like a handbrake?

sorting that out now.

u laser cut some bling bracket?

antt wrote:u laser cut some bling bracket?

damn straight!

antt wrote:ordered em tonight, but was wondering if anyone had modified them to accept a pin to lock them back so they can be used like a handbrake?

I had a setup like this for Tuff Truck last year. It was a PITA! I'd like to see how others have addressed the same issue.

beebee wrote:

antt wrote:ordered em tonight, but was wondering if anyone had modified them to accept a pin to lock them back so they can be used like a handbrake?

I had a setup like this for Tuff Truck last year. It was a PITA! I'd like to see how others have addressed the same issue.

why was that dave?

chris- ya finished yet? any pics of your setup?

antt wrote:

beebee wrote:

antt wrote:ordered em tonight, but was wondering if anyone had modified them to accept a pin to lock them back so they can be used like a handbrake?

I had a setup like this for Tuff Truck last year. It was a PITA! I'd like to see how others have addressed the same issue.

why was that dave?

chris- ya finished yet? any pics of your setup?

no pics as of yet, i'm just in the middle of fitting everything, i puck up my new brakes and detroit locker tommorow. Bargain!

The buggy's all stripped down ATM, put the air locker in the rear and will be fitting the detroit tommorow night. The brake lines are out and i'm bending and fitting the cutting brakes this week. When they are fitted and working i will be able to get the perfect measurement of how far you have to pull the levers to lock the rear wheels, then i'll be able to finish the design for the handbrake lock.

Chris

Roctoy Designfab wrote: When they are fitted and working i will be able to get the perfect measurement of how far you have to pull the levers to lock the rear wheels, then i'll be able to finish the design for the handbrake lock.

Chris

i woulda thought this would vary a bit from car to car depending on how the brakes were adjusted/bled etc

antt wrote:

Roctoy Designfab wrote: When they are fitted and working i will be able to get the perfect measurement of how far you have to pull the levers to lock the rear wheels, then i'll be able to finish the design for the handbrake lock.

Chris

i woulda thought this would vary a bit from car to car depending on how the brakes were adjusted/bled etc

It also depends on wether you have your foot on the brake or not. Most in the US just use a elastic strap to hold pressure on the leavers as a park brake.

maybe some sort of setup like on a trailer pull with cable brakes maybe the go.

Cheers

RUFF wrote:

antt wrote:

Roctoy Designfab wrote: When they are fitted and working i will be able to get the perfect measurement of how far you have to pull the levers to lock the rear wheels, then i'll be able to finish the design for the handbrake lock.

Chris

i woulda thought this would vary a bit from car to car depending on how the brakes were adjusted/bled etc

It also depends on wether you have your foot on the brake or not. Most in the US just use a elastic strap to hold pressure on the leavers as a park brake.

That was the problem that I had. If you had the lever locked on and you then put your foot on the brakes, there was too much pressure on the cutting brake lever to release the locking mechanism...

Cable lock

Mock

beebee wrote:

RUFF wrote:

antt wrote:

Roctoy Designfab wrote: When they are fitted and working i will be able to get the perfect measurement of how far you have to pull the levers to lock the rear wheels, then i'll be able to finish the design for the handbrake lock.

Chris

i woulda thought this would vary a bit from car to car depending on how the brakes were adjusted/bled etc

It also depends on wether you have your foot on the brake or not. Most in the US just use a elastic strap to hold pressure on the leavers as a park brake.

That was the problem that I had. If you had the lever locked on and you then put your foot on the brakes, there was too much pressure on the cutting brake lever to release the locking mechanism...

even after you took your foot off the brake pedal?

antt wrote:

beebee wrote:

RUFF wrote:

antt wrote:

Roctoy Designfab wrote: When they are fitted and working i will be able to get the perfect measurement of how far you have to pull the levers to lock the rear wheels, then i'll be able to finish the design for the handbrake lock.

Chris

i woulda thought this would vary a bit from car to car depending on how the brakes were adjusted/bled etc

It also depends on wether you have your foot on the brake or not. Most in the US just use a elastic strap to hold pressure on the leavers as a park brake.

That was the problem that I had. If you had the lever locked on and you then put your foot on the brakes, there was too much pressure on the cutting brake lever to release the locking mechanism...

even after you took your foot off the brake pedal?

The problem is that one lever alone has barely enough pressure to hold the vehicle on a slight slope with drum brakes. Obviously when you pull on it all the way by hand it's tighter but whatever locking mech you use will release it by maybe 1mm at it's locking point (down the bottom near the pivot usually) which translates to letting the lever off say 10-20mm at the handle/top. This is enough to reduce the braking force significantly.

I'm not saying it can't be done but it I found it a PITA and easier to install a Haultech pneumatic over hydraulic brake cylinder to do my parking brake duties.

One last thing, as the cutting/parking brake setup I had didn't work all that well, you'd end up going through this..... Pull up, apply foot brakes, get off foot brakes and quickly apply cutting/parking brake, realise it won't hold you, apply the foot brake to stop rolling away, then your stuck with your foot on the brake and too much pressure on the lever to release the mechanism. So you either have to turn the motor off and use the gears to hold you whilst you disengage the cutting/parking brake, or roll away whilst you get the chance to remove your foot from the brake, release the parking/cutting brake then reapply you foot brake to stop yourself rolling away. See - PITA

does sound like a pita. guess i'll put the tcase handbrake on while i'm at it

antt wrote:does sound like a pita. guess i'll put the tcase handbrake on while i'm at it

or a pneumatic over hydraulic brake setup like ive got in my buggy.

they definitely lock the rear wheels up

Daisy wrote:or a pneumatic over hydraulic brake setup like ive got in my buggy.

they definitely lock the rear wheels up

I can Supply this set up for $120.

For this you get the Master Cyl,Custom made booster,Mounting Bracket and fittings for the brake lines. It just needs to be fitted in line with your rear brake line. Then you need an ARB solinoid or similar to activate it. Obviously a compressor as well.

got em today (gotta love PP, 6 days to deliver from the other side of the world ), but have yet another question.

it says to mount them level, but due to space problems, it'd be better if i could mount them on a 45 degree angle. anyone done this and had any detrimental effects? i'm pretty sure they're mounted on a bit of an angle in the moon buggies that i've seen

Only reason they say to mount them level is so they blead properly. It is just harder to blead them if they are mounted on an angle. Buggies are easy you just roll them on their side or roof to get the desired angle

That last sentance was a joke

RUFF wrote:

Daisy wrote:or a pneumatic over hydraulic brake setup like ive got in my buggy.

they definitely lock the rear wheels up

I can Supply this set up for $120.

For this you get the Master Cyl,Custom made booster,Mounting Bracket and fittings for the brake lines. It just needs to be fitted in line with your rear brake line. Then you need an ARB solinoid or similar to activate it. Obviously a compressor as well.

this system you talk about, can this be put in line with the cutting brakes to be used as a pnuematic handbrake?
what's the going rate for an arb solenoid thesedays anyway?

Chris

Chris this system is a newer and improved version of the air handbrake in mine i think. Workes a treat but as soon as a turn the power off the solinoid releases the air. So i will be looking to change this as soon as i get through the other things on the list . Maybe 2008

Roctoy Designfab wrote:

RUFF wrote:

Daisy wrote:or a pneumatic over hydraulic brake setup like ive got in my buggy.

they definitely lock the rear wheels up

I can Supply this set up for $120.

For this you get the Master Cyl,Custom made booster,Mounting Bracket and fittings for the brake lines. It just needs to be fitted in line with your rear brake line. Then you need an ARB solinoid or similar to activate it. Obviously a compressor as well.

this system you talk about, can this be put in line with the cutting brakes to be used as a pnuematic handbrake?
what's the going rate for an arb solenoid thesedays anyway?

Chris

Yes it can. It has no effect on your brakes at all. All brakes still operate from the pedal when fitted.

not not wrote:Chris this system is a newer and improved version of the air handbrake in mine i think. Workes a treat but as soon as a turn the power off the solinoid releases the air. So i will be looking to change this as soon as i get through the other things on the list . Maybe 2008

You can run it to the battery so this doesnt happen. Chris knows what these set ups look like as he actually made the first jig for drilling thes boosters while working for Haultech.

Keep in mind its not as safe as a mechanical hand brake though as it is relying on 3 different things to make it work. Air, Power and Brake Fluid.

Also good for holding both rear wheels for front digging if only fitting 1

Other than trusting it to hold the buggy still when parked you could allways find a tree to park against

I found being able to feather the brakes can help you dig in what ever turning circle you want. If you have a full on locked setup if it is to loose to dig any further you can't just creep 6 inches forward and go again you have to turn the brakes off go forward and put them back on again.

Rhett wrote:I found being able to feather the brakes can help you dig in what ever turning circle you want. If you have a full on locked setup if it is to loose to dig any further you can't just creep 6 inches forward and go again you have to turn the brakes off go forward and put them back on again.

That's exactly what I've found when spotting for moon buggies. As the weight is better balanced, they don't drag the rear tyres like a front engined buggy. However they dig like a mofo - often they just dig a hole though. You need to be able to release the brakes and roll forward a bit if you're not making any progress.