Wobble solutions.

[its aford not a nissan]

i just got rid of my wobble fitted drop boxes still there, replaced all front bushes still there, removed 1 shim from bottom of both swivel hubs and guess what ITS GONE nice and smooth now

[sudso]

The radius arm angle doesn't change if you use after market arms. The angle may look different because of the different arm shape, but the only way to reduce the angle is to lower the mounting point, hence drop boxes.

I was talking about the angle of the Radius arm stud entry to the brackets on the chassis with the bushes each side. The aftermarket (eg: Snake Racing) arms rectify the angle so the stud is in line with the holes in the brackets so the pressure on the bushes is even all the way around them at static ride height. Helps with articulation. Drop boxes do the same thing but you can use your standard arms instead as you obviously did and that pretty much fixed the problem you said.
cheers

[Vulcanised]

i recently got a MAJOR wobble in mine..... was ok when i put 3rd's arms on.... it actually improved the small amount of shake or wobble i had with the 35's on it. I put 38" Creepys on it on big offset rims, and it wobbles like a biatch at around 50kph..... if i accelerate hard i can drive through it and it stops at about 70kph. Over 80 (on my speedo... it would be doing more) the whole vehicle shakes badly..... i'm not sure if bad wheel balance can cause this to happen. I noticed the other day when i was under the vehicle that the front diff needs to be re-aligned, the radius arms aren't pointing straight forward, maybe this can be a cause? The only real difference on the vehicle now to when it was "pre-wobble" is the rim offset. I know bias ply tyres can be a drama..... but as i said, i can drive through it to a degree.

[Nelso]

Offset rims increase the radius of your steering geometry, therefore its harder to control the wobble. Larger diameter / heavier tyres are also harder to control. You've got to remember everything was designed for 31" or smaller tyres so we are overloading the steering components to the sh1thouse.

Its not a good idea to drive through the wobbles as it will just flog everything out more until it gets undriveable, or worse still, something breaks and you have an accident.

The latter will then cause me grief as the anti lifted 4wd brigade will come out in force again!

[Red Rover]

Hi

I went thru all this on the MQ on a cape york trip, everytime I hit a bump, car shook steering wheel out of control to the point you had to stop. Nothing could fix it, shims under the axel for castor, tyres, damper, bushes, checked all nuts, checked wear in steering box, did wheel bearings, swivel hubs everything. In any case the housing was slightly bent and it was said this was the problem so the truck place in Cairns straightened it and shimed it to bring the camber back to factory, fixed it kinda but still there to a small degree. After a few month I pulled a housing from an import wreck, changed the locker and it drove perfect and I thought WTF, but didn't think much of it and felt lucky it drove well (for an MQ). This was back in 99. Anyway last year my Maverick started doing the same thing again and again chased the reason for it like dampers, bearings etc etc. Then after sitting around downing a few beers and looking at the car (beer good brain food) it dawned on me - bloody wheel alignment! Before I took the MQ to the cape I had a wheel alignment done. It drove fine prior to that. The maverick never had a problem until I had a wheel alignment done. Went around the a mates place a measured his draglink, changed mine to the same length and problem gone. I reckon both occasions the problem was caused by wheel alignment. I then took the maverick to another shop to get it aligned, they said very little adjustment and it drove fine. I reckon on both occasions it was toeing in to far. Just thought I would pass it on. The reason I never thought of it was because I didn't think anyone could stuff up toe in and toe out

[Vulcanised]

Offset rims increase the radius of your steering geometry, therefore its harder to control the wobble. Larger diameter / heavier tyres are also harder to control. You've got to remember everything was designed for 31" or smaller tyres so we are overloading the steering components to the sh1thouse.

Its not a good idea to drive through the wobbles as it will just flog everything out more until it gets undriveable, or worse still, something breaks and you have an accident.

The latter will then cause me grief as the anti lifted 4wd brigade will come out in force again!

changed the offset in the rims and got the wheels balanced..... no more wobble, at all!! drives as sweet as now.