Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hence the name Fer "WOAH" za



Goes well...I'm happy with it

ah ok I finally get it now

Well if you know of any one selling one in or around Brisbane for $10k or under let me know

OK, here are the pics (no mudslinging from you "hardcore" types out there ).

As I said, all suspension and tyre size is stock. Only change is Bilstein shocks (rears are about 1.5" longer extension than factory shocks, but they weren't a special order)

Both wheels in the ditch were only just touching the ground - there was a bit of see-sawing going on as I got out to take the pics.

Ok , here's mine , not as good as you guys ( Old Pic's ) must get out and take some pose Pic's

Flex-Off !!










Edit : Is that better Andy ??

I had me worried for a sec their Andrew , thought those ramp pic's were going to load up and put us all to shame , great pic's

Andy wrote:I had me worried for a sec their Andrew , thought those ramp pic's were going to load up and put us all to shame , great pic's

Geez....I forgot about those

Nice Hilux flex shots Besty!

Andy, what have you done to the rear of yours?

Is this better David....'standard' Feroza flex

Yep! How long have you owned it for, and was it stock when you bought it??

Kriky Besty , what sort of shackles are they

murcod wrote:Nice Hilux flex shots Besty!

Andy, what have you done to the rear of yours?

Revolvers and big fat yellow shocks

murcod wrote:Yep! How long have you owned it for, and was it stock when you bought it??

I bought it in 1994 from Grand Nissan (South Rd, Reynella)

Stock standard....came with Bocar Alloy Bar and 2 Narva Driving lights.

Andy wrote:Kriky Besty , what sort of shackles are they

Standard

They're just not attached to the chassis !!
3/4 elliptical

Wheel travel & flex is great but give me diff locks anytime.

Le0n wrote:Wheel travel & flex is great but give me diff locks anytime.

Ahhhh, but one you can have- the other you can't.

Nothing $5 of mig wire can't fix

Andy wrote:Ok , here's mine , not as good as you guys ( Old Pic's ) must get out and take some pose Pic's

Ok I have to ask...is that just standard suspension? Excuse my stupidity with this question.

Not on Andy's. He has similar lift to me, 2-2.5" Suspension lift, 2" Body lift.

He is also running a Revolver shackle. Basically, the shackle has a hinge in the middle of it so that the shackle opens up more when a tyre drops. Gives a lot more down travel and you have to make sure your shocks can handle it.

Not legal unless you can pin it closed whilst on the road (search for Climax Shackles, or have a look at www.bigballsoffroad.com.au) and get it engineered.

Ferwoaza wrote:Not on Andy's. He has similar lift to me, 2-2.5" Suspension lift, 2" Body lift.

He is also running a Revolver shackle. Basically, the shackle has a hinge in the middle of it so that the shackle opens up more when a tyre drops. Gives a lot more down travel and you have to make sure your shocks can handle it.

Not legal unless you can pin it closed whilst on the road (search for Climax Shackles, or have a loo

at www.bigballsoffroad.com.au) and get it engineered.

Thanks for that info. Hopefully will be checking one out over the weekend

Some buying tips for Feroza's:

Pay particular attention to any noises from the gearbox, and check out what the shifts are like when cold. Rev it right out in second gear to check for noise too.

With the aircon (being Queensland I'd imagine all Ferozas have it) make sure you run it for a good 15 min. I got caught out with mine- the aircon works fine for 5-10min and then cuts out.

Check the power steering pulley to make sure it's tight and doesn't wobble with the engine idling. They have a habit of working loose.

Check the wheels for any looseness. Mine had a shagged wheel bearing and the wheel would wobble all over the place.

Any other tips guys??

Go to the passenger side front wheel. Grab it on the left and right with both hands (facing the wheel) and see if it moves when pushing with left, pulling with right and vice versa. If it has excessive movement, Idler arm is probably stuffed...around $300+ for a new one.

Rust...look everywhere, lift up the carpet where you can (back especially).

Oil leaks, climb under it, look for leaks near the powersteering box (if it has it), leaks coming from gearbox, xfercase, diffs, engine etc.

Check the level of the engine oil. If it's low could be burning oil (possible future engine issues..).

Check the exhaust especially from the engine to the catalytic converter for cracks..

Have someone drive behind you when you test drive it looking for smoke. It shouldn't pull left or right when braking hard.

Lock the hubs in, make sure it is smooth. Put it in 4wd high and 4wd low range, take it for a quick test on dirt or grass (don't do it on road in 4wd and hubs locked in...can in 2wd). Make sure 4wd is working and is not too hard to engage.

It should idle at around 800-900rpm when sitting in neutral.

Keep an eye out for sand in the carpet...could have been driven on beaches and can lead to rust issues.

Last but not least IF YOU ARE SERIOUS ABOUT THE CAR, GET A PROPER INSPECTION DONE ON IT, RACQ should be able to do them for a fee of $100 or so...worth it in the long run by far!

Thanks for the tips guys, they are GREAT!!!! I will have the guys read these before we look at anything

heyoldgal... also... make sure u get the vin ## an look it up.... make sure its not totaled an reconstructed or anything.. an if it is... see how much they are askin for it... should be alot less compared to a rig that has not been wrecked yet... ask about it's history.. an if it has been wrecked.. make sure its frame has NOT been bent.. cuz once any frame is bent.. its NEVER the same again....

With the exhaust manifolds, they do crack. A lot of Ferozas have extractors fitted for that reason. You won't be able to tell for sure if there are cracks unless you take the heatshield off- mine's cracked but not too badly.

Replacement factory manifolds are around $340. Extractors are from $160-$300.

With your insurance to try these guys out for a quote : www.dgainsurance.com.au . I recently swapped over to them as allow any mods, my old company wouldn't allow extractors.

Don't worry too much if there is a fuel smell inside, it's an easy fix.

Well I went and looked at a car on the weekend....definately not buying that one. As we arrived the guy was filling it with oil....not a good sign!!! He wanted $11,000.00 for it and it wasn't worth looking at, had no air for starters and was in really bad shape. Oh well I had a drive of it to find out what they are like and comfort wise it was good, the seats were nice to sit in and on the road it felt good. For a 1.6 though it was in dire need of a tune or something, my corolla has more get up and go than it. I will keep looking!!

Your Corolla will have more get up and go, Remember your pulling a lot more weight in the Feroza.

Le0n wrote:Your Corolla will have more get up and go, Remember your pulling a lot more weight in the Feroza.

QLDGAL may have an early '70's model Corolla!? A late model one should easily out accelerate a Feroza though as Leon said.

The valve clearances in Ferozas are set manually and need to be done at regular intervals- a rattly engine (like mine was) is a sign they need adjusting. The ignition timing is also set manually and not by the EFI. Both of those being out could cause power loss.

$11000 should get you a really good Feroza- are you only looking at wide tracks- or both?

I found a lot of "dogs" when I was looking- one had a perspex rear window fitted (very badly with big gaps to let water in!) The dealer claimed this was common for Ferozas as the rear window smashes all the time because it's a bad design! Another had a huge tree branch caught up underneath in a wiring loom and the sills badly dented in....

i have a late 80's corolla but this one was really bad, the timing was out in it etc. I think for $10k I can get something way better than that with air!

For 10k you can get mine with air