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Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 5:50 pm
by A1
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Now I guess you will whinge that it takes too long for the pics to come up ;)

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 5:58 pm
by professor
Thanks A1

Standard kit DIYW $800 do it yourself welding

custom kit $800 +

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 6:01 pm
by -Scott-
A1 wrote:Now I guess you will whinge that it takes too long for the pics to come up ;)
Only the first one - it's too freakin' large to fit the screen! :x How about resizing it smaller, then perhaps explaining which parts of the brackets are related to the X-link, and which parts to (what appears to be) hydro steering.

Any chance we could see some external flex pics in the same series?

Scott

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 6:07 pm
by Jimbo
I'm happy with those pics.

cheers

jimmy


Ps: How does it drive? What could u compare it to (ie i have a gq)

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 6:10 pm
by jeep97tj
:? :? :? got me stuffed how it works pics are to close, got any pics that has the whole set up in one pic?? or even a drawing??

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 6:10 pm
by professor

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 6:14 pm
by professor
Jimbo wrote:I'm happy with those pics.

cheers

jimmy


Ps: How does it drive? What could u compare it to (ie i have a gq)
Drives well considering its on 39.5 I can still run the normal roads at normal speed and its not scary.

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 6:15 pm
by professor

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 7:26 pm
by Brett S
diy welding.
looks very heavy.

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 7:53 pm
by Slunnie
Tricky! Why wouldn't you just pull a bolt from 1 of the radius arms or has it something to do with equalising the forces from braking/accelerating?

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 8:33 pm
by Reddo
saw this at TT and it is a clever solution to the problem of getting increased articulation without losing originality in handling characteristics, strength and retaining other design features .

PS Removing a bolt from the radius arms is risky. Even drilling the bushes creates crappy handling - I know I tried it!.

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 9:28 pm
by just cruizin'
professor wrote: there is contact with the diff but at no time is it a concern.
No Engineer I know would not be concerned with this sort of contact.
professor wrote:This system still retains all the correct geometry for road use and in the setup in installation you can adjust the caster to suit a larger lift no more need for caster correction plates!
What happens if you change your suspension height, from your pics I cant see any adjustment post fitment.
professor wrote:Also the cross-link fits in nice and low keeping your COG low (no more big lifts to fit everything in)
Greatly increasing unsprung weight, not ideal.
professor wrote:The mounting of the pivot point is crucial it must be strong as it is now the bearer of all the torque that the front can deliver having said that the cross link distributes the torque evenly to both radius arms meaning there is no twisting of the chassis under load from one radius arm. Breaking is the same both arms share the load even with one wheel totally off the ground.
Load is distributed across both arms in normal setup, torque is applied to the diff housing and unless they twist this load would be applied to both arms, if anything this setup would apply more load to the arm that would be pressing against the diff housing assuming one wheel in the air.

I'm not bagging this product, just constuctive critisism. Yes it would improve flex, that is a given but by how much. Would have been good to see the Hilux in 4WDM flex up with the standard 80 setup and again with the 'X' arm. If the cost is $800 installed and it gives an extra couple of inches travel it may be worth it. But like Drop Shackles I would need to see the dynamics in application to be convinced.

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 10:59 pm
by professor
just cruizin' wrote:
professor wrote: there is contact with the diff but at no time is it a concern.
No Engineer I know would not be concerned with this sort of contact.
professor wrote:This system still retains all the correct geometry for road use and in the setup in installation you can adjust the caster to suit a larger lift no more need for caster correction plates!
What happens if you change your suspension height, from your pics I cant see any adjustment post fitment.
professor wrote:Also the cross-link fits in nice and low keeping your COG low (no more big lifts to fit everything in)
Greatly increasing unsprung weight, not ideal.
professor wrote:The mounting of the pivot point is crucial it must be strong as it is now the bearer of all the torque that the front can deliver having said that the cross link distributes the torque evenly to both radius arms meaning there is no twisting of the chassis under load from one radius arm. Breaking is the same both arms share the load even with one wheel totally off the ground.
Load is distributed across both arms in normal setup, torque is applied to the diff housing and unless they twist this load would be applied to both arms, if anything this setup would apply more load to the arm that would be pressing against the diff housing assuming one wheel in the air.

I'm not bagging this product, just constuctive critisism. Yes it would improve flex, that is a given but by how much. Would have been good to see the Hilux in 4WDM flex up with the standard 80 setup and again with the 'X' arm. If the cost is $800 installed and it gives an extra couple of inches travel it may be worth it. But like Drop Shackles I would need to see the dynamics in application to be convinced.
Why would an engineer be concerned???? they dont have to look that far into it. if it doesn't affect the handling and its strong who cares. hell they engineer 5 links :roll:

no adjustment as i said in the setup(setup the correct caster for the chosen hight in the instalation) set and forget

unsprung weight is not a concern for what the product is intended.( This is a for off road use only!!!) or get it engineered.

The load as you speak would only happen in extream cases(full flex greater than 30" of travel) try doing that with the standard setup i bet the rubber bushes say no to that.

$800+freight. fitting is extra so is a custom setup.a setup Like mine.


at the end it worked out to be the best option.

the problem i first had was an a frame in the front, upset the steering and handling i needed good handling on road.

a 5 link bound up worse than a standard setup and was still crap on road.

and a 3 link with a panard would not fit (rig too tall) tall 4bys suck.

i kept the drivability and i still have flex.

it works what else can i say!!

Chad

Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 11:30 am
by droopypete
professor wrote: it works, what else can i say!!

Chad
Nothing else to say realy,
good to see people thinking outside the square, that is how this country was forged :armsup:
Peter.

X link Vs 5 Link

Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 12:15 pm
by GETNHI
HI all.I am about to do a SAS in my Hilux. Could we have a comparo on X link and 5 LInk front ends, including the plusses and minuses for both setups.Looking forward to hearing everyone's ideas.

Re: X link Vs 5 Link

Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 1:02 pm
by professor
GETNHI wrote:HI all.I am about to do a SAS in my Hilux. Could we have a comparo on X link and 5 LInk front ends, including the plusses and minuses for both setups.Looking forward to hearing everyone's ideas.
In my opinion there is no comparison. apples and oranges

there are alot of mods for a 5 link!
new links new brakets heaps of welding alot of time. still binds up in the joints. metal to metal in the link rod ends


no majour mods with the cross link
all work done on the diff.some welding and some cutting.

Chad

Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 8:01 pm
by justinC
YUP, Just take a look at the resultant pics of the flex.
If you could get THAT degree of Flex from an IFS lowlux at standard ride height AND good road manners, then I'd eat my RR's crownwheel AND pinion, with mash and broccoli...

What a simple and effective system.

IF I had a 'lux, I would probably use it. Shame on all who 'poo- poo' someones inventiveness and efforts.

Keep up the 'thinking outside the square.'


JC

Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 10:35 pm
by jimbo jones
Image
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Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 10:41 pm
by jimbo jones
how much to have this fitted to an 80 series

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:26 am
by professor
jimbo jones wrote:how much to have this fitted to an 80 series
$800+fitting

Fitting Starts at $200 depending on what is needed(custom or not)and location of fitting.

Chad

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:06 am
by Modified Toy
How much for the custom front arms?

X Link

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:13 am
by GETNHI
It does look and work great Chad. How much for the whole front end including coil overs, arms etc. Thanks.

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:29 am
by Jimbo
Gee such a simple concept and seems to work great!!! I'm impressed.

The last set of pictures explain the setup a lot better than the first close up ones!!

Jimmy

X link

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:01 am
by justinshere
professor wrote:Thanks A1

Standard kit DIYW $800 do it yourself welding

custom kit $800 +
Hey,

What are some of the specs for the "standard kit"?
eg. lengths and what do u get for ur 800?

Cheers

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:05 am
by professor
Modified Toy wrote:How much for the custom front arms?

Re: X link

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:11 am
by professor
justinshere wrote:
professor wrote:Thanks A1

Standard kit DIYW $800 do it yourself welding

custom kit $800 +
Hey,

What are some of the specs for the "standard kit"?
eg. lengths and what do u get for ur 800?

Cheers
Standard kit means 80 series/ patrol off the shelf rig.

you get the crosslink and all components to setup a standard rig.

Chad

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:12 am
by hokey
So does this setup still use a panhard?

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:19 am
by professor
hokey wrote:So does this setup still use a panhard?
Yes thats correct.

X link

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:22 am
by justinshere
professor wrote:
hokey wrote:So does this setup still use a panhard?
Yes thats correct.

Does the panhard have to move or does it stay put?

Re: X link

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:30 am
by professor
justinshere wrote:
professor wrote:
hokey wrote:So does this setup still use a panhard?
Yes thats correct.

Does the panhard have to move or does it stay put?


It stays where it is :cool: for a standard setup.