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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:08 pm
by baddboy
Like I said I value your opinion. What makes you say what you have said? Have you driven a vehicle with them fitted?
I disagree with your comments.
They are different to drive on the road if you have a rear locker, but not anything you would notice unless you power on around a slow speed corner. The biggest benefit would be that you are able to steer them offroad and you always have the benefit of them.
Its horses for courses granted and I agree that if its a daily driver and you don't do so much offroad then an air locker is the way to go. But if you want bullet proof reliability (no air leaks etc) ,you want to steer obstacles with locked wheels, and you always want the benfit then detroits are a very option. I can only recommend true detroits as I havent used other brands.
At the end of the day it comes down to getting out in the bush and having fun. Lots of stuff works, and if you like it use it. Apologies if I have put this thread slightly of the track.
Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:33 pm
by dbongard
baddboy wrote:Like I said I value your opinion. What makes you say what you have said? Have you driven a vehicle with them fitted?
I disagree with your comments.
See, this is why I rarely post.
I have driven both types in Australia and at places like Moab, Utah, but I work for ARB so anything I say against the competition is going to sound like salesmanship.
I would encourage you to seek the opinion of successfull off-road and rock crawling competitors out in the world and ask them what they run and why. Even daily driving aside there is a very-very big difference between them.
Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:36 pm
by baddboy
Lets agree to disagree
Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:37 pm
by turps
I think it would be better to atleast get of the gas for a sec, engage locker, then tramp it agian.
I have been in winch challenge /OBC cars and yes they engage when they are very much on the gas. But when they have had different wheel speeds left and right they get off the gas engage them, then go for it.
Some cars may have the R&P, axle, gearbox, strengh to take this kind of punishment. But sooner or later something will break. Thats is alot of stress being put into the drive train.
Oh and as shorty40 said. If you pay $1200 for something no point in not using it. It also saves alot stress going to the rest of the car.s draivetrain. Oh and there not that strong unlocked (prob still as strong as fact though), well atleast dont like doing burnouts unlocked. It breaks them. But apparently the tyre smoke was good (was a GU).
Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:20 am
by Triangle
Thanks everyone! With a mountain killing 59hp, I won't be doing any smokin burnouts...
I feel comfortable that I have all the advice I need about my locker now and all that is left is to do is go use it... this weekend, I have three hills in mind... I'll be sure to throw up a few photos!
Thanks everyone, even the people who say and do things that I wouldn't dare!
Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 11:26 am
by bazzle
Ezookiel wrote:Sorry to hijack this thread, but it seems like a good place to ask about the lockers in my car, which due to being their when I got the car, means I know very little about them.
I have the same style of Hi Roof Patrol that Mick. has, it came with two switches for lockers, but whilst one is an on/off switch, one is like an on/off/volume switch, which after the initial click when it's first turned, can then be turned a further 3/4 of a turn like your adjusting volume or the like??? I'm assuming this switch is there because that's all someone had at the time, but it's certainly weird.
Despite the one weird switch, these apparently come factory fitted according to the service manual, and the Aus. 4WD monthly, they are standard on this Ti model.
The service manual actually says you should never exceed something like 14Km/h with these engaged???? That seems pretty slow, but one would think that if you're needing lockers, you're hardly going to be going flat out. The other reason they appear to be some form of factory fitment is because there is actually a light in the instrument lights, next to the fuel/glowplug/oilwarning lights, that comes on and says "DIFF LOCK" when you engage them.
Now according to the 4WD Monthly, these are cable activated.
My question is there is a long delay before the DIFF LOCK light actually comes on, so I'd be very reluctant to wait till I need them, cause they don't seem to activate for quite some time.
And they take FOREVER to disengage, whether I'm stopped, moving, coasting, reversing, turning or straight, there is a very long time till they disengage, which at times where I'm about to get back onto the blacktop, has required me to kill some time just fiddling around till they disengage before I can proceed. I've tested that they actually are still engaged even after turning them off, because whilst that light is still on, you can hear the tyres really scrub if you turn tight circles, so I know they are still engaged.
Is this normal for cable activated??? factory fitted lockers?
Where would you go to get them checked serviced if it's not normal?
Nissan lockers are a bit different, use vac to hold on and use vac to hold off. Dog clutch is coarse and requires slow speed to engage , also loads up and wont release easily. So, your findings are normal for the OE diff.
Bazzle
Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:48 pm
by Ezookiel
Thanks Bazzle,
Much appreciated info.
Posted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 12:53 am
by MQSWBUTE
clutch in lose the axle spinnin locker in clutch out and give it the bikkies
best people to talk to are the drivers and navi on winch challenge events there on and off the lockers all the time
Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:03 am
by dbongard
MQSWBUTE wrote:clutch in lose the axle spinnin locker in clutch out and give it the bikkies
best people to talk to are the drivers and navi on winch challenge events there on and off the lockers all the time
Yeah. What he said.
Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 7:31 pm
by 460cixy
MQSWBUTE wrote:clutch in lose the axle spinnin locker in clutch out and give it the bikkies
best people to talk to are the drivers and navi on winch challenge events there on and off the lockers all the time
yeah what was the first part in english are you from newey thay cant speak english
Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 9:17 pm
by TURBO GQ
ausyota wrote:If its in the rear just throw it on as soon as you hit the tracks and leave it on unless you have to a sharp Uturn or somthing.
If in the front just turn on as needed and just go steady when switching it on and you will be fine.
this is also my method
rear on all time, except turning and
front on as u need, aslong as wheels a faceing and traveling same speed.
Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 10:52 am
by nzdarin
Stick the rear in basically at the start of a stage and the front goes in and out to suit the terrain. The front isn't used a lot but when it is, it is vital. I've put the front locker in at full throttle in 1st high (auto) while powering into an unexpected bog. (due to Navi running the stage I was operating lockers) It makes a hell of a crunch but the locker handles it. I do however used weak crappy AVM or Superwinch hubs so that they break before anything else. Unfortunately I broke one a while ago and didn't get around to replacing it so had a factory hub on. No suprises that the next thng to go was the CV.
Obviously what we do in comps isn't reconmended if you want a long trouble free life but it does prove what products will actually handle.
Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 4:35 pm
by MQSWBUTE
460cixy wrote:MQSWBUTE wrote:clutch in lose the axle spinnin locker in clutch out and give it the bikkies
best people to talk to are the drivers and navi on winch challenge events there on and off the lockers all the time
yeah what was the first part in english are you from newey thay cant speak english
ya from canberra i would not talk to much
