Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I believe the Snake Racing arms retain the ability to continue using you r front sway bar?

I think you are correct, but they are quite a bit more expensive also.

Peter K.

They are $1400 and you can run your swaybar but mine rubbed on the dirveshaft when I fitted it so I took it back off again. Probably wouldn't happen with a 5" lift though. All that's needed is a slight adjustment (ie heat and bend) of the swaybar but its good enough with the shocks turned up a bit stiffer without it. Also don't know whether heating the spring steel will stuff it or not?

Peter's on the money though with his advise. Either drop boxes, drop radius arms or a five link is the only the way to sort out your front end. The first two being the best option on road.

Ok, so i'm doing a bit of searching and found this post to be the most helpful.... I got the dreaded death wobbles up at approx 70km/h and am trying to eliminate it

Few details on the vehicle,
- LWB patrol with 6" spring lift.
- 35's on 15x10 rims. Wrangler MTR's
- Draglink is only 6mths old and not done much work
-

Never had the death wobbles before I changed these things:
- Had 3rds arms, now have drop boxes with standard arms(NEW, genuine nissan slotted bushes pressed in, with NEW bushes at the chassis end also.)
- New adjustable panhard installed.
- Chopped the stupid spring off the RTC steering dampner, and put back on the car minus the spring on it.

Sooo, first things first..... I needed to do a full swivel overhaul, so that was all sorted and all preloads and shimming on the kingpins was correctly done, with new front wheel bearings also.(still got the wobbles)

Have since had a wheel alignment done and they said all seemed within spec. (still got the wobbles afterwards) I can post up the specs of the readouts etc tomoz when I go and pick up the paperwork from the old mans place. I don't really understand what it is meant to be as standard and to be honest I don't think they really wanted to know about my issues with the truck or helping to try and solve it.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the next things I should look at in order of preference will be:

1: Wheel balance

2. Check for cracking on the chassis between the steering box and p/hard mount

3. Buy a new steering dampner, not an RTC one!!( I know it's not a fix, just want to eliminate it from the problem)

4. Buy a new tierod(Needed anyways as I'll use my old one as a spare)

5. Check the steering box(&/or upgrade to a GU one if req'd)

6. Start getting REALLY angry if all this doesn't fix it!!

Ok, so am I going in the right direction or not??? I never had these issues as it was previously set up. So I should just be putting it down to one of those related things I I changed in the first place???

I wish I had the 3rd's arm handy as I could then go back and change things one by one and work out when the wobbles started, but alas they're long gone by now!!

Feel free to advise/criticise/point me in the right direction etc

Cheers,
Brighty.

What a pain in the ass.
I went down to 4" coils from 6" in a shorty - still wobbled
Had all adjustable arms etc etc
Only thing that sorted it was getting rid of caster plates with std radius arms and using 4" drop boxes with 4" coils with std radius arms, i never put the 6" ones back in to test it. It was happy so i didnt touch it again!
I was running 35s on 15x10s with big offset and wheel spacers. Took out the wheel spacers and it didnt change at all. Didnt try different rim/tyre combo

You said you have slotted bushes? I may be wrong here but std nissan bushes arent slotted. The aftermarket slotted bushes i put in were the reason i started to wobble. I eventually ditched them for std ones.

justinshere wrote:What a pain in the ass.

You said you have slotted bushes? I may be wrong here but std nissan bushes arent slotted. The aftermarket slotted bushes i put in were the reason i started to wobble. I eventually ditched them for std ones.

Hey Justin,

The slotted ones I got are actually genuine from nissan(i went in and bought them myself) but they are originally from a GU I think. But for what it's worth GQ & GU are much of a muchness in that department.

I'm sorta leaning towards it being the castor thats wrong with it, but tryng to get someone that actually knows what they are doing and also that wants to try and help rectify the problem is REALLY hard to find here on the coast!! If you know anyone, let me know.... please

Mate, try different tyres & wheels - swap them with a mate if you can.

15x10 is a big wheel and increases the 'scrub radius' dramatically - which is something that you need to avoid. Keep in mind also that a tyre is balanced without the weight of the car on it. If the tyre has been driven at low pressures then this can cause belt shifting and other problems - which will not show up as a balance problem on a balancer - only when your driving the car. Tyre manufacturers do not recommend letting tyre pressures down because of the damage that it can cause to the tyre.

So swap them & see how you go.

Peter K.

bowtie landie wrote:Mate, try different tyres & wheels - swap them with a mate if you can.

15x10 is a big wheel and increases the 'scrub radius' dramatically - which is something that you need to avoid. Keep in mind also that a tyre is balanced without the weight of the car on it. If the tyre has been driven at low pressures then this can cause belt shifting and other problems - which will not show up as a balance problem on a balancer - only when your driving the car. Tyre manufacturers do not recommend letting tyre pressures down because of the damage that it can cause to the tyre.

So swap them & see how you go.

Peter K.

Cheers Peter,

Sorry, I forgot to add in that I've swapped them over with another set of 35's on 15x8 rims and had the exact same effect. I may be able to go back to a set of 33's on 15x8's this weekend if I have to. May just try that to eliminate that possibility.