Outer Limits 4x4 Board

that looks so good man. YOu could easily sell them for what kaymar is charging!

What sort of paint did you use? Thats a nice finish.

V8 Middy wrote:What sort of paint did you use? Thats a nice finish.

Black paint

Added the checkerplate and wired up the lights, and before anyone says anything I know my passenger brake light isn't working noticed it when I took the pics.





Lights on no brakes



And brakes on as well



Also bought the steel for the tyre carrier and nutted out the design.

Cheers
Steve

that really is an excellent looking bar, best ive seen and IMO looks much better than the kaymar 60series bar.

I am going to copy your design if i ever get round to making up a rear bar for my 60

where did you get the led lights from mate?

They're Hella lights, I got them from Bursons, they had them in stock. Do a deal with them though, I got $40 off the recommended retail for the pair.

Cheers
Steve

Beautiful Steve

Nice job.
I have cheated a bit i bought a 2nd hand TJM rear bar with a single tyre carrier on it.

I have nearly finished fabricating a 2nd swing arm for a double jerry can holder, hi_lift jack and a shovel and replaced the crappy latches with some decent ones.

Just have to get it sandblasted and then powder coated

it would suck running up the back of you or being reversed into.
by the way, awesome job, nothing beats home made.

V8 Middy wrote:What sort of paint did you use? Thats a nice finish.

2nd that , looks as good as powdercoat, so what did you use apart from " black paint " ?

It's just rattle can paint at the moment, it'll get sprayed with the gun when I'm all done

Started on the carrier. Not much to show or say yet except it'll take my weight swinging on it if I sit near the hinge. I've decided I don't like the long swingarm so will chop it down and redesign where I want latch, got some plans which I think should work well

As you can see it looks basic at the moment.



Cheers
Steve

do you have a bender or did you get the sides bent up at a shop?

Loanrangie wrote:

V8 Middy wrote:What sort of paint did you use? Thats a nice finish.

2nd that , looks as good as powdercoat, so what did you use apart from " black paint " ?

Can you be specific on the Rattle can please??? As Loanrangie said, the finish looks as good as powder coat so if you could do a brief tech on how you prepped, how many coats etc so some of us can attempt to get our home made stuff to look that good I'm sure it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Can you tell me what thickness the steel is for the main bar? Also maybe a cost breakdown for the bar when completed?

No bender, tha back of the steel is scored with a 3mm cutting disk and then when it is thin enough I bend it by hand and then weld up the score I made i n the back.

The paint was white knight I think, need to confirm, just primered, prepsold and then a few light coats, basically followed the instructions on the back and used the same method I'd use with the spray gun.

Costs so far is about $160 for steel and another $170 for hub, spindle and LED lights. I could have got this far for a total of about $240 without the LED's. There's also a few bucks spent on paint etc.

The main bar is 5mm thick, the returns up the side are 4mm thick and the bracketry is 6mm thick.

Cheers
Steve

Good to see someone else's garage looks like mine. Just enough room for the vehicle and crap everywhere

awesome bar mate looking at making one for myself as well front tube bar. keep up the good work.

Did some of the carrier this morning. It'll be cut off where the pipe is attached to the bar, currently most bits are just tacked on or just placed there.







Cheers
Steve

dinos4x4 wrote:

Hey Deano, where did u buy the latches?

Nic

Sorry for asking a stupid question but what is that sleeve called that goes on the stub axle ?????

MUD000 wrote:Sorry for asking a stupid question but what is that sleeve called that goes on the stub axle ?????

Hub

Cheers
Steve

Made the lever for the latch, need to cut a slot in the swing arm to pass it through etc but it's getting close now



Cheers
Steve

Got the latch pretty much sorted, the handle is not bolted on here so moves around a lot more than it will normally. I'll also put a spring on it in the bar to keep it tight in the locked position so it cant rattle open (unlikely anyway I would think)

And some pictures, the slot under the stud is so I can get a spanner in there and adjust the position if required. The checkerplate is just sitting there as I removed it to cut the bar.





There will be a plate on the swing arm that covers the latch and also the stud when it is closed, it'll have a rubber strip on it to give the latch some tension so it doesn't rattle.



Cheers
Steve

some sweet work there! Looking good!

This site may be of interest....

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoARBrear.htm

keep it up!

Are you going to be able to get to the handle once the tyre is on. Looks awful close.

just cruizin' wrote:Are you going to be able to get to the handle once the tyre is on. Looks awful close.

heaps of room to reach behind the tyre and release the latch.

Yep, heaps of room.

Finally got to hang a tyre on it (31x10.5) Still need to cut the bar holding the tyre to the right length and make the plate the tyre will bolt to. Also need to brace the bar the tyre hangs on and will have a piece of pipe poking through the centre to help line the wheel up a bit like the box section is at the moment.

It was great to see the weight of the wheel made no difference to the latch lining up and caused no sag in the bar or hinge etc. I think it is plenty strong enough and will work well. I'm really pleased with it. Now it's down to the detail to finish it off (almost).

I decided against adding hilift mounts etc as I've never taken one anywhere before and there is always the roof basket. I did decide to leave the upright long though as a work light will go on the top.







Cheers
Steve

Looking good.

Do you have any pics showing how the latch is mounted into the box section?

Dave

You may have already fully welded it but why did you use the square tube near the pipe elbow leading up to the upright. May have been easier to just use pipe (if you had any).