Outer Limits 4x4 Board

460cixy wrote:i wonder how after market 24 splines would go

Maxi-drive 24-splines are very good. When I last checked it was about $1200 for 2x 24-spline axles and a 4-gear diff centre to fit your existing housing and CVs (your CVs are stronger than the later ones). The weak links are then the 10-spline stubs, which are quick and easy to replace IF you break them.

Jacmac axles are slightly cheaper - but not sure about the diff centre.

and if you can get the proken part out of the c.v i still have a diff center with a bit of broken axle in it

460cixy wrote:and if you can get the proken part out of the c.v i still have a diff center with a bit of broken axle in it

NO - if you get an MD or JM heavy duty front end for your current axle housing you will have inner axles which are 24spline 1.24" at the diff and 23 spline 1.21" at the CV. Then on the OUTSIDE on the CV there is a female 1.1" 10 spline, into which the drive flange with an integral 3" stub axle bolts. So there will never been any broken parts anywhere near the diff. If you break a stub, you remove the frove flange, fish the broken piece out of the OUTSIDE of the CV and fit a new stub.

You can also fit one-ten/county CVs which have 24 spline outer shafts. But if you are going to do that you may as well buy the longtracks kit from the US - which is bolt-in - not toyota parts you need to modify. You will still need to get a diff centre from JM or MD if you buy a longtracks kit though.

i know this but the broken bit of the stub can still bind in to the c.v like the one thats in my diff and its not as simple as fishing it out when mine wont come out even with the asistance of a block hamer and punch. not saying they all do that but it does happen

460cixy wrote:i know this but the broken bit of the stub can still bind in to the c.v like the one thats in my diff and its not as simple as fishing it out when mine wont come out even with the asistance of a block hamer and punch. not saying they all do that but it does happen

Well then it sounds like you should get the longtracks kit or a Yota/GQ front, since if you fit a stock 24spline front you will be still breaking inners.

AFAIK Mike Smith went back to the old rangie stubless CVs as he said they are the quickest thing to change in a comp.

it was under some serious load when it snaped and was not the axels fault

ISUZUROVER wrote:

460cixy wrote:i know this but the broken bit of the stub can still bind in to the c.v like the one thats in my diff and its not as simple as fishing it out when mine wont come out even with the asistance of a block hamer and punch. not saying they all do that but it does happen

Well then it sounds like you should get the longtracks kit or a Yota/GQ front, since if you fit a stock 24spline front you will be still breaking inners.

AFAIK Mike Smith went back to the old rangie stubless CVs as he said they are the quickest thing to change in a comp.

You obviously haven't seen to many break, i have seen many, many, centres and standard axles, only a handful of CV's and NEVER a stub/short front axle (CVto hub) in real life, yes i know they break, but thats what i have seen break infront of my own eyes

either way if they do break, you will fill your swivel hub with steel particles and should be a pull down regardless

King pin bearings love steel bits in them

I'm quite certain Ben has seen too many broken Rover axles to remember.

He is saying with an MD center and inner shafts on the early RR stubless CV, the outer stock 10 spline stub will alway break first.

red90 wrote:I'm quite certain Ben has seen too many broken Rover axles to remember.

He is saying with an MD center and inner shafts on the early RR stubless CV, the outer stock 10 spline stub will alway break first.

That's my point, i've never seen one break first hand, CV's yea but not the stubs

cloughy wrote: You obviously haven't seen to many break, i have seen many, many, centres and standard axles, only a handful of CV's and NEVER a stub/short front axle (CVto hub) in real life, yes i know they break, but thats what i have seen break infront of my own eyes

either way if they do break, you will fill your swivel hub with steel particles and should be a pull down regardless

King pin bearings love steel bits in them

As John suggested - I have seen so many rover parts break WITH MY OWN EYES that I have lost count. Most of the front end breakages were on landies with front MD lockers (which is what I was talking about) - so the weakest point was the CV and stub. I have seen a couple of stubs break and I can't remember ever seeing a stubless RR CV break. But most of the breakages I have seen were with 2522s with a maxi drive - IME the non genuine CVs usually break at the stub like they have been cut with a drop saw - the genuine ones seem to explode the bell.

I agree that the whole swivel SHOULD be pulled down - but I WAS talking about a comp situation if you read what I said.

ISUZUROVER wrote:

cloughy wrote: You obviously haven't seen to many break, i have seen many, many, centres and standard axles, only a handful of CV's and NEVER a stub/short front axle (CVto hub) in real life, yes i know they break, but thats what i have seen break infront of my own eyes

either way if they do break, you will fill your swivel hub with steel particles and should be a pull down regardless

King pin bearings love steel bits in them

As John suggested - I have seen so many rover parts break WITH MY OWN EYES that I have lost count. Most of the front end breakages were on landies with front MD lockers (which is what I was talking about) - so the weakest point was the CV and stub. I have seen a couple of stubs break and I can't remember ever seeing a stubless RR CV break. But most of the breakages I have seen were with 2522s with a maxi drive - IME the non genuine CVs usually break at the stub like they have been cut with a drop saw - the genuine ones seem to explode the bell.

I agree that the whole swivel SHOULD be pulled down - but I WAS talking about a comp situation if you read what I said.

Furry muff (fair enough) just the only ones i have seen go are locked with maxi/jacmac axles and its only ever been the CV, never seen the stub , yet