Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Suzuki Viagra wrote:

chimpboy wrote:I guess as time goes by the benefits of doing everything legally are growing on me.

Cant wait to see the Mav diffing out on it's 32"s while Im running my illegal 31"s and kicking yo' a$$!

And I can't wait to see you by the side of the road talking to a cop while I run by on my legal 32s...

Nah, actually I meant everything legal except maybe tyres

Jason

[quote=Why only 1" taller when you are allowed 50% wider is beyond all comprehension.....[/quote]

Increased rolling diameter decreases the effectiveness of the brakes and increases the centre of gravity.

An increase in width has little effect on the brakes and helps stability.

GQ's and similar sized vehicles have been passed with 33's no problem, considering some of the rigs came from the factory with split rims equal to a 32 inch tyre, would you say that 31's on a Vitara would be within the guidelines, considering 215/75/15 (I think anyway) was the tyre issued?

This has been talked about since JEsus was on earth...

And March Next year?? I think they pulled date out of their date...

My Lifted GQ was engineered with 33's ... Bazzle had his done with 35's no hassles..

bogged wrote:This has been talked about since JEsus was on earth...

And March Next year?? I think they pulled date out of their date...

My Lifted GQ was engineered with 33's ... Bazzle had his done with 35's no hassles..

That's cool, 35s won't pass in QLD. No need for a larger tyre on the road anyway.

auto_eng wrote:[quote=Why only 1" taller when you are allowed 50% wider is beyond all comprehension.....

Increased rolling diameter decreases the effectiveness of the brakes and increases the centre of gravity.

An increase in width has little effect on the brakes and helps stability.

So does the fact that normally for each inch you go taller, you increase track 2 inches...

eg... 31" to 33" = 1" extra height.

(10.5 to 12.5)/2 * 2 (only half track is on each side of the wheel but you have 2 of them, so the result is 2 inches wider.

Extra stability from wider tyres.... by putting on taller ones

Of course the lift you need to do to clear them is the big instability issue.


Also, the weight of a wider tyre and rim will also decrease breaking ability, although not to the same degree that a taller tyre would. Rotational inertia is based on the weight, diameter and the location of the weight on the rotating compomnent.

So we should all make our tires smaller and narrower so the brakes will work better and the world will be a safer place.... that's smart RTA thinking there...

Area54 wrote:GQ's and similar sized vehicles have been passed with 33's no problem, considering some of the rigs came from the factory with split rims equal to a 32 inch tyre, would you say that 31's on a Vitara would be within the guidelines, considering 215/75/15 (I think anyway) was the tyre issued?

Stock Vitara tyres were 205/75/15 in the early models so 26.3 inch. According to the sticker no options on mine other than this.

Might be able to squeeze legality on a 225 or a 235/75/15 at best, although you might be able to say that the 16" rim that was available later was on the same vehicle.

However a 235/60/16 is only 27.1 so it isn't really much of an improvement.

Guys and Gals,

I now have a copy of the form (on paper)...
Will be scanning it soon...

Any body who wants a copy just PM me and I'll see how I go at getting it out to yas...

Only Prob is, contract runs out on me job next Friday, will be losing Internet until either I find a job that involves internet or, i get my @ss into gear and get ADSL at home...


Meldge

** Area54 **

I went to Ontrack 4x4 in Moss St Slacks Creek and they want to charge $550 for a body lift - made from HDPE...

They say they have approval for them...

I am looking into buying some HDPE and turning them myself.
The other option is buying Metal Blocks 75mm in diameter and 50mm high, machined finish. Then just have to drill the hole down the centre and get the bolts.

MWB Cruzar needs 10 blocks = $56, then nuts and bolts, my bro' can drill the centre out at work.


Meldge

If you go the metal option, use ally as it is so much easier to bore the holes, its a lot of material to remove - your bro' will thank you.

OK, thanks Area54...

He will appreciate that, I just cant justify spending $550 on something that I can do myself - (with a little help)...


I will see how much more it will cost having them chop it into 2" blocks rather than us doing it, either way, it wont be to bad, might buy a few meters and see if we can get rid of some, for other people who might want a body lift...


Meldge

If you are going to Ontrack, you must be local to logan. If you go to Capral, they will dock them for you for 2 bucks a drop , accurate to +/- .5 mm and square ends (no need to face) just arris the edge. Prolly cant get them parted off for 2 bucks...

Area54 wrote:If you are going to Ontrack, you must be local to logan. If you go to Capral, they will dock them for you for 2 bucks a drop , accurate to +/- .5 mm and square ends (no need to face) just arris the edge. Prolly cant get them parted off for 2 bucks...

Not only that, when I've gone to Capral I've sometimes not been charged for the cutting - seems to be a bit of a luck element though. End up with all the pieces cut for $65 or so, then you need larger bolts as well. These aren't terribly expensive but they do add up and getting the right ones in high tensile can take some time, especially if they thread into the body rather than having both nut and bolt (because this means you have to match the thread.)

Marks 4WD has body lift kits made from zinc plated steel including bolts from $160 (for SWBs) up to $260 or so for bigger vehicles (ie more lift blocks required) and even though I've made up lots of lift blocks for my car and others I am thinking of going there next time for the reduced hassle factor (and maybe better finish; need a pic.) This will be dependent on the type of bolts they supply; I can only ever get the black-coated steel ones which are not corrosion-protected enough for my liking.

Fitting's dead easy on most cars.

Jason

Melge , the only place (locally) you will get long fine metric grade 8 bolts is Mullings Fasteners at Acacia Ridge, none of the local shops stock anything longer than 100mm. Same - no zinc or passivate, just licorice.

PH 3273 8999 - Mullings fasteners

Also the Bolt Factory at Beenleigh may have some in stock, although not always reliable.

I usually go to "Bolts and Industrial Supplies" on Evans Rd at Salisbury - always had what I needed and prices are reasonable. Would be worth a call first.

Thanks guys I will price these up in the next couple of days...

Being a middie I need ten blocks, I have had quotes from other places for around the $350 - $400 mark, but still gotta be cheaper, and maybe even quicker...

Install looks easy enough, specially with no interior at the moment, i saw my car at the spray shop on Sunday - the body is in colour, god damn she is looking hot...

Will probably also need a steering shaft extension - another $120...

What else would I have to modify??? Gotta shift the radiator, or take off the fan and buy a Thermo...


Meldge

HA HA HA HA HA...

I rang Capral, and for 10 2 inch blocks at 76mm in diameter (of the ally with better corrosion resistance) I got told I can only get it in meter lengths...

Not too bad, considering I could do my bro's Ute aswell, but they wanted $196 per metre...

Thats it, I think I will get the Steel Blocks... at $56, already Cut, cant go wrong...


Meldge

You're joking! I went there recently and had no problem, they must have changed their policy, oh well, least you have the steel option.

Area54 wrote:You're joking! I went there recently and had no problem, they must have changed their policy, oh well, least you have the steel option.

Bah, sounds like you get the boss if you ring and the guy that works there if you go in. When I go in to the Zillmere one on a Saturday morning I get 8 or 10 blocks for about sixty bucks.

One time I had a chat with the guy about his fourby, but there have been a few different ones there.

Jason

Yeah, I thought it wa a bit pricey...

I will go there in person this afternoon and see them.
If it is still priced so high, I rang E-Plas yesterday arvo, i can get a 1 metre length at 76mm diameter of UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) Polyethelene for about $65...

As long as I can get some 8.8 grade Shouldered bolts at the right length, you would really need the crush tube, as the smooth shoulder on the bolt wont chew out the inside of the block...

At a metre in length, i should be able to get 18 blocks out, so my bro can lift his aswell...


Meldge

We fit HDPE body blocks all the time with no problems, most of the people don't worry about legality as most of the other mod's won't pass.But the people that make the effort usually don't have any problems!.
If you need a DOT form i have them at our shop (Fourbys 975 Ipswich rd Moorooka 38922766)

We fit HDPE body blocks all the time with no problems, most of the people don't worry about legality as most of the other mod's won't pass.But the people that make the effort usually don't have any problems!.
If you need a DOT form i have them at our shop (Fourbys 975 Ipswich rd Moorooka 38922766)

Would it be possible to do a bodylift by relocating all mounts on the chassis up 2"-3"'s and get it approved in QLD as a Chassis modification?? Similar to what that done to the front mounts on Galah's GQ in 4WD Monthly recently??

I might then be able to have my 3" bodylift legally in QLD?

I would like to know about the option of the Chassis Modifications if any body can shed any light on it.

I have fitted my body lift, using the Polyethylene Bar, it seems to work fine. But it is only two inches.

If you can do the mod to the chassis, maybe you can go higher, that way it would get around the 2" limit in QLD.

In theory if everything else is big, then the bigger tyres wont look out of place.