Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Tim D wrote:Salisbury diffs housings are hard to weld up being cast steel, do some research and correct me if i'm wrong.

Tim

Salisbury housings (cast Iron AFAIK) weld very easily with preheat and appropriate welding materials (cast iron rods or a MIG).

gre, pre heat is very important otherwise it will crack due to shrinkage. You need to heat the weld area cherry red and extend the heat out a rerasonable distances from the weld area. Use low hydrogen rods, cast craft or something like that (TXP will work too), and cool after slowly eg., in sand. Have welded cast many times without problem. The automotive cast iron/steel are easy compared to other types...MIG works really well too with the right wire.

What was this post about?? Maxi's v Nissan. Nissan with diff locks or standard will win every time unfortunately. I own 2 rovers, blown 6 diffs in last 6 months. Love the articulation of a rover v nissan but the facts are the rover is weak as shit v nissan. I would not recommend that anyone buy a rover from my experience unless they got deep pockets. C'mon guys, ego's, sentimental values, looks, comfort, etc, aside! nissan is and always will be stronger for those of us who have a heavy right foot!!

BJ wrote:What was this post about?? Maxi's v Nissan. Nissan with diff locks or standard will win every time unfortunately. I own 2 rovers, blown 6 diffs in last 6 months. Love the articulation of a rover v nissan but the facts are the rover is weak as shit v nissan. I would not recommend that anyone buy a rover from my experience unless they got deep pockets. C'mon guys, ego's, sentimental values, looks, comfort, etc, aside! nissan is and always will be stronger for those of us who have a heavy right foot!!

Blah Blah Blah Blah, Nissan's suck















Even if you are right

IMHO GQ front diff and 80 series rear is the best way to go.

Begezus, get over the Nissan/yota transplants!!!!!

Who wants to see a picture of Maggot with a phucked Nissan C.V on Ellis track??

Maggot4x4 wrote:IMHO GQ front diff and 80 series rear is the best way to go.

do you have this combo in your car? If so i know there is a very slight diffrence in ratio between the two has it ever affected you? or are you not constant any more?

mangie wrote:Who wants to see a picture of Maggot with a phucked Nissan C.V on Ellis track??

I prefer maxi's, had my rear one 10 years and the front about 2 1/2 and haven't had any issues nor broken anything since. Primarily run 31's and 32's though, til I put 33's on 6 months ago (funny, I always said I wouldn't fit 33's in the past. Contradicted myself once again ) .

Yeah, Nissan gear is stronger but I would detest putting pootrol shit on my Rangie but that's me

Trav

Would it be possible to fit complete 60 series 'yota diff housings and axles if you removed suspension mounts and welded rangie suspension mounts onto them?

The reason I ask is that the 60 series diffs are both offset like the rover units......I understand they have a bigger pumpkin and would lose ground clearance.....but could it be done relatively cheaply and would the upgrade be worth it?

There are the purists.

I've got LC60 axles and PAS under my old Landy just to be sure. To be honest, I'd rather have non-rover parts and still be driving then Rover parts and be broken. The only difference between running a full maxi setup for 35's and a non-rover axle, is the axle tube.

Merv wrote:Would it be possible to fit complete 60 series 'yota diff housings and axles if you removed suspension mounts and welded rangie suspension mounts onto them?

The reason I ask is that the 60 series diffs are both offset like the rover units......I understand they have a bigger pumpkin and would lose ground clearance.....but could it be done relatively cheaply and would the upgrade be worth it?

If you have to ask, No

If you are able to, do it

Maggot4x4 wrote:IMHO GQ front diff and 80 series rear is the best way to go.

i dissagree. i'd have a gu front end before i have a GQ.



Will you guys shut up whining about diffs and buy mine. Dana 60 open knuckle front, high pinion, disc brakes 4.1 ratio, And a ford sterling rear, for less than the price of 2 new maxis (3k). you will never have to worry about braking stuff again.

Plus the added bonus of having No jap shit under your rig.

andrew e wrote:

Maggot4x4 wrote:IMHO GQ front diff and 80 series rear is the best way to go.

i dissagree. i'd have a gu front end before i have a GQ.



Will you guys shut up whining about diffs and buy mine. Dana 60 open knuckle front, high pinion, disc brakes 4.1 ratio, And a ford sterling rear, for less than the price of 2 new maxis (3k). you will never have to worry about braking stuff again.

Plus the added bonus of having No jap shit under your rig.

SPAM

Slunnie wrote: The only difference between running a full maxi setup for 35's and a non-rover axle, is the axle tube.

Not true for a salisbury - the diff carrier remains stock (apart from being machined so that it can mate with the locking dog).

ISUZUROVER wrote:

Slunnie wrote: The only difference between running a full maxi setup for 35's and a non-rover axle, is the axle tube.

Not true for a salisbury - the diff carrier remains stock (apart from being machined so that it can mate with the locking dog).

I think he's referring to the fact you can run any centre you wish, by putting on the rover axle tubes

mangie wrote:Who wants to see a picture of Maggot with a phucked Nissan C.V on Ellis track??

It only broke because I bent a steering stop so had WAY to much lock

andrew e wrote:
i dissagree. i'd have a gu front end before i have a GQ.

Yeah I would too but they are lots more $$$

Reddo wrote:Begezus, get over the Nissan/yota transplants!!!!!

Grow Up

One word. Dana.