Outer Limits 4x4 Board

PJ.zook wrote:That trailer really came out great, good work! It just looks the part too, like it was always meant to be towed behind a zook lol.

Will find out this weekend, as we taking it out for its first sleep over

u dont have to answer if u dont want chris, but how much did the whole snazzy build cost u? its bloody terrific in my opinion

D

Big D wrote:u dont have to answer if u dont want chris, but how much did the whole snazzy build cost u? its bloody terrific in my opinion

D

That would be complex to work out.
Tyres and rims were a gift. Thanks Bill and Sam.
Draw bar was donated, too. Thanks Jim.
Some costs were spread among other projects, eg metal left overs on car jobs, tools bought etc. etc.
Galv for floor and sides was just over $100.
The 4wd hitch was $130 off ebay.
Framing metal was around $120, at a guess, as was bought ib dribs and drabs.
Most welding rods came with the welder, but bought 1 packet at $20.
Axle, hubs and springs were $60 from ebay.
Wires and lights, plugs etc were around $50

camper tent was around $500 from ebay.

Everything else was done at a few bucks here and there as needed and when had some.

christover1 wrote:

PJ.zook wrote:That trailer really came out great, good work! It just looks the part too, like it was always meant to be towed behind a zook lol.

Will find out this weekend, as we taking it out for its first sleep over

It was great to sleep in, no probs with over balancing, but will get some support legs, so no body sees it rockin

Set up and pack up was a breeze.

As just a trailer, its been great fer moving the lady into her new place, and a few tip trips, I can't work out how I ever got by without one

yeah i guess the legs will stop the major rocking lol. well done.

heya christover, brilliant build up have enjoyed reading through it

have niggling thoughts of putting together a 5x3'6 camper trailer myself oneday although i'd probably chicken out on making a custom trailer. 2 quick questions along that line.

1) how did you seal the rear tailgate ... just normal rubber strip? obviously works pretty well if it suctions shut!

2) is the tent floor sufficiently strong to have a rail and hinges fitted to one of the long sides so that the entire tent (still folded together) can be rotated up to allow access to the trailer body?

Dodgy ASCII diagrams below hopefully will show what I mean in point 2. They show the trailer viewed from the rear.

_____
-------* <-- this is the tent
|____| <-- this is the trailer

(folded)


-------*-------
|____|

(in use)


..*
.| |
.| |
....|____|

(rotated up to allow access to trailer body)

Sorry about the dots in the last diagram ... for some reason this forum has difficulty showing spaces at the beginning of a line, so had to put dots in to get trailer in correct position relating to tent.

Flipped open tent would rest on guard in your case, or could be propped open with a length of rod or (pro option) gas struts Think of the bling!

Cheers, Moph

clark rubber and purple pig and bunnings all sell various thicknesses of rubber seals with sticky backs. It aint perfect, but seals up better than the zook does

I thought of a swing up base to access the trailer, but decided to keep it simpler. I just access via trailers tailgate. Up or down the door still works, part of the reason for camper opening to the side...A sheet of tarp material acts as my slide, for anything too far up the back, tho I can reach, I like to go easy on my back etc..
Some camper packs have access doors in the floor.
Some trailers have a front tailgate too.

Swinging up is possible tho.
The base is only strong at the points designed to attach to roof bars, tho a wooden floor one would be fine all over.

I was asked for some measurements by some, so I ve stuck them in here, too.

Champion effort with the dimension pics Chris.
I like the vids of Toolangi (medium) too, the trailer looks and acts the part. I bet the club makes you take the BBQ and esky along!

want33s wrote: I bet the club makes you take the BBQ and esky along!

Not yet but thanks for the idea

want33s wrote:Champion effort with the dimension pics Chris.
I like the vids of Toolangi (medium) too, the trailer looks and acts the part. I bet the club makes you take the BBQ and esky along!

I have been the door carrier for Sierras, already

Am actualy thinking of getting a fold up bbq to use for camping and home.

NB. You can just hear Bill in the background of video stressing about his doors that were in my trailer

I made a ooopsy
Truer measurement of width now pictured
I should learn to read my own hand writing

Nothing earth shattering, but finaly got back to the camper project.
Decided on a caravan/pneumatic jockey wheel, for ease of moving it about on rough ground.
And was also very cheap off ebay
I wanted it on the left side, for extra support when tent is folded out. I also wanted to keep it away from the spare tyre.
I'll remove it completely when off road, but will leave it on for local tip trips etc.
I had to be very wary of the wires for the lights, as they run thru the left hand chassis box.
I was a bit concerned about losing strength by drilling the draw bar, but then realised its 5mm guage 50mm box, and should be fine
Next will be some support legs on the rear, for times when campers not still connected to the car.
Only one problem, I now need wheel chocks, as it don't stay where I put it anymore
christover

The support legz have been done.
Not intended to take much weight, just to take the rockin out if I get lucky, or if it gets windy (inside or outside)
And to stop it fallin over backwards when not connected to the Zook.
Most often won't even be used, but got em if needed.
Project is officially finished now, which means probably be werkin on it fer years to come, but all originally planned jobz r done.

Dont mean to be rude mate you have done a great job
BUT
I think I would look at starting another thread soon,

My engine refurbishment

Well atleast before you go on any long journeys with a ladend trailer.
check out the soot

Thanks, good advice and well spotted.
My engine has been stufffed for a very, very long time.
It is on the never ending list of jobs to be done

I use thicker oil and avoid engine braking.
They always stick me at the rear of convoys,
but that may be because of my wind, too

christover

hahaha rofl well spotted

I gave serious thought to photochopping the soot out, just in case I got ribbed, but it was so quiet for so long, thought I'd got away with it

I'm thinkin 1.6 auto from a vit, or start afresh with an old Jimny.

It actually still drives very well, so is probably oil rings or valve guide type issues.

lookin good. Trailer that is

frog engine. maybe do the fix on the cheap for now as she is still running ok. drop head off and do valve guides and bolt back on.

Nah, hate patchin donks, never had much success for the effort put in.
Good excuse to upgrade something anyway

Yeah 1.6 16 valve efi time I reckon

Finaly got around to shocking the trailer.
Lots of opinions as to are they needed, but time will tell.

You'll all be glad to know I used zook parts entirely
Top shock mount is a slightly trimmed zook engine mount bracket.
Bottom is a redrilled zook axle plate.
Was almost same hole to hole, just needed redrilling larger on 2 holes, and 2 new holes.
I kept the original trailer U bolt plate, as it had a better locating hole, and the zook plate hit the springs without hit.
They are stock rear Sierra shocks.
Can't comment on handling, yet, as 1 shock is siezed and the other has no oil in it
Will chase up some better ones later.

Now for a laugh at my expense.
After making up, and being happy with, the mounts on one side, I made up another set for other side.
They didn't work, had all sorts of clearance issues on that side.
After 2 hours of measuring trailer and shox, looking for my mistakes, I noticed 1 tyre was wider than the other..problem solved

WTF?! me thinks that will not work the best. Won't that soften the effects of the shock?

GRPABT1 wrote:WTF?! me thinks that will not work the best. Won't that soften the effects of the shock?

Yes you are absolutely right, but thats my intention.
The rear of a zook is much heavier than my trailer, so I didn't want it too stiff.
Also the shock action is ruffly same direction as spring movement.
I can't weld good enough to make shock towers safely, so wanted it bolted to the chassis, as no where else is strong enough.

I could be all wrong, but thats my thinking on it...time will tell, can always get stiffer later if needed.

So far so good.
Shocks seem to be a good thing.
The 3 bounces I was getting, is now only one bounce per bump.
Trailer is still empty, and no camper top on.
Its not too stiff or soft, I believe it will be ok when loaded.
Trailer is quieter now, too. Springs are not clunking on extension.
Rotation on bushes is almost negligible.
Nothing is coming unscrewed.
I guess we now need the test of time.
Thanks for everyones help, and B4T for a good set of shox.

christover

I decided the slipper springs needed throwing away.
See last pic for part of the reason.
Also they had sagged, more weight carried than expected, and a bit too weak.
The slippers were binding on the mounts, causing jamming.
They were also bent from a little woops into a crash barrier, when T-case siezed.

The decision to go shackle springs was partly so I could UP the carrying capacity, without loss of free movement.
Now 3 leaf, and 8mm instead of the cheapy 6mm originals.
Seems to have worked out OK.
Happy with the empty towing, but have yet to load it up fully.

I have gained a bit of height, too.
I am considering bump stops, just in case.
I can see where tyres were hitting guards, with old springs, even tho I doubt they will hit now.
May go one size down on tyres, yet, to give better clearance to shox, and less rolling resistance causing strain getting of the mark.

Looks like you've done some pretty good work there Chris.

I'd recommend getting some bumpstops on there now though - with the shackle arrangement it's now possible to overcompress your springs - not possible with the old slipper spring arrangement.

I'm sure your shocks are helping, but they just look wrong to me set up like that. I know you've said you can't yet weld well enough to make shock towers, but they could easily be made to bolt to the chassis and run a bit more vertical.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:Looks like you've done some pretty good work there Chris. .

Thanks

Gwagensteve wrote:I'd recommend getting some bumpstops on there now though - with the shackle arrangement it's now possible to overcompress your springs - not possible with the old slipper spring arrangement. .

That makes sense. Was trying to figure out what length. Prevention of spring going past flat is a good idea.

Gwagensteve wrote:I'm sure your shocks are helping, but they just look wrong to me set up like that. I know you've said you can't yet weld well enough to make shock towers, but they could easily be made to bolt to the chassis and run a bit more vertical. .

I'm not totally convinced they will work with the new springs, either, tho they are slightly more vertical now.
But they did work with the old softy springs.
I guess time will tell.

Because You made me have doubts, I thawt I should go do some measurings.
The springs move back, as they compress, as you know.
An inch of compression, measured at axle to chassis, gave just under an inch on the shox.
Very ruff inaccurate measuring, but now I feel better

The spring can theoretically go past flat, tho it would probably rip me mounts off first.
Either way, I should add some bumpstops, and I could get away with using a zook front bumpstop, or similar.

Now to chase some up, I broke all I had already