Outer Limits 4x4 Board

cossie1 wrote:Well I got my carb fitted to my 1.6 Vitara (Holley 180 same as 32/36). The guy who fitted it was a carb specialist and I trust he put the correct jetting, so ...after driving for the past week I can say:

Negatives:
NO power increase in fact I may have lost a couple hp below 3000 rpm (using the seat of the pants dyno)
Slight loss of throttle response below 3200 rpm

Positives:
No hesitation at low speeds
Smoother idle
Less fuel consumption

In hindsight, I dont think I'd do it again or possibly start with a slightly larger carb.

Just my experience so far.

Lol kinda makes me wonder if he bored out the manifold to match the adapter plate. If this wasnt done, you would just have a carb that idles better but with no extra grunt at all.
Worth a check,
Dan

When you instal theadapter its best to hone the manifold to match but not crucial. If its jetted correctly it should be real loud with the secondaries open so loud I thought there was a problem until it was explained to me. People run the 32/36 on hiluxes with good results so its not to small for the 1600.
Ive also had a several "pro,s" tell me how to jet it but alot say they are pro,s but soon back off when you start talking air jets then you bring up aux size and they look at you funny then start on e tubes and they freak out. What Im saying is if you paid someone to do it let them know your unhappy with performance or take the top of check what you have and compare it to what others with similar set ups are running to get an idea what yours should be.
Mine personaly was like doing the swap from 1300 and weber to stock 1600 all over again big improvement.
Nik

thanks guys, the guy who did the carb is adament its the correct jets..

Can anyone recommend someone in Sydney to look at it???

Actually NIK, Im headed to Cessnock in the next few weeks, are you up that way, or can recommend anyone there as well?

NIK wrote:When you instal theadapter its best to hone the manifold to match but not crucial.

I dont know exactly what the 1600 manifold looks like but the 1300 has the 2 throats to match the std carb 26/28-30 i think. With the weber on this created a large restriction and didnt gain any power at all. After the manifold was matched to the adapter it was a whole different story .

Dan

Yeah mate send me a pm if you want.
I do agree that porting the manifold helps but my 1st go at a weber went unbolt off cortina at wreckers bolt it and adapter to manifold no other changes drove out the driveway dumped it and tore the passenger side t/c mount in half. First trip out broke 2 more mounts (young and used lots of right foot). Now I run a bolt through the mount with shock rubbers and washers to allow it to give but not break.
So what Im saying is even without porting the manifold or rejetting theweber made a big improvement.
Nik

For LeftHand-
Who did you buy that Weber carb setup from in the States??
Sarge

Sarge wrote:For LeftHand-
Who did you buy that Weber carb setup from in the States??
Sarge

Hi Sarge,

I bought the weber off LeftHand on Ebay, from memory he got it modified by you himself.

BTW for anyone that doesn't know Sarge is the weber GOD.

Brendan

A BIG outers welcome to the guru himself
Good to see you here Sarge
Nik

welcome Sarge to our big group of confused weber users. You are like a GOD to us as you seem to know everything we want to know about these awsome carbys.

now if only i could get the jetting right using the snorkel. any ideas???

From another post so i thought i'd add it here.

SARGE WROTE

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 2:07 am

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checking the current jet sizes helps a lot . Best thing to do is a "plug test" and check the mixture . Drive the engine at a steady cruise at highway speed , no headwinds or hills for a couple of minutes . While holding throttle position shut the engine off and coast off to the side of the road . Allow the engine to cool for around 10 minutes to avoid hurting the valves and pull #1 and #3 spark plugs . Correct color at cruise should be a very light tan/brown . If it's dark or black the main cruise mix is too rich . Completely white is too lean and can hurt the engine over time quickly . Once the main cruise mix is set you can use the same test to set wide open throttle but you have to be very careful . Shutting the engine off above 5500 is dangerous and hard on it , 5500 revs is high enough to check the wide open mix . Again, color should be a decent tan/brown . Use only the stock NGK copper core plugs , nothing else .

Fuel height settings in the float bowl are critical to smooth response and mixture . IF the float is too low it will create a flat spot between the transition circuits controlled by idle jet size and the mains . If the float is too high it will cause huge problems offroad at nearly any angle . If you play with it enough you will find a majic spot between starving the main circuit timing in the primary and flooding offroad . No two carbs are alike since they react differently to the engine they are installed upon .

If you guys need any help, let me know . Email is best or a link to new threads ...

Sarge
Midwest Performance Parts
USA

All good tech so i might have to start playing with the weber again for something to do

how often do you guys find your weber falls 'out of tune'? just curious as to how often i should really be checking on it... lol

Carbs really don't "fall out of tune" , they are either affected by dirt or seriously changing conditions and sometimes engine issues . If you over rev an engine and damage the rings/pistons then the vacuum pattern changes as well as how it runs or performs . Just average wear will show up sooner or later , distributors are at the top of the list for example .
One of the most missed issues is distributor wear . Here in the States the last imported Zuks are now 13yrs old , so the disty is more likely to have an issue . The stock electronic carbs were metered by the ecm , they also had the capability to mask disty issues . Once a mechanical carb is installed these small problems show up in lack of performance and difficulty in tuning . New cams are also very often installed off-time and out of phase . This one really hurts performance as well as shaving the heads . Once shaved, the base cam timing is changed quite a bit , in some cases they can be off over 20* total . The height of the cam in relation to the crank centerline directly affects cam timing . If you are shaving a head you must run an adjustable cam sprocket .

For guys running snorkels and restrictive air cleaners you have your work cut out for you . It makes tuning more difficult just due to the air flow pattern into the carb's throat . I think someone already mentioned a difference in performance with the air cleaner removed . This is normal, every tuning must be done with everything in place as it will be driven . Once properly set , jetting and tuning on these carbs should not really change over time . A good habit of changing fuel filters and keeping the air cleaner element clean is a must , dirt kills engine parts . Use good quality filters, never use screen-type fuel filters as they allow enough dirt to pass through to plug up passages in the carb and jets . The best overall air cleaner is hands-down the Ramflo from Lynx . You folks have the advantage here since it is an Aussie product . Yes, it can be oiled but it depends on the dust you run into , here in the States there are very few areas that have a fine enough powder to cause an issue . I've seen some of that red dust you folks have, nasty stuff indeed . For those having any issues the K&N type oil is very sticky and works quite well . It's more of a pain to clean but for the engine's sake it's almost always required . If you ever see dirt in the carb's throat you have an issue . Make sure it's corrected right away before it destroys your engine !

Thanks for the welcome, a poster here named Heath referred me to the forum .
Sarge

my son just got back from a historical car race and said they were tuning Weber's with vacuum gauges is this true and would it help

The use of vacuum guages is for the upper class of carbs or multiple carbs . Some engine designs used carbs like the DCNF, IDF,IDA,DCOE and such so each throat feeds one cylinder . These must be balanced and timed correctly, hence the use of vacuum guages .
Sarge

thanks sarge

Just bought a 38/38 weber cant wait to get it up and running, should really go then
Nik

Awsome read for those that are into performance tuning and want the best out of there weber
http://forums.off-road.com/engines/2050 ... 8dges.html
Nik

I wish I could buy stock in eyeglasses everytime that thread is linked
Sarge

Ive read it a couple of times and have learned heaps each time I thoroughly recommend reading it even for you non believers
Nik

NIK wrote:Awsome read for those that are into performance tuning and want the best out of there weber
http://forums.off-road.com/engines/2050 ... 8dges.html
Nik

Yeah i just read that and now i think i might aswell go with the 38/38 if i am getting the new carby as it will be better and will give it some more power. But thats by the sound of it.

Not to turn you off the 38 but the 32/36 is alot cheaper and easier to find I search for months for the 38
Try ebay they sometimes come up in the UK.
All the ford guys I spoke to said the same thing "you,ll never find one"
Nik

I just bought another 38DGAS electric choke off Ebay tonight , lol . There's another one coming up in a few days but it's listed for a Jeep so it will go high $$$$ . Idiots...
Sarge

I'm over mine if anyone got a standard carb they don't want let me know. How much they want for it

Try a 3k Corolla carb Boner59, I haven't had any problems with it stopping on angles or tuning it and it'll bolt straight onto your stock manifold. It's a manual choke too which I find much more reliable than any auto choke
I used the stock carb jets from the sierra carb (parts are interchangeable) but it seems to be running a little bit to lean with them at full highway revs.
Other than that it's the easiest carby i've worked on

Kitika wrote:Try a 3k Corolla carb Boner59, I haven't had any problems with it stopping on angles or tuning it and it'll bolt straight onto your stock manifold. It's a manual choke too which I find much more reliable than any auto choke
I used the stock carb jets from the sierra carb (parts are interchangeable) but it seems to be running a little bit to lean with them at full highway revs.
Other than that it's the easiest carby i've worked on

Thanks a lot i'll try one of them

even tho i started this weber thread and love the extra power the weber gave im now actually running a 4K corolla carby. i waqs lucky enough toi find a pre polution version and it is almost up there with the weber for low down grunt. it does lack a little at extreme high revs but i have done nothing to it and it runs at every angle. the only thing i did was to push some vac hose over the tubes above the throats so it would handle angles better.
the reason i took the weber off was it developed a air leak on the butterfly shafts. Something that was suposed to have been fixed when it got a full reco . cant take it back coz the dodgy carby shop went bust.

Soooo what you are now saying B4t is that a pre-pollution 4K Corolla Carby is almost as good as a 32/36 Weber power wise and is better then one because it doesn't stall on up or down hills??

And where did you get your 4K carby because now i am thinking of going a 4K instead of a Weber mainly for the fact of stalling on hills??

Also does it just bolt straight on without porting the intake manifold and without a adapter plate??

And thanks for changing my mind about a Weber cause to be honest i can't be F**ked doing all that jet changing and mucking around!

the weber is way better if you dont intend on using a snorkel. it will out perform most other carbys and can be setup to handle the side angles quite easily. Its only when you try to set the weber up with a snorkel that it becomes difficult. Webers like to breathe and a snorkel puts restriction on the ammount of air it can suck.

Thats why i chose to go for a smaller carby as it doesnt need the huge airflow. both the weber and 4K carby feel to give the same power. without the snorkel the weber is miles ahead.

Putting a Corolla carby on is simple as! Just take of old carby bolt on the Corolla carb and then reconnect the fuel line, a few vac hoses, accelerator and choke cables and bolt the original suzuki air hose hat to the top and off you go basically. I still haven't stalled mine out from driving on an angle yet. And i've tested it by parking it on some really steep stuff and leaving it there to idle for a few minutes etc. Not bad for a 30yr old piece of equipment

I got a Aisin carby of a Nissan 720 ute on the weekend to try out. I think it was a 2litre engine but not 100% sure. It doesnt look that much bigger than the stock sierra carby anyways so thought i'd give it a try