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THE "silly" question thread

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

Moderators: lay80n, sierrajim

Posts: 242
Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2006 10:24 pm
Location: sydney

Post by hyzook »

greg wrote:Quick Sanity Check Required...

On a widetrack sierra, can someone please note the course that the two hard lines take from the master cylinder?

i.e.
the rearmost (closest to firewall) goes into the rearmost hole of the widget on the chassis... and then the rearmost hole on the chassis widget goes to the back of the car...

while the front most (closest to headlight) goes to the front most hole of the widget on the chassis... and then the hole pointing in-board on the chassis widget goes to the front of the car...

This is how i expect it to all work - but looking at this pic from hyzook, it appears that the prop value is on the front most hole on the master cylindar - which appears incorrect???

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic138 ... =propor%2A
Yes mine was set up wrong so as to confuse as many people as possible including me :roll: ended up swaping around, i actually didn't notice that much difference :?
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 12:48 am
Location: chch nz

Post by gomulletgo »

Thanks nicbeer for answering my last question :D

Next question: I have an 8valve escudo that I recently bought, it runs alright. The problem is there is a warning light that flashes on the dash, it looks like a little picture of an engine, it flashes like so:

long pause
flash
short pause
flash
flash
(then repeats)

I don't want to continue running the engine while it is flashing, as I don't want to do any damage to it. I have checked my haynes manual, the bible, google etc. and couldn't find out what the light means. Does anyone on here know what it means?

When the key is in the "ON" position (but engine not running) the above light is flashing and the battery and oil lights are permanently on. When the engine is running the only light that remains on is the flashing engine light.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
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Joined: Fri Nov 22, 2002 3:55 pm
Location: Perth WA.

Post by nicbeer »

8v. single point injected?

you should be able to either try the engine codes from a vitara 16v or the swift single point.

some manuals are on here

www.suzukiinfo.com
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 12:48 am
Location: chch nz

Post by gomulletgo »

yes the single point injected 8valve.
you should be able to either try the engine codes from a vitara 16v or the swift single point.
I don't follow what you mean by that.
some manuals are on here www.suzukiinfo.com
The site is down at the moment, bandwidth exceeded. I will keep an eye on it thanks :)

Any more help anyone? I don't know what to try from here :?
Posts: 859
Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 1:49 pm
Location: Adelaide Hills S.A.

Post by atari4x4 »

gomulletgo wrote:Thanks nicbeer for answering my last question :D

Next question: I have an 8valve escudo that I recently bought, it runs alright. The problem is there is a warning light that flashes on the dash, it looks like a little picture of an engine, it flashes like so:

long pause
flash
short pause
flash
flash
(then repeats)

I don't want to continue running the engine while it is flashing, as I don't want to do any damage to it. I have checked my haynes manual, the bible, google etc. and couldn't find out what the light means. Does anyone on here know what it means?

When the key is in the "ON" position (but engine not running) the above light is flashing and the battery and oil lights are permanently on. When the engine is running the only light that remains on is the flashing engine light.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
its throwing error code 12, maybe Throttle Position Sensor? i'm not sure about the 1.6's, my j20a has error code 12 as TPS.
---------===== LOWRANGE JUNKIE =====---------
atari4x4 build up ~ MT/R 31's, calmini, body lift, j20a, 5.12 r&p + other stuff ~
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=162392" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 12:48 am
Location: chch nz

Post by gomulletgo »

All sorted, the code was 12 which means "all is fine". I found that someone had put a fuse in the diagnostic slot in the fuse box, once removed everything was back to normal, obviously someone accidentally put a fuse in there thinking one was missing.

Thanks everyone :)
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:13 pm
Location: brisbane australia..logan reserve

Post by 11_evl »

suspension links!!
5 link set up
what are the effects of having the top and bottom links in different angles.
upper and lower parrellel??
upper and lower closer at diff??
upper and lower closer at chassis??

please help

im after REAL WORLD answers, not, it changes roll stiffness.
i want to no, by having it closer at diff makes the car bounce more on hills or the like???!!!!
michael
Posts: 7345
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2004 3:29 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Gwagensteve »

* I am no suspension expert but I am going to have a bash at this*

Do you mean vertical separation, or triangulation? (i.e link angles viewed from above?)

for a 5 link, neither variation should have any effect on roll stiffness unless you have major bushing bind, and one of the major advantages of 5 link is bushing bind is reduced over, say, a radius arm.

for triangulation -

if there is a major difference in triangulation between upper and lower links you'll get more "steer" while articulating, and the links that are more "triangular" to the axle will be bearing more load in terms of lateral location of the axle, so they'll need to be stronger/have stronger bushes/ends, However, with a panhard, the links can't be too triangulated as the links will be fighting the panhard. That's why factory 5 link fronts (Jeep) have quite parallel arms (viewed from above)

for vertical separation:

Roll centre is changed by the height of the links relative to axle, but with a 5 link that runs a panhard the roll centre is basically 1/2 way along the panhard - the other links will all move relative to the path of the panhard.

The other big effect is on antisquat.

Parallel links will have very low antisquat/antidive.

The closer the links get at the chassis the more antisquat you'll have

Links closer at the diff than the chassis isn't possible - Basically, the pinion will roll around on the spot - the suspension basically won't travel at all.

In short - the panhard handles lateral location, so you don't need to triangulate the links (viewed from above) and in fact it's not helpful.

Vertical separation will effect antiquat/antidive.

Get stuck into the suspension threads on Pirate and start playing with the calculators.

Hope this helps a bit.

Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Posts: 5714
Joined: Fri Nov 22, 2002 3:55 pm
Location: Perth WA.

Post by nicbeer »

Hows this look for my sierra setup.

got a couple ideas on safety mounting and also can u get a nitto socket with a bracket to mount to something?

tank is mounted under zook.



Image
Last edited by nicbeer on Sat Feb 21, 2009 3:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Posts: 1325
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:13 pm
Location: brisbane australia..logan reserve

Post by 11_evl »

Gwagensteve wrote:* I am no suspension expert but I am going to have a bash at this*

Do you mean vertical separation, or triangulation? (i.e link angles viewed from above?)

for a 5 link, neither variation should have any effect on roll stiffness unless you have major bushing bind, and one of the major advantages of 5 link is bushing bind is reduced over, say, a radius arm.

for triangulation -

if there is a major difference in triangulation between upper and lower links you'll get more "steer" while articulating, and the links that are more "triangular" to the axle will be bearing more load in terms of lateral location of the axle, so they'll need to be stronger/have stronger bushes/ends, However, with a panhard, the links can't be too triangulated as the links will be fighting the panhard. That's why factory 5 link fronts (Jeep) have quite parallel arms (viewed from above)

for vertical separation:

Roll centre is changed by the height of the links relative to axle, but with a 5 link that runs a panhard the roll centre is basically 1/2 way along the panhard - the other links will all move relative to the path of the panhard.

The other big effect is on antisquat.

Parallel links will have very low antisquat/antidive.

The closer the links get at the chassis the more antisquat you'll have

Links closer at the diff than the chassis isn't possible - Basically, the pinion will roll around on the spot - the suspension basically won't travel at all.

In short - the panhard handles lateral location, so you don't need to triangulate the links (viewed from above) and in fact it's not helpful.

Vertical separation will effect antiquat/antidive.

Get stuck into the suspension threads on Pirate and start playing with the calculators.

Hope this helps a bit.

Steve.
thanks steve. i understand everything you say. my question is how does all the changes affect driving in the real world, on the track

im planning on setting my FRONT up as.
two lower 80s cruiser arms
one upper ??? arm (at the moment its a ST141 corona arm, all i got, about right length)
and a STD length bundera panhard with bundera diff.
im going to weld a perch on top of the pumpkin and run to the inside of chassis rail..
all arms are parallel looking from top.
looking from side is what i want to no, ie what changes will make what difference???
michael
Posts: 97
Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 9:01 pm
Location: gold coast

Post by c0rrupt »

OK, a new silly question, im sure there are reasons but.......

if everyone wants beadlocks so u can run low preasure, without rolling a tyre off the rim....

Why dont you just run tubes in your tyres?
Posts: 428
Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 10:07 pm
Location: Newcastle NSW

Post by mnemonix »

c0rrupt wrote:OK, a new silly question, im sure there are reasons but.......

if everyone wants beadlocks so u can run low preasure, without rolling a tyre off the rim....

Why dont you just run tubes in your tyres?
With low enough pressure, coupled with enough tyre traction and torque, the tyre can rotate on the rim and tear valve stems.
Posts: 242
Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2007 9:38 am
Location: stuck in a hole. not offroad, just deception bay

Post by mrw82 »

nicbeer wrote:Hows this look for my sierra setup.

got a couple ideas on safety mounting and also can u get a nitto socket with a bracket to mount to something?

tank is mounted under zook.



Image

looks good, similar to mine. make sure you run a check valve (one way valve) between the compressor and tank.

for the oiler in mine I removed the schrader valve from the suction side of the compressor and hooked up the inline oiler there as the only oilers I could get were 1/4" thread, I didn't want to restrict the suction side of the compressor.
I set mine up so that when the compressors running (at 2000rpm engine speed) there is a very fine mist of oil coming out the outlet.

I dont run a manifold as there is enough ports in the tank that I have. as long as the tank to manifold line is not controlled by a valve then a second safety valve is not required, it would be better used as a second outlet so you can run one to each side of the car. (you dont need to carry as long a hose then)

the hose from the compressor doesn't need to be a hydraulic line as such, temperature rating is more important then pressure rating here, your only running 100 psi (maybe upto 150psi) but if the hose cant handle the temperature it simply wont last. I used a stainless braided line with a teflon liner (SST hose) which has crimped fittings on the ends.
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Location: Perth WA.

Post by nicbeer »

mrw82 - cheers for the info.

Yeh i am going to run a check valve i think also, where u run yours?

also what position do u think is better for the safety valve? are they waterproof?

have u got a hand throttle or idle up set up to raise idle?

theres no valve in tank-manifold line,

for the hydralic hose, yeh this is the reason, this is high temp stuff also.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 12:48 am
Location: chch nz

Post by gomulletgo »

It's probably really obvious, but I don't want to buy something that won't fit my truck. Would a SJ410 convertible windscreen fit a SJ413 hardtop? (just the glass not the frame obviously) They look the same to me.

Thanks :)
Posts: 124
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Location: lonnie

Post by FC3892 »

Anyone have pic's of a Holden V6's in a zook? brother for some reason has started doing it with an auto. I think it's a pooh idear but meh! will be funny, mounts are made an tunnel has been re-shaped to suit lol.
looks the goods in there!

Adam
Posts: 5062
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 5:06 pm
Location: queensland

Post by ofr57 »

FC3892 wrote:Anyone have pic's of a Holden V6's in a zook? brother for some reason has started doing it with an auto. I think it's a pooh idear but meh! will be funny, mounts are made an tunnel has been re-shaped to suit lol.
looks the goods in there!

Adam
have a look on ebay there's usally one forsale on there with the boat anchor for a motor :roll:

ok my question which year models did the LWB vitara come out with the 1.6 MPI :?:
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Post by 11_evl »

ofr57 wrote:
FC3892 wrote:Anyone have pic's of a Holden V6's in a zook? brother for some reason has started doing it with an auto. I think it's a pooh idear but meh! will be funny, mounts are made an tunnel has been re-shaped to suit lol.
looks the goods in there!

Adam
have a look on ebay there's usally one forsale on there with the boat anchor for a motor :roll:

ok my question which year models did the LWB vitara come out with the 1.6 MPI :?:
i used to own an 89 LWB vit with EFI, was multi point with dissy
michael
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Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 12:48 am
Location: chch nz

Post by gomulletgo »

I pulled the alternator from my 16valve escudo yesterday, what a prick of a job! Anyway I want to high-mount a high amperage alternator instead of the factory one (I want to run extra spotties etc.)

I searched the bible, search, google etc. And haven't been able to find anything, Can someone please tell me which options there are? What make and model of vehicle should I be looking for a suitable alternator from? Also where exactly should the alternator be mounted? There is plenty of room and mounting points above the exhaust manifold, although I imagine some type of heat deflector would be needed.

Any pics or links to build ups where someone has done what I am describing would be great :)
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Post by Gwagensteve »

You haven't found the EF/EL falcon alternator thread?

This applies to the escudo/vitara too, not just the sierra.

Steve
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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Post by nicbeer »

ofr57 wrote:
FC3892 wrote:Anyone have pic's of a Holden V6's in a zook? brother for some reason has started doing it with an auto. I think it's a pooh idear but meh! will be funny, mounts are made an tunnel has been re-shaped to suit lol.
looks the goods in there!

Adam
have a look on ebay there's usally one forsale on there with the boat anchor for a motor :roll:

ok my question which year models did the LWB vitara come out with the 1.6 MPI :?:
5 door 92ish vits.

check on redbook and think its type 2s that got the efi.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
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Post by Gwagensteve »

All LWB vitaras are EFI.

SWB went to EFI sometime in 1994.

Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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Post by GRPABT1 »

I've just noticed this morning that my drag link is pretty badly bent. I havn't been offroad in a while so I guess it's from the horrible potholes up here due to the rains. Lately I've noticed death wobbles at low speed (second gear abou 20-40km/hr) getting worse, could this be the reason why? I have worn front wheel bearings too but these wobbles seemed to pop up quickly not gradually get worse, leading me to think the drag link could be the culprit.

Also there is no pics on the site but BBM sell 2 types of drag link, are they nt/wt specific or is one strenghtened? Should I make a custom one?
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
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Post by Zook_Fan »

5.12 vitara front diff gears into sierra diff centres:
Whats the best way to do it?
Do you use just the R&P or whole centre?
What year vits came with these gears?
SWB or LWB?

Pinions in sierra diffs:
Do ARB have lockers for both 2 and 4 pinion lockers?
What do WT diffs have?
What do NT diffs have?
Will a NT centre fit into a WT?
How much reduction would it be if you put the NT into a WT?
Worth it?
Posts: 377
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Post by VR Rodeo »

Just a quickie the wiring on top of the gear box, what is it for and how essential are they ? I removed the box yesterday and snapped 2 of the wires when it came out :oops:
'92 Rodeo - VR V6, T700, 31's
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
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Post by ofr57 »

VR Rodeo wrote:Just a quickie the wiring on top of the gear box, what is it for and how essential are they ? I removed the box yesterday and snapped 2 of the wires when it came out :oops:
I think one is sensor is for telling when it is in 5th another is reverse the others i dont know

as for "need" my sensors are screwed so there not a need (you wont have reversing lights though) unless you put the reverse lights on a manual switch

has anyone put a turbo diesel (2L, 1.6L) into a lwb vitara :?:
Last edited by ofr57 on Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by lay80n »

GRPABT1 wrote:I've just noticed this morning that my drag link is pretty badly bent. I havn't been offroad in a while so I guess it's from the horrible potholes up here due to the rains. Lately I've noticed death wobbles at low speed (second gear abou 20-40km/hr) getting worse, could this be the reason why? I have worn front wheel bearings too but these wobbles seemed to pop up quickly not gradually get worse, leading me to think the drag link could be the culprit.

Also there is no pics on the site but BBM sell 2 types of drag link, are they nt/wt specific or is one strenghtened? Should I make a custom one?
Check your shackle bushs and your u-bolts.

Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
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Post by ofr57 »

next silly question

my heater seems to stuck on HOT :x the car's not over heating or showing of being hot , but the vents seem to be pouring hot air into the cab

the car in question is a sierra ute (86 NT)
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Post by lay80n »

ofr57 wrote:next silly question

my heater seems to stuck on HOT :x the car's not over heating or showing of being hot , but the vents seem to be pouring hot air into the cab

the car in question is a sierra ute (86 NT)
Check your heater tap is not stuck. On the fire wall in the engine bay you will see a small valve that the heater hoses run too. The heat/cool cable actuates this valve. Check that the cable is connected and working, and that the calve opperates.

Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Posts: 5062
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Post by ofr57 »

lay80n wrote:
ofr57 wrote:next silly question

my heater seems to stuck on HOT :x the car's not over heating or showing of being hot , but the vents seem to be pouring hot air into the cab

the car in question is a sierra ute (86 NT)
Check your heater tap is not stuck. On the fire wall in the engine bay you will see a small valve that the heater hoses run too. The heat/cool cable actuates this valve. Check that the cable is connected and working, and that the calve opperates.

Layto....
is this below the carbi?
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