Outer Limits 4x4 Board

whaldo wrote:ummm does any one know of any cheep sierra ute cabs and ive seen some photos of zuks with jeep flairs they look phat?

I think there's one on ebay at the moment champ.

EDIT: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Suzuki-Sierra-Ut ... 240%3A1318

spamwell wrote:it will just be the switch on the gearbox playing up. it's only on when the ignition is on ?

Yeah only when the ignition is on, I thought about that but didn't know where to access it. Can you get to it from the gear stick cutout from the interior?

Next question: I have a 1991 16valve escudo that I just fixed the alternator brushes on, There is now a dash light on, I'm sure the light wasn't on previously, the light looks like a little box with tubes coming off the sides and 4 wavy lines going upwards, I've included a picture.

What does this light mean? what is the likely cause of the problem? The vehicle has been offroaded hard, some lights (reversing lights etc.) work sometimes and not at others.

If this light has anything to do with the catalytic converter it should be noted that there has been a big hole in the extractors just before they bolt to the rest of the exhaust system for quite sometime, whereas the dash light is a new problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

That's catalytic converter temperature. It's only fitted to japanese market cars.

Can't answer whether it's a wiring problem or not, but the "big hole" in the extractors won't be helping.

Steve.

Gomulletgo, u need to stop and get some fuel.....

For those that know them both which would be the better tyre for my zook;

32X10.5X15 simex ET pede or

Swamper ltb 34x10.50-15LT

Do you really expect me to asnwer that?

Steve.

yeah I do, do you think the swamper will be acceptable on road at highway speeds? Also which will be stiffer, I know the pedes are pretty stiff as I have the 31X10.5X15 now and I can live with this as I'm getting internal bead locks but not sure if I want it any stiffer. Are the swampers cheaper these days?

They were cheaper, but due to the exchange rate they're on the way up.

They will be softer than ET's once broken in.

I would imagine LTB's will be nicer on the road than ET's as they have less void and they're certainly quieter.

Unless I did heaps and heaps of slick surfaces, I'd go swamper over ET's in a heartbeat.

Actually, under any circumstances, I'd go swampers in a heartbeat.

Steve.

Sweet so they'll balance up alright to do highway speeds, nice, I always thought swampers were like 40km/h or less tyres as they wouldn't balance. Would it be worth cutting the LTB's like they do in competition some times or would that wreck the road manners?

My 31" pedes are still pretty new so hopefully the exchange rate is in my favour come time to purchase, I'll have daily tyres by then too but some places I wheel are hours away. Where do you reccommend purchasing them from? I'm in North QLD and nobody stocks them up here.

what is your reasoning for changing tyre


ps if you were to go simex, the 32 9.5 r15 is pretty good on a sierra

Can't comment on where to get them in your area.

In relation to highway manners, I've never run my swampers with balance weights on them, and have never had a problem cruising them at 100km/h.

They are a US DOT approved highway tyre, the problem is that DOT approval doesn't apply in Australia.

Steve.

I just want to go a little bigger, I like the pedes but wouldn't mind changing to something just as good but a little different. Up here it doesn't rain for 9 months of the year so we don't have the mud like victoria to justify a pede and I do a bit of rock crawling so I think a swamper would be just as good if not better. I can't go the 9.5 as I have 8 inch rims. I've had DOT approved drag radials on my commodore before so I know what you mean steve. Thanks for the help guys.

couple of questions:

has anyone put a 13b (rotary) turbo into a zook?

I'm really considering it as a long term job for my sierra and i can't see why it wouldnt be able to be engineered if a SR20 being a 2L can be engineered. Obviously the standard diffs wouldnt stand up to it but would say chromo axles and cv's or would the centre give way? What sort of gear box would be suitable to be backed up to it?

Thanks if you can shed any light on this or even if there is some thing i have missed (big issues)

and lastly GRPABT1 pm me a price for your pedes if you are going to get rid of the 31's pls

Sam at overkill engineering in Sydney has done a rotary zook. Worked really well from what I heard. Roctoy designfab off here also had one in a vit buggy IIRC.

Sr20's have been done before too. christover had an excellent write up on here about a mate of his doing the conversion. A search should find it although I think the photos are gone now. ca18zook also did a ca18 swap which is pretty much the same thing AFAIK. I would use the standard RWD box and mount the sierra tcase behind it.

As always though. Talk to an engineer first and see what they say, they're generally more knowledgeable than tards like me on the e-web.

Question - What benefit is there to a shackle reversal? Some people seem to put a lot of effort into a SR. Why?

its supposed to flex more. iam not saying it does tho. But the stupid looking front mounts get bashed on everything on approach

Thanks c0rrupt I was hoping no one would notice that.

That's catalytic converter temperature. It's only fitted to japanese market cars.

Can't answer whether it's a wiring problem or not, but the "big hole" in the extractors won't be helping.

Steve.

Thanks for that steve, I don't mean to offend, but are you absolutely sure (can anyone else confirm this?) that that light only relates to the catalytic converter? It goes against the grain for me to keep running an engine while there is a heat light showing up!!!

BTW I had another look under the escudo and found that the two mufflers (maybe one is a catalytic converter) also have big holes in them As this engine will be transplanted into a sierra (sj413) and I will have to re-do the exhaust system I'm guessing I can just ignore the light for now?

Thanks again

Silly question...

I have std sierra 1ltr diffs which have been sitting for two years outside with only a small amout of oil in them.

I was told to put shitty savings engine oil (errr cheapest stuff I can find) into them and drive 500kms, then drop it out and put the good gear oil in.

Do you guys share this opinion? should it be more or less k's? I'm guessing that I shouldn't do any serious 4wd'ing with crap oil in my diffs!?!?!?!


Thanks in advance

Org wrote:Silly question...

I have std sierra 1ltr diffs which have been sitting for two years outside with only a small amout of oil in them.

I was told to put shitty savings engine oil (errr cheapest stuff I can find) into them and drive 500kms, then drop it out and put the good gear oil in.

Do you guys share this opinion? should it be more or less k's? I'm guessing that I shouldn't do any serious 4wd'ing with crap oil in my diffs!?!?!?!

Thanks in advance

this sounds like a similar practice to what people do with old engines that have been sitting for a while... it's probably a good thing to do, but might end up being overkill.

i think 4wding would be fine with the junk oil... more likely freeway driving that will kill the diff if you have crap oil in it - they will heat up and suffer on the longer drives...

mrRocky wrote:its supposed to flex more. iam not saying it does tho. But the stupid looking front mounts get bashed on everything on approach

If you go to the build thread and check out the approach angle in my pics and then compare it to someone with RUF or extended shackles you might take that back.

The main two benifits of SR that I can think of is the way the front wheel drops down into holes and the ride comfort gained from better bump absorbtion.

Zook_Fan wrote:couple of questions:

has anyone put a 13b (rotary) turbo into a zook?

I'm really considering it as a long term job for my sierra and i can't see why it wouldnt be able to be engineered if a SR20 being a 2L can be engineered. Obviously the standard diffs wouldnt stand up to it but would say chromo axles and cv's or would the centre give way? What sort of gear box would be suitable to be backed up to it?

Thanks if you can shed any light on this or even if there is some thing i have missed (big issues)

and lastly GRPABT1 pm me a price for your pedes if you are going to get rid of the 31's pls

Someone off here or 4WD action had a rotary sierra and the weak spot seemed to be transfer cases that exploded.

gomulletgo wrote: Thanks for that steve, I don't mean to offend, but are you absolutely sure

AFAIK yes. I've had a look a few wiring digrams and it seems directly linked to the light not the computer, ie it's a temp switch, not a computer output.

Because the EFI isn't smart enough to prevent a hot cat, they throw the light. It was very common in japanese cars (only) from the early 1990's but has dissapeared now.

If the system was "smart" if wouldn't need to throw the light, it would just retard timing and richen the car up to cool the cat down. This is what "modern" cars do.

GRPABT1 wrote:

Zook_Fan wrote:couple of questions:

has anyone put a 13b (rotary) turbo into a zook?

I'm really considering it as a long term job for my sierra and i can't see why it wouldnt be able to be engineered if a SR20 being a 2L can be engineered. Obviously the standard diffs wouldnt stand up to it but would say chromo axles and cv's or would the centre give way? What sort of gear box would be suitable to be backed up to it?

Thanks if you can shed any light on this or even if there is some thing i have missed (big issues)

and lastly GRPABT1 pm me a price for your pedes if you are going to get rid of the 31's pls

Someone off here or 4WD action had a rotary sierra and the weak spot seemed to be transfer cases that exploded.

hmmm that is food for thought.... how many other vehicles have divorced transfers?

Lada niva
Some petrol MQ patrol
Some NP 205 cases used in "highboy" F250's from the late 1970's
NP 200 cases used in trucks
I think that's it from memory.

Guess the only one you can get gears for?

an auto, and correct mounts and gears will fix that. Gear drive Transfers can normally cope with lots of HP as they're never shifted unser load.

Steve.

question.
has anyone done power assist off a vitara box

Question time:

I have stripped the bottom stud on my Sierra spare wheel carrier. Ive managed to punch the stud out, though standard they also have two small welds holding them there. What have people used to replace the studs (standard Sierra wheel studs?? will they not chew out the thin mount?), as welding again seems like an unacceptable option.

Highway-Star wrote:Question time:

I have stripped the bottom stud on my Sierra spare wheel carrier. Ive managed to punch the stud out, though standard they also have two small welds holding them there. What have people used to replace the studs (standard Sierra wheel studs?? will they not chew out the thin mount?), as welding again seems like an unacceptable option.

If its just the stock one, you could probably find another one for the cost of a new stud? Might be easier.

Layto....

lay80n wrote:

Highway-Star wrote:Question time:

I have stripped the bottom stud on my Sierra spare wheel carrier. Ive managed to punch the stud out, though standard they also have two small welds holding them there. What have people used to replace the studs (standard Sierra wheel studs?? will they not chew out the thin mount?), as welding again seems like an unacceptable option.

If its just the stock one, you could probably find another one for the cost of a new stud? Might be easier.

Layto....

Was thinking that too. Yet to price them though.

11_evl wrote:question.
has anyone done power assist off a vitara box

there have been a few buildups on pirate that had modifications to a vitara box to run a ram.

there was also one fellow that modified the pump for better flow which was also supposed to increase steering assistance