Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Q, my sierra gearbox has 2 studs at the bottom of the bellhousing that i have to remove to fit my benT kit (where the 2 countersunk bolts go into box, if your familiar).
One was super tight, budged a bit but after welding a nut on and turning with spanner and vice grips i have snapped one trying to get it out. The other bolt/stud is still intact. any suggestions on getting these crunts out?

^ Possibly ezy outs?

What are floating axles?

The badge on my Sierra has JX. What does JX mean?

mike_nofx wrote:What are floating axles?

I started to type an answer, but cheated by cutting and pasting .

A full-floating axles are usually designed for severe duty, or are intended to carry heavy loads. This type of axle uses an axleshaft on each side that is simply splined at both ends or splined on the inner end and has a drive flange on the outer end. The shaft mates to the differential in the same way as a semi-floater. However, the outer end of the shaft differs. Here, the splined end of the shaft slides into a locking hub or an internal splined steel drive plate that bolts to a hub cap, similar to what is found on a front axle. In some cases, the drive flange may be part of the shaft itself. In either case, the axleshaft is allowed to float in the system.

For a full-floater system, the axleshaft only serves to transmit the rotational torque from the differential out to the wheel. It does not carry the weight of the vehicle like a semi-floater does. On a full floater, a spindle is attached to the outer end of the axlehousing. The hub's cap is attached to this spindle and rides on tapered roller bearings. It is this assembly that carries the vehicle weight. As such, a full-floating axle system is considerably stronger than an equivalently sized semi-floating system.

A full-floater axle is easily recognized externally by the drive flange or locking hub that is evident in the center hole of the wheel.
For those who carry heavy loads, this means your axle load capacity is greatly increased with a full-floater. Load ratings for similar vehicles with the two different axles are usually significantly different. If you do hard-core 'wheeling on big tires, a full-floater means that your axleshafts can also handle much more loading than a similar semi-floater could because it now must only handle torque loading.

Further advantages of a full-floater include being able to remove a broken axleshaft, yet still have the ability to keep a functional rolling tire on that corner of the vehicle. This can be done since the wheel actually bolts to the hub that rides on the spindle attached to the axlehousing. If the axle has manual locking hubs, it may be possible to unlock the rear hubs for towing a disabled vehicle.

Some OL members have floating axles on their Sierras.

(From here http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0112or_ ... index.html

was faced with an interesting thing this morning, the sierra ute wont turn right the only thing i can think what could cause this is the steering box crapping itself?

so left is fine?

Jack up the front end and move through full travel and check for binding but yes steering box could be possible.

could be a number of things, describe the symptoms some more. Does the steering wheel turn or not at all? Check you're steering shaft biscuit.

nicbeer wrote:so left is fine?

Jack up the front end and move through full travel and check for binding but yes steering box could be possible.

left is fine , I jacked it up this afternoon and i can turn right with a fair bit of effort after about a dozen lock to lock it loosen up so i put it back on its wheels then i went to turn right and it was like trying to move a brick wall

when i turn the steering wheel it makes a pop sound?

Questions:

Are Vitara Power steer boxes the same as Grand Vitara (2005 model GV with chassis) Boxes?

Can 15" rims fit over the dic brakes on the front of a 1.6L SWB grand vitara? ie are they the same as the LWB 1.6 estate Vitara vented brakes?

Thanks.

GV's are rack and pinion, so no.

Not aure about brake clearance with the GV.

STeve.

Gwagensteve wrote:GV's are rack and pinion, so no.

Not aure about brake clearance with the GV.

STeve.

I managed to try out 15" Sierra rims on the GV brakes today, sadly a no go, the calipers rub on the rim.

Yeah, I realised that late yesterday about the steering box .......well I guess it qualifies as a very silly question.

ofr57 wrote:

nicbeer wrote:so left is fine?

Jack up the front end and move through full travel and check for binding but yes steering box could be possible.

left is fine , I jacked it up this afternoon and i can turn right with a fair bit of effort after about a dozen lock to lock it loosen up so i put it back on its wheels then i went to turn right and it was like trying to move a brick wall

when i turn the steering wheel it makes a pop sound?

Disconnect the steering draglink and see if you can turn the wheels by hand, and steering wheel by hand.


Layto....

are swift calipers the same as sierra?
cheers

there brake lines are but they are heaps longer than sierra ones.

So The original Sierra Alt. gave up the ghost.. wont charge, squeels, etc.. Is it possible(considering the carb. has electrical wires/solonoids etc) that the Alt. dying could contribute to rough running? refuses to idle( have tried with no luck to clean the carb out, so im considering other things now)

I have the FROD(sic) 110amp Alt. but seems everyone has a DIFFERENT idea on how to set them up, Iv collected a V belt pulley from an XA falcon with a spacer, but dont have the tools(Rattle Gun) gun remove the multi groove pully and replace with the V. So will do a 'wreckers trip' today and HOPEFULLY pick up some swift/Barina MG pulleys.. Is there a specific model to be on the look out for in regards to this?!

so short questions for the non readers:

1: Can a stuffed alt. lead to a rough idle/carbie playing up!?

2. Is there a specific model swift the multi groove pullys used for the 110amp alt. conversion come from?

**searching reveals a number of answers, none which REALLY help answer directly.**

Cheers fellas.

Sp33d

I can't see any reason for a stuffed alternator to cause carby problems, ut it will be causing plenty of ignition problems. Low battery voltage will equal a poor spark and will cause all sorts of rough running problems.

I'm a bit confused as to what you are trying to achieve with the pulley swap. Are you trying to swap your crank pulley and water pump pulley to multi V?

I haven't tried to do this, but I do know that G16A's have a 5 stud crank pulley and 13's have a 4 bolt pulley. There's also different water pump lengths - FWD cars don't need to run an engine fan so they don't necessarily have the same length pump snout, so they won't always have the same depth of pulley offset. likewise, cars with viscous fans run different length pumps too as the weight of the fan needs more bearing support.

IMHO the task you have set yourself is far more frustrating than taking your 110A alternator to a mechanic and getting them to gun the pullet nut off.

JMHO.

Steve.

cheers on the quick reply Gwag.
The first part regarding the alt. carb. rough idle is what I meant, weak spark, poor 'complete' circuit. Cheers for the confirmation. Hopefully fixing the Alt. should result in a smooth idle once again...

Its still a g13b. so 4 stud on the main n W/p.

[quote=christover]Its fairly easy to change to multi v pulleys on the Sierra 1.3.
The crank pulley is bolt on, and so is the waterpump, from Swift/Barinas. [/quote]

from: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic790 ... =altenator

what im hoping to achieve, multi ribbed:
bogfrog


other option of the single V.
want33


takn from:http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... -asc-0.php
guess im off the the wreckers lol

taking your 110A alternator to a mechanic and getting them to gun the pullet nut off.

huh.

dont have the tools(Rattle Gun) gun remove the multi groove pully

huh.

Is that how it is supposed to be done I must be a real bush mechanic because I normally use a pair of big slip jaw pliers (or vice) to hold the pully, and then just a socket and power bar on the nut.

foolsp33d wrote:Its still a g13b. so 4 stud on the main n W/p.

isn't the g13b(a) a 5 bolt crank pulley and you should be able to use vit multi rib pulleys if thats what you are chasing

maybe not a stupid Q but meh.

Can u cause damage leaving off the axle circlip when replacing a CV on a sierra?

i have heard some have and some have not left it off.

Apparently no damage can be done by leaving it off - the NZ guys do it all the time.

However - suzuki put in on there for a reason, so I'm happy to leave mine on.

Steve.

nicbeer wrote:maybe not a stupid Q but meh.

Can u cause damage leaving off the axle circlip when replacing a CV on a sierra?

i have heard some have and some have not left it off.

i dont have them on mine and i have broken 1 cv. dunno if it is related though.

nicbeer wrote:maybe not a stupid Q but meh.

Can u cause damage leaving off the axle circlip when replacing a CV on a sierra?

i have heard some have and some have not left it off.

I had a situation once where I replaced the axle seal with a cheap generic seal, and left the circlip off. Without the circlip in place, the short axle on the RHS could move 'in and out' around 10mm (too much for the size of the seal surface in my opinion). I had an oil leak almost immediately.

I am fairly confident that the problem was a combination of the non-genuine oil seal AND the excessive axle movement. With the circlip ON and a genuine seal, I have no more leaks!

I will be keeping my circlips on just in case. Its a real PITA when you have to do the job twice!

Cheers,

Pez

will GV calipers and rotors fit on a sierra? or are they a bit oversized?

lay80n wrote:

ofr57 wrote:

nicbeer wrote:so left is fine?

Jack up the front end and move through full travel and check for binding but yes steering box could be possible.

left is fine , I jacked it up this afternoon and i can turn right with a fair bit of effort after about a dozen lock to lock it loosen up so i put it back on its wheels then i went to turn right and it was like trying to move a brick wall

when i turn the steering wheel it makes a pop sound?

Disconnect the steering draglink and see if you can turn the wheels by hand, and steering wheel by hand.


Layto....

pulled the steering box today - found the problem the bearing further est to the cab was stuffed causing single ball bearings to get into the gears

looks like water got into the box

dad wrote:i know a 1.6efi vit with 300k on the clock and what seems to be an unopened original motor still going ok.

my question-- what's a swb sierra fibreglass hardtop worth (as a seller)

is this normal?

what amount of K's can these motors generally do before a rebuild?

Where should i pad my cage? This is what i think but im not sure;



Red is - pretty sure
Green is - not sure

Thanks

Zook_Fan wrote:Red is - pretty sure
Green is - not sure

Everywhere any body part could possibly hit ie any exposed bits of cage in passenger area. Double check with an engineer when you get it passed .


Another question:

Does the JX or non air conditioned Vitara have provisions (ie holes or pipes) in firewall for connecting up air con unit?

=SKB= wrote:

Zook_Fan wrote:Red is - pretty sure
Green is - not sure

Everywhere any body part could possibly hit ie any exposed bits of cage in passenger area. Double check with an engineer when you get it passed .


Another question:

Does the JX or non air conditioned Vitara have provisions (ie holes or pipes) in firewall for connecting up air con unit?

Yes, there should be holes in the fire wall with bungs in then. Most body panels are the same between different spec levels, with just bungs or plates covering the unused pentrations.
Layto....

ofr57 wrote:

dad wrote:i know a 1.6efi vit with 300k on the clock and what seems to be an unopened original motor still going ok.

my question-- what's a swb sierra fibreglass hardtop worth (as a seller)

is this normal?

what amount of K's can these motors generally do before a rebuild?

my speedo stopped working at 299500 and that was at least 10000ks ago
i have the complete service history for my car and it is defiantly the untouched
original motor. it has a bit off a knock when cold but i think it is just a rocker shaft.
i often drive 700ks round trip in a day to get to good fishing spots or to wheel in different places. my car is awesome.

wooohoo my turn

i know 1.6l lwb front brakes bolt on to sierra but do the bigger reardrums as well?

seems like a much better combo than going thrpugh the hassle of rear discs

also would the stock sierra brake cyliner cope with the added size front and rear? (less likly to lock up then the bigger ones?)