Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Santos wrote: i know 1.6l lwb front brakes bolt on to sierra but do the bigger reardrums as well?

seems like a much better combo than going thrpugh the hassle of rear discs

also would the stock sierra brake cyliner cope with the added size front and rear? (less likly to lock up then the bigger ones?)

Can't comment on cylinder size but the rear vitara drums are not, 100% not, bigger than sierra rear drums.

I know this because I have modified vitara pads in my sierra rear drums. They are the same size. They might have a slightly different piston spec, but the pad area isn't bigger.

The backing plate and therefore the drum itself won't swap over.

Steve.

is this lwb vit drums? i only pulled the inffo from another thread as CJ said the rears whnere bigger than the swb.

so im a bit new to 4wdin
iv got a vit LWB with free wheeling hubs
is it bad to
a) drive in low range 4wd without hubs engaged
b) drive in high 4wd with hugs engaged on bitumen
c) drive in high 2wd with hubs engaged
thanks

pyrohamish wrote:so im a bit new to 4wdin
iv got a vit LWB with free wheeling hubs
is it bad to
a) drive in low range 4wd without hubs engaged
b) drive in high 4wd with hugs engaged on bitumen
c) drive in high 2wd with hubs engaged
thanks

a) YES
b) if dry YES, if wet NO
c)no

for what particular reason is that? for each of them, jsut trying to build up my knowledge here

Silly Questiom: If I fit 1.3NT diffs under my 1ltr LWB (to get a bit more speed/less revs/air locker availability) will the non-boosted master cylinder still stop the car as well? Is there any other issues?

It will stop OK- the front cylinders are the same and the rear wheel cylinders are also pretty much identical.

I've put a baleno M/C in mine and it's alright (if nothing special)

I'm going to a 1 1/16" subaru cylinder, still unboosted, in mine once I go to discs in the rear.

Steve.

Ok my alternator on my GTi motor stopped charging so I bought a new one which turned out to be a dud and is in getting rebuilt. I cleaned up the old one really well with contact cleaner and re-fitted it so I could drive it to work (it'll run for ages on the 700cca battery) and charge at home. But the old one is now working fine. Should I ask to get my money back for the new one or just grab it in case the old one packs it in for good?

pyrohamish wrote:so im a bit new to 4wdin
iv got a vit LWB with free wheeling hubs
is it bad to
a) drive in low range 4wd without hubs engaged
b) drive in high 4wd with hugs engaged on bitumen
c) drive in high 2wd with hubs engaged
thanks

a) Can be, often not
b) definately Yes
c) No

pyrohamish wrote:for what particular reason is that? for each of them, jsut trying to build up my knowledge here

a) Low range 1st gear enables the engine to deliver more torque to the axles than high range. With the hubs engaged this torque is spread between the front and rear axles. Without the hubs engaged the rear axle has to take the lot. So If you are in Low 1st and you are pulling hard with lots of right foot then it probably not a good idea to not have the hubs engaged. However if you are just want to go slow and you are not using much throttle then you will do no harm? (cheapest way to get low range two wheel drive actually)

b) Bitumen is a very high traction surface. when you go round a corner then front wheels travel further than the back wheels, so they have to travel faster. But in 4wd (high or low, doesn't matter) and the hubs engaged the transmission forces both front wheels and back wheels to travel the same speed. So either you force the tyres to slip on this high traction surface or the transmission breaks. Usually the tyres will slip wearing them out quickly, but do this long enough fatigue takes its toll and something will break.

c) Some suzukis came with the front hubs permanently engaged. In 2wd the front wheel are not connected so the wheels can travel faster than the back. However you will be turning the front axles, diff and tail shaft unneccessarily. This will use a little more power, hence use a little more fuel, and be wearing them out unneccessarily. (Saying that however, if you haven't been in 4wd for a while, is a good idea to occasionally engage the hubs to splash the oil around the front diff and keep it lubricated)

hope that helps

Jaffa wrote:Silly Questiom: If I fit 1.3NT diffs under my 1ltr LWB (to get a bit more speed/less revs/air locker availability) will the non-boosted master cylinder still stop the car as well? Is there any other issues?

I have this set up in one of mine, not registered though.
Will it stop? Yes
Will it stop as well? NO!. You require a lot more pedal pressure than either the drums without the booster or the discs with the booster.

Are the chassis the same distance apart between and NT and WT sierras?

I want to put all of the accessories, ie Bullbar from the SWB WT donor onto a LWB NT....Is it a straight fit? Or are the chassis rails closer together on the NT?

Also are the radiators and radiator mounts the same between the NT and WT?

Cheers,
CW

I'm pretty sure they are the same. Its just the leaf mounts and shackle mounts that are out-riggered.

croatian4x4 wrote:Are the chassis the same distance apart between and NT and WT sierras?

I want to put all of the accessories, ie Bullbar from the SWB WT donor onto a LWB NT....Is it a straight fit? Or are the chassis rails closer together on the NT?

Also are the radiators and radiator mounts the same between the NT and WT?

Cheers,
CW

i brought an ARB winch bar off a guy with a wide track and put it on my LWB ute

Yes chassis width is the same.

Radiators and mounts are the same also. (well, the same enough - there are some small changes across the years, but it's all a bolt on)

Steve.

And that Chassis width is???

Anyone know where that link is too the page that has the detailed tech drawing of a LWB chassis with all dimentions?

I thoguht I had it save but I dont

The Narrow track swb 1ltr chassie is angled slightly outwards in the rear when compared with my widetrack 1ltr lwb. Chassie rails are straight on the lwb w/t 1ltr.

Remydog05 wrote:And that Chassis width is???

Anyone know where that link is too the page that has the detailed tech drawing of a LWB chassis with all dimentions?

I thoguht I had it save but I dont

Here you go:


That is a LWB 1.3Litre Narrow Track.

Ah thats the one!

Your a star! LOL

Thanks mate

Does the SWB WT dash bolt into the LWB NT?

Can't see why not, but you'll need all the stuff behind the dash too - ducts etc... maybe even the support bar that runs across the car.

Steve.

pyrohamish wrote:so im a bit new to 4wdin
iv got a vit LWB with free wheeling hubs
is it bad to
a) drive in low range 4wd without hubs engaged
b) drive in high 4wd with hugs engaged on bitumen
c) drive in high 2wd with hubs engaged
thanks

I would see no reason at all why driving in 2wd low would do any damage at all, Suzuki folks regularly upsize tyres and lower the final drive ratio, install difflocks etc without driveline damage (unless really heavily pushed with reasonable tyre sizes ... say up to a 32 inch tyre a 6 inch increase over factory sizes.)
I would not be running in 4wd on bitumen at all.
2wd with hubs engaged . no issue, fuel economy would go down a bit, and you may feel a few extra vibrations, but no real issues.

Hi,
I am looking for a interim solution to stop my tyres rubbing on the guard at full flex. I will be putting in a body lift in the future so it does not need to be perfect.
I was thinking about a bumpstop extension, but could not find much information about building one. Is there any temporary way to do this without welding?

Cheers,
Pat

bones005 wrote:Hi,
I am looking for a interim solution to stop my tyres rubbing on the guard at full flex. I will be putting in a body lift in the future so it does not need to be perfect.
I was thinking about a bumpstop extension, but could not find much information about building one. Is there any temporary way to do this without welding?

Cheers,
Pat

Vit or sierra?

Sierra, easy at the front with some RHS and rear can be done same with bolt on rhs but a bit trickier.

Vit or sierra?

Sierra, easy at the front with some RHS and rear can be done same with bolt on rhs but a bit trickier.

Sorry Nicbeer, it is a WT Sierra. Also what is "RHS"?

Thanks for the quick reply.

Cheers,
Pat

RHS (rectangular hollow section)
What size tryes are tyou running?
I used 50mm bump stop extensions and a 50mm BL (body lift) to clear 33s

Will the 1.3 alternator fit my 1ltr ?

I have searched and found the firing order is 1,3,4,2, but can someone tell me, is the number 1 piston the one closest to the front on the engine bay ?

yes 1 is up the front 4 is the back near the fire wall

Im wanting to upgrade the steering arms on my WT diffs ie drag link and tie rod. Is there an after market mob who do these? I have been looking at the High steerkits around the place but all references seem to be to SPOA wehicles which mine is not. Will a high steer kit fit a SPUA sierra? Is there a better option?

whats the best way to remove a steering box.. do you have to remove the radiator? or undo the tierod and then lift it up and out? got it unbolted but cant see which way to go.. :S