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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:39 pm
by CRUSHU
Lambda LPG is the oxy sensor reading, what it means thou, I dunno.

I don't know what Gas likes, but it seems very lean down low, then gets less lean up top, but it is still lean. I would have expected to see 11's or 12's somewhere there.

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:44 pm
by MudRhino
chimpboy wrote:That amount of torque doesn't sound right to me next to that amount of power.

It's like 1400 Nm isn't it? And 145kW, when a stock TB42 makes 125kW and 320Nm.

Are we talking about power/torque at the wheels or at the flywheel?

Does it feel a lot quicker?
A stock TB42 running 125kws? No offence mate, but your seriously dreaming - unless your refering to that power at the fly wheel.

A stockie would produce around the 75-80kws range, and on gas about 60-70kws.

Most turboed GQs, unless were talking big buck jobs range from around 100 to 180 kws.

There is one GQ running 307kws - but thats on the far end of extreme! The vehicle in question is Birddy's - built at OnTrack 4X4 in Victoria!

Heres the DYNO sheet:

Image

Theres a small amount of footage and some photos of this vehicle if anyone is interested http://www.mudrhino.com.au

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:54 pm
by scorched
He meant at flywheel ;)



Specifications
Nissan TB42 engine

Intermittent output (SAE Gross J1349)


152 Hp @ 3,600 rpm

Continuous output (SAE Gross J1349)


137 Hp @ 3,600 rpm

Peak torque (SAE Gross J1349)


32.5 kg-m (235 ft-lb) @ 2,800 rpm

Minimum fuel consumption


210 g/Hp·hr (0.463 lb/Hp·hr) @ 2,000 rpm

Fuel and type


Water cooled gasoline, (LPG & Natural gas) 4-cycle, O.H.V.

Cylinder arrangement


6 in-line

Combustion chamber


Bath-tub shape

Bore x stroke


96 x 96 mm (3.78 x 3.78 in)

Total piston displacement


4,169 cc (254.3 cu in)

Compression ratio


8.3

Length x with x (Type I)


906 x 720 x 850 mm (35.6 x 28.3 x 33.4 in)

Dry weight (Type I)


288 kg (635 lb)

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 6:13 pm
by CRUSHU
So RWKW from 125 fly will be well under 100hp, more so if it is on dual fuel (due to many things, especially intake restrictions) and a lot more so if it were auto.

I think mine was 70 - 80, for a dual fuel EFI.

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 6:43 pm
by bigears
CRUSHU wrote:So RWKW from 125 fly will be well under 100hp, more so if it is on dual fuel (due to many things, especially intake restrictions) and a lot more so if it were auto.

I think mine was 70 - 80, for a dual fuel EFI.
Yer mine was 74rwkw on gas and 35's :D look out birdy :armsup:

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:31 pm
by nzdarin
My tuner is confident of getting 300 rwkw without to much work at 10psi. ie 600hp at flywheel. That is on a standard engine (VH45) with custom manifolds, Garrett T04z, PWR 650hp water to air intercooler, twin fuels pumps (one per bank), very short 4" snorkel etc, 3" into 4" exhuast. But the big difference between this and a TB42 is the revs. (and wieght ie just over 200kgs) Peak torque shoud be around 3000 to 3400 rpm, peak HP should be around 6000rpm and redline at 7300 rpm. 80% of torque at 2000rpm and 90% at redline. (the joys of variable valve timing) It's running at present but only with base ecu tune, it will be going on the dyno, hopefully before the end of the month. Complete engine swap, including turbo, tuning, engineering etc will be about $12,000, so very very cheap HP.
I'll get the dyno sheet once done for those that are interested. Fingers crossed it does what planned!!!!!!!

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:41 pm
by Mulisha
Thanks alot guys for ya replys it's been good to read.

Been out driving the car all week end and it seems to go good.

I have a couple little problems like i need a primer becuase it takes for bloody ever to start and u have to keep making it click etc.

I'm thinking of doing the following and after ur oppions..

Getting a pipe and putting my pod filter in behind my headlight.
Get a water to air intercooler.
Also put heat sheilds everywere to stop the heat a bit.

Do you think if i did the above would make a enough difference to warrant spending the $$$ on it ? Becuase i don't want to spend more money on it have to wait longer for tyres and susspension if it's not going to make enough difference in HP/KW becuase i'm not loaded with cash and don't want to waste it so to speak.


Thanks

alot

Rick.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 6:55 pm
by turbo4.8
307 rear wheel kw was made at auto salon in november with a stock bottom end which was six years old and had had constant thrashing.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 7:41 pm
by gqpete
turbo4.8 wrote:307 rear wheel kw was made at auto salon in november with a stock bottom end which was six years old and had had constant thrashing.
yeah there is no big dollars spent on birrbys motor. just the tuning, good turbo and bit of head work and lots of knowledge bout these motors from andrew cassar at ontrack 4x4 bout what these things can handle etc. dont forget lots of booost

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 7:47 pm
by CRUSHU
gqpete wrote:yeah there is no big dollars spent on birrbys motor. just the tuning, good turbo and bit of head work and lots of knowledge bout these motors from andrew cassar at ontrack 4x4 bout what these things can handle etc. dont forget lots of booost

I beg to differ.

If the knowledge is not your own, it costs. If it is not big $$ (what would big $$ be? $8k?) Then I want one. I'm tipping the development is Sponsored, so it is actually costing.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 7:54 pm
by turbo4.8
spent lots of bucks tryings, some things work, some things don't, i'll keep some things to my self, alway's trying to stay ahead of every one else.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:04 pm
by CRUSHU
My point exactly.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:05 pm
by turbo4.8
yes, but none of it's sponser ship,

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:05 pm
by bogged
Mulisha wrote:Thanks alot guys for ya replys it's been good to read.

Been out driving the car all week end and it seems to go good.

I have a couple little problems like i need a primer becuase it takes for bloody ever to start and u have to keep making it click etc.

I'm thinking of doing the following and after ur oppions..

Getting a pipe and putting my pod filter in behind my headlight.
Get a water to air intercooler.
Also put heat sheilds everywere to stop the heat a bit.

Do you think if i did the above would make a enough difference to warrant spending the $$$ on it ? Becuase i don't want to spend more money on it have to wait longer for tyres and susspension if it's not going to make enough difference in HP/KW becuase i'm not loaded with cash and don't want to waste it so to speak.

Rick.
how much do you think a GOOD water to air will cost you? have a word to Heath lawson.. he may still have his forsale.. think it was over $4k to create and setup.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:08 pm
by turbo4.8
don't even bother just put and air to air on, if you think you had a plumbing nightmare under your bonnett before just wait untill a water to air intercooler is fitted.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:08 pm
by CRUSHU
turbo4.8 wrote:yes, but none of it's sponser ship,
Someone above was trying to say is wasn't lots of money.... Bwahahaha!!

The only way it wasn't going to be expensive, is if someone else is paying the bills.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:12 pm
by CRUSHU
bogged wrote:
how much do you think a GOOD water to air will cost you? have a word to Heath lawson.. he may still have his forsale.. think it was over $4k to create and setup.


hahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhaha and one!!


Four thousand dollars? (say it slowly). Are you for real? This isn't Horsepower Hero's, he won't be needing a incab or boot mounted cooler setup, with dry ice etc!!

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:13 pm
by bogged
CRUSHU wrote:hahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhaha and one!!


Four thousand dollars? (say it slowly). Are you for real? This isn't Horsepower Hero's, he won't be needing a incab or boot mounted cooler setup, with dry ice etc!!
what did i say? I said Heaths one.. Not your Ebay special did I? as I said "I THINK", so how much was heaths one?

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:17 pm
by turbo4.8
if you don't have lots of water volume it ain't worth using because water water can't cool down quick enough.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:18 pm
by CRUSHU
turbo4.8 wrote:if you don't have lots of water volume it ain't worth using because water water can't cool down quick enough.
Or a decent exchanger/fan.

We use a small car radiator, and a small 1-2l reservoir tank in one streeter, and it keeps fairly low inlet temps.

That fits in a commodore with no cutting what so ever, not even the front bar. The engine gets no hotter, and the A/C still works good.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:23 pm
by Zac Zec
Correct me if im wrong but birddys dyno sheet is not rwhp but fly wheel hp. Still very impressive, Torque is awesome!!

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:28 pm
by turbo4.8
how did you get that. please explain?

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:36 pm
by CRUSHU
Oh yeah, the Autosalon dyno when we won it was in flywheel power....

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:45 pm
by turbo4.8
showed 304 on dyno, at tuners. i,m sure the figures would have been totaly different if one of them was in RWKW.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:48 pm
by CRUSHU
The rolling road flywheel power dyno at Easternats, in it's wisdom ? decided there was 11hp driveline loss.
They are notoriously inaccurate.

Also, different dyno's and brands can be hugely different, especially if you are boost spiking!! (Not saying yours does)
Easy 20-30hp minimum difference in a reasonably powerfull engine.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:54 pm
by turbo4.8
two totaly different dyno's, different brands, different operators, different days, different ambient tempretures, not a bad result if you ask me.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 9:01 pm
by CRUSHU
turbo4.8 wrote:two totaly different dyno's, different brands, different operators, different days, different ambient tempretures, not a bad result if you ask me.
Are your sheets posted up somewhere, for a look?

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 9:29 pm
by turps
CRUSHU wrote:
turbo4.8 wrote:two totaly different dyno's, different brands, different operators, different days, different ambient tempretures, not a bad result if you ask me.
Are your sheets posted up somewhere, for a look?
At a guess the dyno graph posted by mudrhino of Birdys petrol ute, will be one of them. Also Birdys is an auto. So they have even more drivetrain loss dont they?

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:17 pm
by nastytroll
I talked to ON TRACK about 8 month ago about turbo tb45 they said give them engine n $6500 for rebuild then another $22500 in parts plus abit here n there for small fab work for plumbing n bracket that would be 240-290 rwkw n about 480 f/lb at treads that was everything needed, ignition, pistons, cam, injectors, turbo, manifold, i/c ect, ect on pump fuel so whats a big $$ engine they built Birys engine so cant see it on stock internals with that much go but I could be wrong

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 11:07 pm
by scorched
$22500 ouch!!!.

Better off getting a crate v8 or something else. You could even import some gear from dubai to do something different :D

Mulisha i think you should just whack on a snorkle and air box setup.

Im going to intercool mine as i might as well get it all setup from the start. good old $200 intercooler of ebay why wouldn't I. Im only going to get it full of mud and sticks anyway.