Yeah i agree 100%!! all of my wiring is now in split tube and most of the main looms have been split tubed where i think they could be a problem.... I pretty much ready to start putting the dash back together after todays effort but i have had too glue some broken plastic so it on the bench and will be refitted on the weekend...
Mick
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Rangie UTE build - Kit fom LRA
Moderator: Micka
Hey Mick, I thought you went to the big RHS to suit the 'boxyness' of the Rangie styling. What's up with those massive round corners? I understand the functional reason for them, but sorry they look right out of place. 
IMHO some square cut corners would have been much better (like your 'concept' sketch).
But seein as you've gone this far
IMHO some square cut corners would have been much better (like your 'concept' sketch).But seein as you've gone this far
Leave mud piles in the work carpark.
My sketch was exactly that done in about 2 secs in pint brush just to show the basic shape. I was always going to have a dove tail rear end and all the hundreds of trays pics i looked at i liked the round ended ones. IN hindsight square end would have been a hell of a lot easier but i like a challenge!LincolnBlack wrote:Hey Mick, I thought you went to the big RHS to suit the 'boxyness' of the Rangie styling. What's up with those massive round corners? I understand the functional reason for them, but sorry they look right out of place.
But seein as you've gone this far
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
Day 23
What do you guys think about this front mount? I know it will take a load form above but i am not sure about the side ways strength I was thinking of putting a X between the 2 mounts but i have a feeling that if i rest the tray on something hard enough i will tear the factory mount off not mine...
I started the lower section this arvo but i cant do much more until i get the long range tank in place...
This is how it's mounted to the rear. I uses the same bolt holes as the tow bar would.
Mick
What do you guys think about this front mount? I know it will take a load form above but i am not sure about the side ways strength I was thinking of putting a X between the 2 mounts but i have a feeling that if i rest the tray on something hard enough i will tear the factory mount off not mine...
I started the lower section this arvo but i cant do much more until i get the long range tank in place...
This is how it's mounted to the rear. I uses the same bolt holes as the tow bar would.
Mick
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
OMFG that looks dodge.... firstly you'll need some grade 12 bolts.. not Zenith gal onesmickrangie wrote:Day 23
What do you guys think about this front mount? I know it will take a load form above but i am not sure about the side ways strength I was thinking of putting a X between the 2 mounts but i have a feeling that if i rest the tray on something hard enough i will tear the factory mount off not mine...
...secondly, I dont reckon there will be much sideways strength there at all.. I would be bracing it more.. either X or at least a thick gusset back towards the chassis somehow...
Looking hot though
If you can't weld to the chassis, can you bolt through the chassis and cut existing mounts off? If so, you could extend the legs down along the side of the chassis, and bolt right through.... That with a cross brace would be pretty strong.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
Will ask the engineer at some stage. But yes if can bolt it may workRangingRover wrote:If you can't weld to the chassis, can you bolt through the chassis and cut existing mounts off? If so, you could extend the legs down along the side of the chassis, and bolt right through.... That with a cross brace would be pretty strong.
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
I cant see why a couple of holes with crush tubes aka tow bar install/shock mount etc wouldnt be allowed easpecially with a plate either side to strengthen it... aka cheezy sliders and have you got a rear shock mount to fab a tray mount off?If you can't weld to the chassis, can you bolt through the chassis and cut existing mounts off? If so, you could extend the legs down along the side of the chassis, and bolt right through.... That with a cross brace would be pretty strong.
And that tray looks damn sexy mick, nice work!!!! add an air tank under there before you floor it, and make sure some tie down points for the tire.
LED boat trailer lights are the shiz
Simon
Yes to all that you said.
I ran dual rear shocks for a while but they don't have crush can inside the chassis rail.... have to work tomorrow but will send some pics to the engineer and see what he says.... I have a air tank under the pass side sill (orig EAS tank) from what i have worked out i wont have much room under the tray with the spare tyre draw and recessed tool boxes...
Mick
I ran dual rear shocks for a while but they don't have crush can inside the chassis rail.... have to work tomorrow but will send some pics to the engineer and see what he says.... I have a air tank under the pass side sill (orig EAS tank) from what i have worked out i wont have much room under the tray with the spare tyre draw and recessed tool boxes...
Mick
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
these lights are what im getting for mine they have some decent light output except no reverse
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Hella-2379-Stop- ... dZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Hella-2379-Stop- ... dZViewItem
5LTR Rangie
I just had a look at the thread!! OMG i can't believe he sells weld on sliders.... Wanna F#@k yr chassis....... weld to the side of it!! Man i would get an instant fail if i did that on my Rangie.shakes wrote: aka cheezy sliders and have you got a rear shock mount to fab a tray mount off?Simon
Mick
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
Day 25
Pulled a rear spring out to see if the tyre will rub anywhere..
I am happy with that! For those playing at home from the center of the hub to the bottom of the tray i have a little over 720mm.
This was going to be my extra air tank but it failed horribly... leaks internal
Looks good anyway...
These are the new mounts that will be welded to the the rear outriggers.
Will gusset these also.
Mick
Pulled a rear spring out to see if the tyre will rub anywhere..
I am happy with that! For those playing at home from the center of the hub to the bottom of the tray i have a little over 720mm.
This was going to be my extra air tank but it failed horribly... leaks internal
Looks good anyway...
These are the new mounts that will be welded to the the rear outriggers.
Will gusset these also.
Mick
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
Day 26
1/2 completed the front mounting of the tray... i went the shock mount rubbers as i have heap of them in good nick. Spoke to engineer about welding to the round x member and it turned into way too much effort so i have got some U bolts that i will use for the center mount pics in a few days....
Mick
1/2 completed the front mounting of the tray... i went the shock mount rubbers as i have heap of them in good nick. Spoke to engineer about welding to the round x member and it turned into way too much effort so i have got some U bolts that i will use for the center mount pics in a few days....
Mick
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
Mick,
Great build sofar....you mentioned a while ago, about your Wolf 2.1, and no stepper motor control with it.
I have a Wolf 3, running the 3.9 V8 in my County, so no stepper motor control either. When I bought the car, there was some temperature responding auto idle control/air bypass, but to run the aircon, I had to set the idle really high in summer, and the auto idle adjust never worked properly anyway.
Long story short...I scored a discarded Idle air control stepper motor for my Disco 3.9 PLenum setup. Next I bought a stepper motor controller from Ramsey Electronics (they have a shop on ebay). With the controller, I was able to step the pintle all the way out, clean the threads, add some graphite power for lubrication, and hence fixed the reason the thing was discarded in the first place. The controller allows for a remote toggle switch, which I have placed next to the steering column. I now have full manual control of the idle, and can use it for walking the car in low range at higher than idle revs. IWith this setup I can adjust the idle anyway from stall to 4000rpm :-)
Cheers
Andre
Great build sofar....you mentioned a while ago, about your Wolf 2.1, and no stepper motor control with it.
I have a Wolf 3, running the 3.9 V8 in my County, so no stepper motor control either. When I bought the car, there was some temperature responding auto idle control/air bypass, but to run the aircon, I had to set the idle really high in summer, and the auto idle adjust never worked properly anyway.
Long story short...I scored a discarded Idle air control stepper motor for my Disco 3.9 PLenum setup. Next I bought a stepper motor controller from Ramsey Electronics (they have a shop on ebay). With the controller, I was able to step the pintle all the way out, clean the threads, add some graphite power for lubrication, and hence fixed the reason the thing was discarded in the first place. The controller allows for a remote toggle switch, which I have placed next to the steering column. I now have full manual control of the idle, and can use it for walking the car in low range at higher than idle revs. IWith this setup I can adjust the idle anyway from stall to 4000rpm :-)
Cheers
Andre
'85 110 County
How strange is that i was looking for a manual stepper control the other night but i gave up...... you rock!! Do you have a part number on the stepper controller?LRCounty wrote:Mick,
Great build sofar....you mentioned a while ago, about your Wolf 2.1, and no stepper motor control with it.
I have a Wolf 3, running the 3.9 V8 in my County, so no stepper motor control either. When I bought the car, there was some temperature responding auto idle control/air bypass, but to run the aircon, I had to set the idle really high in summer, and the auto idle adjust never worked properly anyway.
Long story short...I scored a discarded Idle air control stepper motor for my Disco 3.9 PLenum setup. Next I bought a stepper motor controller from Ramsey Electronics (they have a shop on ebay). With the controller, I was able to step the pintle all the way out, clean the threads, add some graphite power for lubrication, and hence fixed the reason the thing was discarded in the first place. The controller allows for a remote toggle switch, which I have placed next to the steering column. I now have full manual control of the idle, and can use it for walking the car in low range at higher than idle revs. IWith this setup I can adjust the idle anyway from stall to 4000rpm :-)
Cheers
Andre
Mick
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
Yep, that's the one. I was going to build my own, but after buying an enclosure to fit it in...and all the parts in small numbers, the parts alone would have cost more than this whole kit including postage to Australia.
If you do buy it, one word of advice. The kit recommends applying power to the stepper motor to "hold" it in place when not actually stepping. This makes the controller chip get and stay very hot. I found that even with no power applied to the stepper, nothing will move it. My return to centre remote toggle (i think they are known as temporary toggle) switch turns power on AND chooses direction when moved up or down. When I am not using it, no power goes to the stepper.
If you do buy it, one word of advice. The kit recommends applying power to the stepper motor to "hold" it in place when not actually stepping. This makes the controller chip get and stay very hot. I found that even with no power applied to the stepper, nothing will move it. My return to centre remote toggle (i think they are known as temporary toggle) switch turns power on AND chooses direction when moved up or down. When I am not using it, no power goes to the stepper.
'85 110 County
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