Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hottiemonster wrote: too much $$$ for a full time student.

what are you studying?

hottiemonster wrote:i live in Berwick victoria. how far would bayswater be? i have heard of it but have no idea of where it is.

Not far from berwick at all really.... 20-30 mins..... check out the melways.....

i would say Sandy is probably one of the best to talk to as he unoffically specialises in GQ's..... all the staff have GQ's (interestingly all shortys on 35's), half his customers have GQ's...... plus they don't have any real ties with suppliers so you don't have to worry about being influenced any way.....

sounds good. i might head off to him tomorrow. unless i go 4 wheel driving at gembrook tomorrow. i will post a thing in the trips and see what happens.

Wendle wrote:

hottiemonster wrote: too much $$$ for a full time student.

what are you studying?

accounting at RMIT in melbourne

i was thinking of maybe difering for a year to get some funds together and also casue i am sick of school at the moment, 14 years straight and no break. i am 20 in may.

hottiemonster wrote:sounds good. i might head off to him tomorrow. unless i go 4 wheel driving at gembrook tomorrow. i will post a thing in the trips and see what happens.

wouldn't tomorrow, he won't be there..... its our clubs christmas weekend.... try next week if you can wait......

ok, thanks, what about during the week, or when does he come back?

Yeah any time during the week should be fine.....

so basically ask him all the work necessary to fit either 3" or 4" lift?

can i run 35's later with 3" sus and 2" body?

or what about 34's with just 3" suspension and no trimming?

or 33's just the way to go

hottiemonster wrote:so basically ask him all the work necessary to fit either 3" or 4" lift?

can i run 35's later with 3" sus and 2" body?

or what about 34's with just 3" suspension and no trimming?

or 33's just the way to go

you can fit 3inch yourself, 4 springs and 4 shocks.. 1/2 days work taking care.

you can run 35's with 3 and 2, but still may need to trim.

34's usually measure 34.5 depending on what tire, they are ALL different.


33's work well.. depending on what you want to do.

i have a problem now, i got a leak in the petrol tank :(. i was told that u needed caster plates for a 4" lift. is this true and how much work does that involve?, i think it might just be easiest to fit a 3" ?

hottiemonster wrote:i have a problem now, i got a leak in the petrol tank :(. i was told that u needed caster plates for a 4" lift. is this true and how much work does that involve?, i think it might just be easiest to fit a 3" ?

Fuel Tanks worth stuff all, call an LPG installation place they throw them away... I got one for $15 thru mate at TJM..

Caster for 4in on a shorty yes. How hard, if your asking its too hard.

bogged wrote:

hottiemonster wrote:i have a problem now, i got a leak in the petrol tank :(. i was told that u needed caster plates for a 4" lift. is this true and how much work does that involve?, i think it might just be easiest to fit a 3" ?

Fuel Tanks worth stuff all, call an LPG installation place they throw them away... I got one for $15 thru mate at TJM..

Caster for 4in on a shorty yes. How hard, if your asking its too hard.

i have a LONG range in my SWB Mav i have been told. i want to fix it. it is in the possition on the right hand side of the car under the drivers seat basically but towards the back a little. u should know.

i didnt really want one unless it is the same size, i just wannt get it fixed.

So a caster for a SWB to install is hard?

caster plate for 3", are they required?

Castor Plates for 4 inchs and over suspension lift.

Castor Bushes for 2-3 inch suspension lift

Cheers

there wouldnt be much difference in price between the two would there.

how much extra work would it be to fit caster plates.

how much labour would be involved for a mechanic or speciallist to install?

i went down and saw Sandy today

He gave me lots of helpful information and advice.

He suggested i should do the 2" body lift first quoted $600

Then trim the guards and put new flares on $400

Then wack on 35" tyres $$$$$lots

Then go the 3" suspension lift, most likely get KONI shocks and get Dobinsons springs or something. Fit caster bushes, gearbox crossmember etc.

on the other hand, just get the 3" suspension and wack on 33's

I think that it is not much extra work to fit 35's so i may as well do it if i can find the funds..

Though i just found out that i am starting full time so the $$$ will come in

GQ wrote: Castor Bushes for 2-3 inch suspension lift


Cheers

Never botherd with bushes at all for 2-3 inch lift..

hottiemonster wrote:i went down and saw Sandy today

He gave me lots of helpful information and advice.

He suggested i should do the 2" body lift first quoted $600

Then trim the guards and put new flares on $400

Then wack on 35" tyres $$$$$lots

Then go the 3" suspension lift, most likely get KONI shocks and get Dobinsons springs or something. Fit caster bushes, gearbox crossmember etc.

on the other hand, just get the 3" suspension and wack on 33's

I think that it is not much extra work to fit 35's so i may as well do it if i can find the funds..

Though i just found out that i am starting full time so the $$$ will come in

Did he also quote the engineers Cert you need in that? Then again you need it for 33x12.5s anyway

hottiemonster wrote:i have a LONG range in my SWB Mav i have been told. i want to fix it. it is in the possition on the right hand side of the car under the drivers seat basically but towards the back a little. u should know.

i didnt really want one unless it is the same size, i just wannt get it fixed.

any radiator specialist will be able to weld it up for you.

Brown Davis fuel tanls in Bayswater will fix tanks for you too

Bazzle

yeah sandy said that he can tank it out and give it to someone for them to fix. but yeah i might just go straight to the people. is there anywhere around berwick that does it also. someone closer.

i have looked at the tank with a mate and it seems like it has cracked sorta where the tank joins onto the bar the goes from one side of the car to the other approximately in the middle of it.

cause the car is low at the moment i scrape that sometimes over steep mounds and it must have caught on something and pushed it towards the tank a little and cracked it.

has anyone else had this problem? and how much is costs to fix?

its a bit off the topic but hey, oh well

how much would the engineers cert be? hopefully not to much. do u just need it for the tyres. or also the trimming of the guards too?

casue that will mean i will have to get it done twice :(

get it done all at one hey, to al the work now, get the cirt later, just be good while your driving

how much is one though, if i wait to do it all at once i will be waiting a while casue i think it would cost about 4000-4500. by the time i will save that up i would have to get new tyres in the mean time casue my are just about rooted.

is it possible to run standard koni suspension with adequate guard cut and 2" body lift with 35's casue it seems i will have NO travel at all and become a perminant mud basher until i get some new suspension.

hottiemonster wrote:how much is one though, if i wait to do it all at once i will be waiting a while casue i think it would cost about 4000-4500. by the time i will save that up i would have to get new tyres in the mean time casue my are just about rooted.

Is it possible to run standard koni suspension with adequate guard cut and 2" body lift with 35's casue it seems i will have NO travel at all and become a perminant mud basher until i get some new suspension.

This sport is expensive... This hobby is just as bad. Dont try and build a top comp truck to start with. You will either phuck it up, or waste money... If you dont have the $ to do it right first time all up, it can be worse... And $4000 can blow out to $8000 real fast.

Talk with your insurance company first, lots wont insure over a 50mm lift. Being a student, they may look at it even worse, being broke and shit.

Personally Im not for hacking your car to bits to fit bigger tires.. for one affects resale, and if not done properly looks like shit, and can cause rust.

Get some good tires, MTR's etc and TJM suspension(cheapest).. Start there.. You can always sell tires for good $ second hand.. I've done it, and look in the trader section, theres always tires forsale. Shit Ive got some 2-3inch rear springs here you can have... You pick em up.

The car is more capable than you think with just good tires and suspension. Stick with the 2-3inch lift, and 32s to start with.. That will do you 12-18mths at least, then you will have saved more $... You dont need an engineers for that. 2inch also doesnt cause viabration problems with the tailshafts.

Then go lockers, if thats your route.. The car with lockers and 32's will be LOTS capable..

Then, sell the 32's and 2-3inch lift, if you think its not enough.

Or if you think you have enough $, go the 35's and 4inch lift, and engineers, (around $350-500 depending on who and where).. the car will have to pass a brake and swerve test. That will be around $3500 all up if you get it done, or cheaper if you do it. $1500 for tires, and $2000 for suspension adn panhards etc.

You can run 35's with no lift, if your prepared to cut 90% of the car away..

35's and a lift $4000? I have a bag of grinding sparks forsale.

You were sticking with the TB42 werent you? so no engineers required there. Rebuild and Turbo no engineers..

Its hard, been there done that... I wanted my car to be like Cheezys was when it still resembled a Mav in Yota mthly, the photo with him in the ditch, and the car above...

I did the lift and 33's in one go, areound $380-480 depending but rumours are its going to go thru the roof soon with insurance..

bogged wrote:Or if you think you have enough $, go the 35's and 4inch lift, and engineers, (around $350-500 depending on who and where).. the car will have to pass a brake and swerve test. That will be around $3500 all up if you get it done, or cheaper if you do it. $1500 for tires, and $2000 for suspension adn panhards etc.

You can run 35's with no lift, if your prepared to cut 90% of the car away..

35's and a lift $4000? I have a bag of grinding sparks forsale.

One day Bruce you may supply some accurate information..... instead of all this YMMV!

Firstly you shouldn't need a brake or swerve test for an engineers, I didn't and don't know anyone else who has. Secondly who is really going to bother spending $600 on an engineers for a set of springs???????

2", 3" or 4" lift, is a matter of 4x Springs at around $100 each, thats it. None of the other things have to be done at once. Go some shocks next, then worry about lengthening panards if required. Same with castor and driveshaft angles, doesn't 'have' to be done.

$1500 is a decent estimate for 4 x 35's and rims..... Should get MTR's for that easy.....

Yep, pretty much what I said 3 pages ago ...



... why is this still being discussed?



JUST DO IT ALREADY !!

what happens if u dont get a engineers cert, even for 33x12.5x15?

i think probably 3" sus lift and 33's for now will be fine.

its a good point how is going to take me ages to save it. and i think i might just get some small stuff for now.

if i get some new 3" coils will the standard Koni shocks be rendered useless? or can i use em.

i think i will go with dobinson springs, koni shocks, drop the gearbox thing and caster will be good for now. though that is still about 1500 probably.

then the tyres will be 1200.

bogged wrote:You can run 35's with no lift, if your prepared to cut 90% of the car away..

35's and a lift $4000? I have a bag of grinding sparks forsale.

You were sticking with the TB42 werent you? so no engineers required there. Rebuild and Turbo no engineers..

These won't be necessary for the cert, although a SPOA kit may be needed. I have one in the shed, bought it for the mav never fitted it though, got it off Juilan_4x4, he said it would work.

hottiemonster wrote:i think probably 3" sus lift and 33's for now will be fine.

good choice

hottiemonster wrote:if i get some new 3" coils will the standard Koni shocks be rendered useless? or can i use em.

You should still be able to use them, your wheel travel will be affected, ie not much down travel but heaps of up. But it will still drive.

hottiemonster wrote:i think i will go with dobinson springs, koni shocks, drop the gearbox thing and caster will be good for now. though that is still about 1500 probably.
then the tyres will be 1200.

I believe springs are around $100 each. Shock you can do later. Gearbox packers and caster bushes won't be more than a couple of hundred. So way less than $1500.