Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Don't get all upset now it was just a joke.

And no.

Wider tyre/wheel combos will probably have the most affect on bump steer.

hey my thread is back i thought it got deleted in the big crack down. lol

that purple zook doesnt look to bad with the tj flares. as my car is a narrow track i just ended up getting wide track flares then ill run some rubber of them. should do for now.
my car is fully stripped at the moment any way as im giving her a coat of paint. just have to finish panel beating all the dents that i put in it 4WD'n

GRPABT1 wrote:Don't get all upset now it was just a joke.

And no.

Wider tyre/wheel combos will probably have the most affect on bump steer.

i have nothing against the Calmini 5 incher, i plan on going down that path once i get my tax return... yay, only a few weeks to go.

how do you find the lift??

Being LWB, i'm hoping the shackle reversal will be a massive improvement in ride quality. considering all of the negative feedback seems to revolve around suzuki's being to short for the S/R to work.

Have you got yours engineered? or looked into it?

Cheers, Pixie

get ready for headaches with a shackle reversal.

joeblow wrote:get ready for headaches with a shackle reversal.

He he... the Voice of Doom hath spoken

I whacked a set of 235s onto the Jimny the other day, then headed straight up to QLD. I had a T/Dog SV dampner put on it and figured it would all be good.
Hit a rough patch near Bowral and skittered across two lanes... WTF????!!!... pulled over and checked the tyre pressures... FIFTY PSI

It's amazing what taking 22psi out will do for bump-steer

Squik wrote:

joeblow wrote:get ready for headaches with a shackle reversal.

He he... the Voice of Doom hath spoken

I whacked a set of 235s onto the Jimny the other day, then headed straight up to QLD. I had a T/Dog SV dampner put on it and figured it would all be good.
Hit a rough patch near Bowral and skittered across two lanes... WTF????!!!... pulled over and checked the tyre pressures... FIFTY PSI

It's amazing what taking 22psi out will do for bump-steer

not wrong squik....oh....but 50 does so much for my fuel economy....freakin dangerous fools.....

just adding to the topic.......

"Bump Steer" - its not skittering across the road as typically caused by rock hard tyres / suspension.

Its technically steering angle changes caused by suspension movement in either direction

Live axle vehicles do it as one end of the drag link is attached to the chassis ( Pitman Arm actually ) whilst the other is onto the tie rod. or hub. Changes in suspension height, change the drag link angle thus varying its horizontal length which pushes / pulls on the steering creating directional changes.


The behavior is minimised by having a tie rod that is parallel to the chassis / axle at normal ride height if bump and droop travel are identical.

Well there are threads on here about it but here goes. It's good if you need a bolt on proposal, but it has a few faults. Firstly the front was hgiher than the rear even with a steel whinch bar, whinch big battery, heavier motor etc, this was fixed by removing a leaf from each pack on the front and now flexes nicely and sits level. Secondly the rear shocks fouled on the brake line brackets and dinted the shock a little before I noticed and flattened the brackets (apparently a common prob with big shocks but calmini don't mention this). Thirdly if you want to run decent size tyres you'll have to move the front axle forward as the nature of the reverse shackle is to bring the tyre toward the firewall on compression, I did this buy re-drilling the spring plates and a big hammer on the firewall but there are many ways. Lastly you will have to modify your ARB bar if you have one as the shock mounts bolt on in the same area.

Other than that as a bolt on proposal for someone like me with a carport and only simple hand tools and no help it's pretty good. But now in hindsight I would buy a welder, grinder and go about it differently.

And no it's not a "massive" improvement in ride quality but helps a little and seeing as I'm in QLD you can guess the rest...

Pixie-LWBZOOK wrote:

GRPABT1 wrote:Don't get all upset now it was just a joke.

And no.

Wider tyre/wheel combos will probably have the most affect on bump steer.

i have nothing against the Calmini 5 incher, i plan on going down that path once i get my tax return... yay, only a few weeks to go.

how do you find the lift??

Being LWB, i'm hoping the shackle reversal will be a massive improvement in ride quality. considering all of the negative feedback seems to revolve around suzuki's being to short for the S/R to work.

Have you got yours engineered? or looked into it?

Cheers, Pixie

Okay question:

What is the correct procedure or way of checking the amount of shims needed for Kin-pin bearings....? Could the amount of play in them if they were wrong affect wheel bearing life.....?

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:Okay question:

What is the correct procedure or way of checking the amount of shims needed for Kin-pin bearings....? Could the amount of play in them if they were wrong affect wheel bearing life.....?

Not sure on the technically correct procedure but all I do is assemble swivel hubs with new bearings and then swing through its full range of movement.
If it won't move or feels notchy, add a shim to the top.
If one shim isn't enough to make it smooth, add another shim to the bottom and so on until it feels smooth with no play.
Jas

GRPABT1 wrote:Don't get all upset now it was just a joke.

And no.

Wider tyre/wheel combos will probably have the most affect on bump steer.

Incorrect/poor steering and suspension geometry are the root cause of bump steer. Bigger tyres/rim offset just exagerate the problem.


Layto....

I got what might be the most "silly" question... 85 Nt, swb zuki. is there a trick to getting the water to run out from the intake for the heater? when it rains (living in Tas so most days) water runs down the screen and through the grill bit there, into the heater box and on to the floor.

THERE must be a hole for the water to run out.

..."looks out side, ohh and it's raining... nother duey ride home"

FC3892 wrote:THERE must be a hole for the water to run out.

Just take the bungs outta the floor, problem solved!!

There's 2 rubber drains on the bottom front corners of the heater box, they come out on the engine side of the firewall as a little downward facing rubber elbow with a flap on it about 1" diameter, make sure these are clear and connected snugly to the heater box. Should fix the problem unless the plastic duct under the air inlet grille is broken and the rain is just coming straight around the heater box and falling on the floor.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:There's 2 rubber drains on the bottom front corners of the heater box, they come out on the engine side of the firewall as a little downward facing rubber elbow with a flap on it about 1" diameter, make sure these are clear and connected snugly to the heater box. Should fix the problem unless the plastic duct under the air inlet grille is broken and the rain is just coming straight around the heater box and falling on the floor.

Steve.

Wo k. will have a look at smoko, the amount that comes in ide say the grille is cracked or just not there lol. if it's wet out side ie rain, or washing it. floor is wet with in 3 seconds...

Thanks
Adam

If the drains are missing/disconnected the amount of water coming in will be exactly the same as if the plastic duct was missing under the grille the base of the screen.

It's all got to go somewhere...

Steve.

Had a quick look, the lil out lets on the motor side of the firewall are ok, pulled the other side of it off, that runs up to where the water would sit. solid! mud.... owww might have to pull the box out and clean all the piping up. less i can get in there and scrap it out.
Thanks for the help

Adam

Just get in there and clean it out. you do not, repeat do not want to pull the heater box out. it's a massive job.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:Just get in there and clean it out. you do not, repeat do not want to pull the heater box out. it's a massive job.

Steve.

ok, crossing that off my things to do list!!!!

hey steve..i hear thats how some people solve that problem...by putting in a gti motor...

Pfft heater? You mean my dizzy cap recess lol....And mod plated and everything!

after it rains and i go around a left-hand corner i get water dripping down onto my right foot (on accelerator)...
Cant figure out where its comin from... could this be a 'heater' thing or is that more towards the centre of the dash rather than the far right..? Anyone>?

after it rains and i go around a left-hand corner i get water dripping down onto my right foot (on accelerator)...
Cant figure out where its comin from... could this be a 'heater' thing or is that more towards the centre of the dash rather than the far right..?

Dude our Suzys must be sisters... Mine same. Runs under the window seal i think.
I installed a shammy under the dash! Fixed!

Dee wrote:after it rains and i go around a left-hand corner i get water dripping down onto my right foot (on accelerator)...
Cant figure out where its comin from... could this be a 'heater' thing or is that more towards the centre of the dash rather than the far right..? Anyone>?

Well i had that going on aswell.......... BUT i got on to it last night. wire up the pipe and made a lil hole...then flushed it from the top(bonnet down the grill) and bottom ( the hole that faces to the fire wall under the dash), now it's spot on!!!! rained last night with over 100k winds and floor was dry!!!!!! winner

Thanks for the help
Adam

can someone tell me when the WT sierras when from metal flares to plastic ones?
and as i bought some allready i was going to just make the brackets to mount them on but as im lazy does anybody know if u can buy them new and where from.
or just a picture of what the brackets should look like. im guessing they are just a lot bigger than my NT ones.

lexplay wrote:can someone tell me when the WT sierras when from metal flares to plastic ones?
and as i bought some allready i was going to just make the brackets to mount them on but as im lazy does anybody know if u can buy them new and where from.
or just a picture of what the brackets should look like. im guessing they are just a lot bigger than my NT ones.

1988 is the widetrack plastic flare model...

They don't have normal widetrack sized flanges on the driveshafts too - just to make things interesting.

so 88 only or like 88 up to 90 or something.

so does any body have a rusty old WT chassis they could drill these brackets of for me. for some coin of course.

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:Okay question:

What is the correct procedure or way of checking the amount of shims needed for Kin-pin bearings....? Could the amount of play in them if they were wrong affect wheel bearing life.....?

yes, and setting this wrong will seriousley affect the life of the bearings.

set it all up with new bearings in, no grease, no felt seals, no axel. use a spring scale (can be found in fishing shops) to pull from the tie rod end. it should measure 4.8 - 8.7 kg. add / remve shims equally as nessary.

i did mine last weekend and had to remove all of my shims to get the correct tourque.

metal flares are crap....always bend...gettin hard to find....

lexplay wrote:so 88 only or like 88 up to 90 or something.

so does any body have a rusty old WT chassis they could drill these brackets of for me. for some coin of course.

dude, u want to have a look at some of the WT brackets?

I have some separate to the body at mine if u want to have a gander. i "may " be able to bring one in to show ya