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Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 5:33 pm
by brendan_h
thanks.ive sent him an email

Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 7:10 pm
by Gwagensteve
Open up the spring clamps - you'll pick up more droop.

You look to be getting fairly good travel now. I agree there's more droop to be had in the shackle angle, but I'd optimise what you have there now - sort the steering, diff breather and brake lines and shock lengths- before you stress about chasing another couple of inches of droop with mix and matched leaves, which is all you'll get- a couple of more inches.

Do some measuring- you might be able to lower the top shock mount to save you buying longer shocks. Next time you flex the car up fully like that, measure how much shock shaft you have showing on the compressed side. anything more than 1" means you can lower the top mount the difference.

Best idea is to reverse the car up a bank and make sure the drooped wheel is off the ground with the shock off. When you're like this you still need to see 1" of shock shaft.

Oh and a note about the bumpstops - The best leverage will be had if all the spacer is between the chassis and the bumpstop - no spacer on the axle at all. It won't make a massive difference, but it will help a bit.

Remember, every time you make a change for more articulation, the compressed shock length you have to work with will get shorter at the same time the extended length will get longer.

Best case is to do all the work to your steering, bumpstops, brake lines, open the spring clamps, then back it up a bank and work out the shock length you need. You need to take 2 measurements - travel, and compressed length.

If the travel figure you need means you need to move the mounts, you'll only need to do it once and you'll ensure you buy a shock long enough to do the job rather than working with what you have, which I think won't be long enough.

Steve.

Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 8:51 pm
by brendan_h
i have more then 1inch shock showing on full compression. moe like 3inchs or more. i just need to work out how to lower the shock tower

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 5:36 am
by 11_evl
if your going to keep flexing it up with no shocks i recomend getting longer brakelines B4 you do it again.... streching them like in your pics is painfull to look at, not very safe afterwards either...
or at a min at least take the clip off the back and let the pipe hang out!!!

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:55 am
by Gwagensteve
brendan_h wrote:i have more then 1inch shock showing on full compression. moe like 3inchs or more. i just need to work out how to lower the shock tower
That's good - your shocks are likely to be close to the correct length then. Lowering the shock tower is a tricky one- that's a cast 40 series mount that's been welded on judging by your photo. You're problemy best to fabricate something new if you want to keep running the shocks that are in it.

If that's too hard you might be able to run a longer shock on the existing mounts, but wait until you have everything else sorted before you worry about that- like I said, once you have everything sorted you might find that 3" has come down a fair bit and in fact you need to raise the top mount more or lower the bottom mount to fit in a long enough shock.

Steve.

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 3:11 pm
by brendan_h
though i would bring this back.

got the shocks mounted fine and should be alright.. havent tested it yet as ive had to sort out other problems.

my main problem now is my front uni angles. it might not be a problem as i havent tested it but i say its going to be a problem. it does have a big spacer in and it could be causing big angle


as you can see there only about 4mm befor the uni is going to bind

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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:55 pm
by zook4fun
put you spacer on your transfer end. for some reason it helps, don't know why

Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:15 pm
by brendan_h
i did have it at the tcase end but made the shaft hit the crosmember even worse so il gana mod the crossmember

Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 3:56 pm
by mad zook
sorry wrong section

Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:42 pm
by brendan_h
well finaly got it the way i wanted it (for now). could gain a little bit more flex by opening up the back spring clamp. but my shocks are very very close to the springs so i think i will leave the shut

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Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:58 pm
by lay80n
Make sure that the corner of the spring plate doesnt dent the shock absorber.

Layto....

Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 5:16 pm
by brendan_h
lay80n wrote:Make sure that the corner of the spring plate doesnt dent the shock absorber.

Layto....
you havent read 'dinted my shocks' yet have you. got that sorted