Outer Limits 4x4 Board

nice pics. they at "the levels" at wyoming? used to drive a charade over the levels daily to get to work

is the lock out pin on both sides? does it have a rubber bush in it? is it locked out with a bolt?

you only lock one side. it locked the whole thing out all it works is a pin inside the cylinder that you screw in and it locks into the bit welded to the diff.

works great.

And yes thats the levels, it was extremly hard at one point but its now back to being quite easy to do again.

but there is a few spots that you can play on including the ditch at the top

has anyone run one of these with a superior diff brace kit?? looks like the arm will not fit across the front diff brace??

how close does it sit to the front of the pumpkin??

very close, if you have anything sitting on the front it won't clear. looked at teh snake Racing diff brade and it won't clear that

Because the X-link is so beefy it does a lot of diff gaurding on it's own

hey ppl i currently have a superflex arm fitted with drop boxes,
but find you need a fair bit of weight on it too make it flex is this the same for the x link.
would it flex alot easier as im thinking of swapping to x link

milla1122 wrote:hey ppl i currently have a superflex arm fitted with drop boxes,
but find you need a fair bit of weight on it too make it flex is this the same for the x link.
would it flex alot easier as im thinking of swapping to x link

You may find it's the springs that are to stiff causing the problems.

Cheers Mick.

i have superflexy dobbinsons all around so its not that. My pic on the left has the superflex arm with the superflexy coils all round and the back wheel is about to leave the ground and the front is not even tucking into the guard

milla1122 wrote:i have superflexy dobbinsons all around so its not that. My pic on the left has the superflex arm with the superflexy coils all round and the back wheel is about to leave the ground and the front is not even tucking into the guard

Rear suspension design is far less resistant to roll/flex than the radius arm front.

zookimal wrote:

milla1122 wrote:i have superflexy dobbinsons all around so its not that. My pic on the left has the superflex arm with the superflexy coils all round and the back wheel is about to leave the ground and the front is not even tucking into the guard

Rear suspension design is far less resistant to roll/flex than the radius arm front.

bingo!
actually running properly matched spring rates front/rear will help not only with flex but the all-round driveability if the truck. Have found going from 240/lb/in rears to 350lb/in rears not only made the rig better at high speed but heaps better at flexy crawling stuff. Nissan rears springs are very close together on the rear diff so its almost impossible to have one with crap flex in the rear.....

i have great flex in the back so you saying put harder springs in the back to put more pressure on the front when flexing ???? thats what i was thinkin cause the back flexes driving over a speed hump

milla1122 wrote:i have great flex in the back so you saying put harder springs in the back to put more pressure on the front when flexing ???? thats what i was thinkin cause the back flexes driving over a speed hump

I know it sounds weird but, more often then not suspension suppliers don't have a clue as to how real rigs go! when is the last time you have heard a suspension shop ask you about anti-pitch?? yet 99% of us nissan owners have felt it oh so often, when scooting down the road and over a series of bumps the arse end want to skip and buck and try and overtake.

1MadEngineer wrote: bingo!
actually running properly matched spring rates front/rear will help not only with flex but the all-round driveability if the truck. Have found going from 240/lb/in rears to 350lb/in rears not only made the rig better at high speed but heaps better at flexy crawling stuff. Nissan rears springs are very close together on the rear diff so its almost impossible to have one with crap flex in the rear.....

If you need heavy duty rear springs can you run soft spings in the front or are medium duty a better option?

Question, with an X link pivoting in the centre. Forcing one arm down as the opposit comes up. Dose the arm travelling upward get forced into the diff housing??

This pic shows how much more the arms have moved down without the lockout pin. Is the same upward? Not much room on drivers side for the arm to move upward.
For example, where the radius arm mount has been removed to fit X link, what stops the arm from pushing into the diff housing on max flex? Its no longer at a fixed point, nothing in the way for it to travel down but what about going up?

the arm almost contacts the diff, with one arm going down the other coming up the diff also goes up at the same time, there is little room between the arm and the diff, however the X-Link does stop it from hitting as it does have a bit of a limit on how far up it can go

Has anyone bent a radius arm yet? Interested to here from those who are running stock arms, as some have reported quite bad flex in the arms themselves (realise you can't have the best of everything, but wondering if it's become an issue yet?)


Cheers,
Dave

i haven't bent my arm's as yet.
but i am keeping an eye on them..