Outer Limits 4x4 Board

grimbo wrote:

GRPABT1 wrote:Really it depends on what you want in a 4wd grimbo. As far as towing and long distance comfort are concerned then I am sure the Bundera is a better 4wd than a sierra. But from a zook owners perspective where hardcore tracks are all that matter than year zook pwns a bundy

well at the start of this thread you were saying you wanted a 4wd to tackle hard core tracks, hence the SPOA questions.

If you are now changing direction and wanting a tow and long distance tourer then the Bundera still isn't a good 4wd. They are gutless, slow and uncomfortable. they have a short wheel base and crappy suspension design so will be uncomfortable for long distance driving. If you want comfort then you need a lwb, the further you sit from the axles the more comfortable the ride.

Umm it wasn't me asking... I was just stating that while I agree that there are better 4by's than a bundy in every aspect that they are not crap compared to a sierra in some respects.

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Gwagensteve wrote:And whenever people start saying Snake histeer, new brakelines, Bonz-eye springs, bumpstops, shocks, driveshafts etc the peanut gallery pipes up with the "did it in an afternoon with a mate and a slab" and "it flexes unreal, never falls over, drives like a sports car youse lot don't know anything"

So, a correctly done spoa has springs designed for the application, with a higher rate and a military wrap to help control axlewrap.
bumpstops correctly placed
correct length driveshafts and caster angles,
shock absorbers that are the correct length and valving for the new, higher rate springs.
It has commercially made or properly engineered hi steer that does NOT attach to the brake caliper, or use hogged out holes in stuff from 30 year old road cars.

It has new brake lines.

It does not use long, floppy, whacky, folder, scissor or otehr dumb shackles.

There... that's a start.

Now watch for the responses with "mine doesn't have any of that and it will sh1t all over your dumb SPUA victorian junk....

Steve.

with the bonz-eyes springs they state that they are lifted 2inchs. with a SPOA the last thing you want is 2inch lifted springs.

my spoa has correct length rear shaft but i am working out the front shaft after doing a mini ruf. havent got enough slip in the slip yoke

brendan_h wrote:with the bonz-eyes springs they state that they are lifted 2inchs. with a SPOA the last thing you want is 2inch lifted springs.

But they are wrapped in the opposite direction negating the extra lift.

by wrapped in the opposit direction you mean the eyes on them? how they look stupid?

do you have or have seen these springs first hand? do you think they would be fine for a ruf? i dont see a problem

hey all, first yes ive read the bible and tried to find answers not sure if it didnt register or what, personally i would like a SPOA and think i would do it one day in the future, i was looking at my sierra and just wondering why you need a high steer? which part is the problem with the normal steerng set up? looking at mine it looks like the whole steer system would fit under the springs.
also about the "propper length" drive shaft, i wouldnt really want to weld that myself so what is the propper length or can you find another drive shaft that wold suit it?
thanks.

The problem is bumpsteer and the drag link will hit the spring at full compression/full lock. a Z link fixes the clearance problem but not the bumpsteer.

Driveshaft modifications cost from $120 per shaft upwards depending on the condition of your shaft and whether you need a CV joint to eliminate binding at the axle end or not.

Steve.

VaJJ wrote:hey all, first yes ive read the bible and tried to find answers not sure if it didnt register or what, personally i would like a SPOA and think i would do it one day in the future, i was looking at my sierra and just wondering why you need a high steer? which part is the problem with the normal steerng set up? looking at mine it looks like the whole steer system would fit under the springs.
also about the "propper length" drive shaft, i wouldnt really want to weld that myself so what is the propper length or can you find another drive shaft that wold suit it?
thanks.

for starters there are people on here who have done it and when they sugest hi-steer there is a reason. and unless you are a really good welder don't attemp steering yourself. must be school holidays again.

haha well yeah it is holidays but im not a school leaver, just finished a uni degree. i do have decent skills at welding (more than average) have been learning lots of fabricating stuff but no i was not thinking of welding it myself, was just asking a question
thanks Gwagensteve for actually giving an answer, i hate all these other stupid replies which dont actually answer anything, those comments are what make the "Bible" and finding anything in it so difficult, you read 10 useless comments to 1 good one, cough cough blowjoe.

joeblow wrote: must be school holidays again.

Two more weeks up here for us guys....

Just imagine where your drag link (steering arm) swings from left to right underneath your 4by uninterrupted with nothing in its way, then you change the engineering of what the car was and put leaf springs in its way when you want to now turn your car left there is a leaf pack in its way, and it now causes troubles in the whole setup of your car. Go look at a Hilux which is standard SPOA, it almost has a totally different steering method for this reason. The Sierra steering system was designed for SPUA the Hilux was made for SPOA vehicle

You cant get around a SPOA with out High steer really because your drag link on lock will hit your springs normally even without lift. I have been lucky enough to experience all of these situations, starting with SPOA no pitman arm and a drag link that hit the springs turning left. So we put a slight bend in the drag link. Then when I was out wheeling with certain flex it was still doing it and the bend drag link was looking dodgy. So next I tried the dropped pitman arm and drag link, same thing again still rubbing on the springs on flex. So next Sierra started of with a Z link, wasn't too bad except for it was again dodgy I had bump steer and as a requirement of a registration and engineers report I could pay for x rays and all this other work to try and say it was safe or spend less money and buy the Snake Racing High steer kit. I bought the kit which turned up a week later and fitted it all up within 2hours of work.

So if you wanted to you could take the advice from people that have gone through all these problems, not to mention braking numerous tools trying get the pitman arm of to fit the new drop pitman arm. Or you go through it all yourself, and try talking some one else out of going through it all in a few years time after you wasted almost as much money trying to get around the High steer kit to start with.

kewl thanks, see that was a good useful answer the other guy just said there is a reason why you go high steer but didnt tell the reason, just when i was looking at mine it looked like the wheels would hit the springs before the drag link but i wouldnt want the bump steer anyway. thanks for that.

VaJJ wrote:i wouldnt want the bump steer anyway. thanks for that.

Well if your after a Z link I can sell you a perfectly dodgy one has been sitting in my shed since i went High steer, I take no liability for it falling apart and you crashing into a tree though...

There you go found the picture a billion pages back in photobucket when I had the Z link you can see where it drops down under the spring so it doesn't hit in on lock.

haha nah im good. think i would go with the highsteer when i eventually do it, would like to find a sierra to work on.

a small story about dodgey Z links
a mate of mine has a lwb with spoa. his dodgey Z link snapped at 60 kph on a long bend about 6 months ago. his car is still being rebuilt as it rolled into a drain on the side of the road. luckily he wasn't injured.

Have a good look around here

http://128.83.80.193/scarysteering/index.html

not so cool now...

double post

GRPABT1 wrote:Have a good look around here

http://128.83.80.193/scarysteering/index.html

not so cool now...

A bit like being the most northern member, what a retard.

I never said I was most northern, just in the hottest stinking town. Come to Brownsville and you will know what I mean.

hey guys
i didnt want to start a new thread so i want to ask here. a mate of mine is about to purchase another sierra and wants to go SPOA as his first mod. He wants it done professionally to which is a wise move. Now im just after the cost, drive in drive out with stock suspension. Somewhere like 4Play???

lockdup wrote:hey guys
i didnt want to start a new thread so i want to ask here. a mate of mine is about to purchase another sierra and wants to go SPOA as his first mod. He wants it done professionally to which is a wise move. Now im just after the cost, drive in drive out with stock suspension. Somewhere like 4Play???

I don't own a shop - but at a guess, a shop might charge approx $1,000 per day, and i would imagine that to do properly there would be 1 to 2 full days work in it... maybe even more if they work as slowly as i do.

p.s. this mate of yours needs to buy tyres as his first mod. All good builds start with a set of tyres. Once you have the tyres you want to fit, everything else can be set out from there.

lockdup wrote: He wants it done professionally to which is a wise move. Now im just after the cost, drive in drive out with stock suspension. Somewhere like 4Play???

Its a good move, make sure you get him to have them sort out the engineers report for it as well. My first Sierra I got the spring perches from Snake Racing, and had them welded by a qualified and very experienced welded. I also organised pretty much most of the other gear at the same time. Your mate might find it a little cheaper if he collects all the gear himself and then takes it some where to have it all fitted. Don't go any thing less than 4mm for the spring perches if he plans on having them made.

lockdup wrote:hey guys
i didnt want to start a new thread so i want to ask here. a mate of mine is about to purchase another sierra and wants to go SPOA as his first mod. He wants it done professionally to which is a wise move. Now im just after the cost, drive in drive out with stock suspension. Somewhere like 4Play???

p.m'd you a link. if your keen let me know.