Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Front axle - $300 complete when u find one
Seal Kit - $100 tops
Springs - $500 new - $50ish junk yard
Steering Arms - $725
Tie Rods - $390
Hangers - $200
Shaft - $100+

$2315

thats not including longs, or arb

bubs wrote:Front axle - $300 complete when u find one
Seal Kit - $100 tops
Springs - $500 new - $50ish junk yard
Steering Arms - $725
Tie Rods - $390
Hangers - $200
Shaft - $100+

$2315

thats not including longs, or arb

i dont think you should include longs or ARB, as we were solely looking at the swap, not the extras.

I think you would need to add about 200 more for hangers and shackles.

So say 2500, then murray said he needs to do the rear aswell, so that still leaves 500 for a rear diff, so definately do able.


NICK

or buy a rusted smashed POS for about 1000, then you got most of the gear you need, front and rear diffs, springs etc.


NICK

NICK wrote:or buy a rusted smashed POS for about 1000, then you got most of the gear you need, front and rear diffs, springs etc.


NICK

i had already thought about that - or just buy a SA truck to start with

It's very complicated on my rig...

The first major pain is the 5x5.5 wheel stud pattern (same as zook). If you use a Yota axle in the front, and do nothing with the rear, you'll need 2 spare tyres...bit impracticle..I haven't been able to find out if the rear stud pattern can be changed...no-one bothers, just goes new axle...cause you want locker too

Shopping list for Axle swap, to get everything right..

2 x Toy Axles
5.29 R&Ps if running 31s, 5.71 for 33s (stock Feroza is 5.29)
Cost to setup the R&Ps in the diff..
Pair Front Wrangler Springs (length is right)
Front spring hangers,shackle hangers,shackles,ubolts
New Front shock mounts
Most likely new shocks
New Wheels as you have changed stud pattern, 5 rims at minimum have to have at least an extra 1.5" backspacing to make up for the fact the Feroza is 3" wider than the toy (58-59").
Brake mods
Somehow adapt the Feroza shaft to the toy axle. Can't use Toy shaft as the slip yoke on the feroza xfer is in the case. Do this front and rear
Steering, Xover or HiSteer Xover depending on how high you go..Xover is fine if the front stays SPUA.
Finally engineers..

The guy in the US who did all this ended up SPOA in the rear and SPUA in the front due to the frame setup. Had to remove a rear xmember. New shocks all round, new shock mounts all round..more cost..

There are probably one or two things I've forgotten as well..but it's a right bitch It's one of the reasons I'm trying to find out what ratio's Rockys run. If they have 5.29 or higher, simply whack some of those in, no need for wheel mods, adding r&ps, width is perfect (same as Feroza), can get detroit lockers.......

murray, im still going to say that it is do able.


NICK

Hmm..might be...I'm saving up my $$ at the moment and am just going to slowly shop for bits over time...won't kill me budget wise that way. Then I'll get an expert to do the hangers while the IFS is still there, drive it home, rip it all off and bolt it up Course won't be that easy..but that's the general idea..

I might drop by next time I'm up that way Nick (2-3months) and have a chat

yeah sure, drop buy.


but heres alittle more food for thought, buy a POS for a grand, that way you get your diffs, axles, rims. sell the centres and other parts to cover the cost of 5.71. you still only spent 1000, then 1000 for tyres, and you still got 1000 to go.

Stick to 3000


NICK

Ferwoaza wrote:It's very complicated on my rig...

The first major pain is the 5x5.5 wheel stud pattern (same as zook). If you use a Yota axle in the front, and do nothing with the rear, you'll need 2 spare tyres...bit impracticle..I haven't been able to find out if the rear stud pattern can be changed...no-one bothers, just goes new axle...cause you want locker too

Shopping list for Axle swap, to get everything right..

2 x Toy Axles
5.29 R&Ps if running 31s, 5.71 for 33s (stock Feroza is 5.29)
Cost to setup the R&Ps in the diff..
Pair Front Wrangler Springs (length is right)
Front spring hangers,shackle hangers,shackles,ubolts
New Front shock mounts
Most likely new shocks
New Wheels as you have changed stud pattern, 5 rims at minimum have to have at least an extra 1.5" backspacing to make up for the fact the Feroza is 3" wider than the toy (58-59").
Brake mods
Somehow adapt the Feroza shaft to the toy axle. Can't use Toy shaft as the slip yoke on the feroza xfer is in the case. Do this front and rear
Steering, Xover or HiSteer Xover depending on how high you go..Xover is fine if the front stays SPUA.
Finally engineers..

The guy in the US who did all this ended up SPOA in the rear and SPUA in the front due to the frame setup. Had to remove a rear xmember. New shocks all round, new shock mounts all round..more cost..

There are probably one or two things I've forgotten as well..but it's a right bitch It's one of the reasons I'm trying to find out what ratio's Rockys run. If they have 5.29 or higher, simply whack some of those in, no need for wheel mods, adding r&ps, width is perfect (same as Feroza), can get detroit lockers.......

i've got a set of rocky diffs(disc rear with 4 15x8 alloy wheels) sitting in darwin

just a question..
You made mention that you are using chrome moly lower control rods on the truck diff mod
What grade type and size if chromo bar you using,,
Is it hollow section or solid bar
How thick and what type of material are using on the top a frame assembly..
only reason i ask is i havent seen to much of it up close and personal and i wouldn't mind doing something like that of duncan scotts ' 75 tray of macquire 4x4 with the rear and the front...which participated in the tuff truck challenge last year...and is shown in issue 49 of 4x4 monthly...

Or is there anyone in brisbane that can give me a guided tour of the drastic mods up close and personal like..

cheers

The chromo trailing arms are solid, i'm not sure on the diameter, i had them made by snake racing - email - sales@snakeracing.com.au
or for up your way i'm sure richard at 4x4 engineering would be able to sort something out. The A frame is made from around 40mm tube, with a 4mm wall thickness, i don't think this will be strong enough in the long run but at this stage it's all testing so we'll see what happens. Found out this afternoon that it'll have to be remade anyways, so i may make it outa thicker stuff this time. Cheers, Jeremy

Surfection wrote: Found out this afternoon that it'll have to be remade anyways, so i may make it outa thicker stuff this time. Cheers, Jeremy

Why what is wrong with the one you have now?

It doesn't quite line up...... i had the most farked up day, nothing went right then when dan and i tried to fit the A frame with the new H/T bolts i got [right size this week] and it wouldn't go in i got the shits with it and cracked open the bourbon..... i'll worry about it tomorrow, not sure whether i want to heat and bend the existing one or just make another one. More details as they come to hand.
It's not actually that bad, we can get it in there, but it ain't the best when it's under stress just being mounted in there, best to just slow down and remake/mod now so that it just slots in there, less headaches later.
Just a bit dissapointing that's all.

I just so happen to have 1 / 5.71 ring & pinion may even still be in the drop out member if interested PM me.

hmmm...thanx for the info of the tubes sizes...
Ya got me thinking tho when you said

The A frame is made from around 40mm tube, with a 4mm wall thickness

thats reasonably sized tube...
I would assume that should be strong enough

Given the fact that dragsters and tubes chasis races cars are made of similar sized tube with a minimum thickness of 3.2 mm wall on black seamed steel tube for sedans and even thinner for rails...im surprised that you think your aframe with its cross section reinforocement wont be strong enough....

I'm left scratching my head as to why it wouldn't be strong enough...

If 3.2 wall chasis car can handle a honest 1000+ HP and 700 ft/lb's torque..i'm bewildered as to how yours wont.. :!???

No need to go getting all bewildered on us punchy !!
It should be right, for testing at least.. who knows i may leave it that way, but i'm building it for serious work [as you are too] and don't want any comprimises, solid chrome-moly lower links and then an A frame made from 4mm thick tube , the only thing stopping sideways movement of the rear diff and the only thing stopping axle wrap just seems not the right balance to me.
Got a shitload done on it today, only gotta weld up and redrill one mount hole, make up and weld on upper shock mounts, lower bumpstops and make spring locating cones and she'll be set. I'll post pics tomorrow of it finished hopefully. Cheers, Jeremy

Swheeeeeeet...
I look forward to it

OK so here's the latest ones. Got the old girl going yesterday, i think we'll lose a bit of travel with the shocks mounted, which i'm doing today. It was also a bit weird , have a look at the first pic, you can see the front ISN'T working, whereas it always has before, it wasn't till we took it up backwards that the front actually did something. Definatly going to have to play with springs in the front now, i think the back being so crap before was forcing the front to do much of the work. It'll also act differently on the trails so i'll take it out properly next weekend and see what happens.
Note the last photo, that's hypolux having quiet orgasms over driving a coily rig .
Cheers, Jeremy

Is it just me or is there some serious axle steer going on in the front

Looking goo so far tho mate, well done indeed.

It's got a little bit murray but it's nothing to worry about. The rear has a little bit now also but it wn't affect the drivability much.
I don't think it's possible to build a link setup with travel like that [or more] and not have axle steer.

dude that is fawkin siiiik

and those trailing arms, who said to long?

they look about right i reckon :wink:

CMAWWWN UP
you will be playing in the quarry behind my house the day before we head to the proving grounds, and i cleaned the house so it wont look to bad when you and dan come to stay

Surfection wrote:Note the last photo, that's hypolux having quiet orgasms over driving a coily rig .
Cheers, Jeremy

PFFFFFFFTTTTTT!!!!!!

Countdown is on BJ !!!

hell yeah jeremy my countdown started a month ago wen i organised with ruff 2 stay at his place

Surfection wrote:Countdown is on BJ !!!

come get some 8)

I don't know if you should bother going anymore Ben, it'll only make you upset when nobody looks at the hypolux out on the trails :wink:

Surfection wrote:I don't know if you should bother going anymore Ben, it'll only make you upset when nobody looks at the hypolux out on the trails :wink:

its alright mate at least my rig has seen the trails everyweekend since i have owned it

therefore your rig is just BLING BLING

hypolux wrote:

Surfection wrote:Note the last photo, that's hypolux having quiet orgasms over driving a coily rig .
Cheers, Jeremy

PFFFFFFFTTTTTT!!!!!!

LEAF SPRINGS BAY-BEE 8)

Whichever turns your dial, i don't have anything bad to say about leaves these days.

bj on roids wrote:

hypolux wrote:

Surfection wrote:Note the last photo, that's hypolux having quiet orgasms over driving a coily rig .
Cheers, Jeremy

PFFFFFFFTTTTTT!!!!!!

LEAF SPRINGS BAY-BEE 8)

YEAH BAY-BEE YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!