Outer Limits 4x4 Board

essentially you need to clean the diff off completely (or use a bundy diff- are they the same width and drop as a hilux one??), cut all the hangers off for the leafs, convert to an IFS steering box (got that already!) and fit the crossover steering gear, cut the shock towers off, weld on the coil/shock towers, and weld on the rear control arm and panhard rod onto the chassis.

a bundy chassis would come with factory crossover wouldnt it?

possibly- but i recon you'd still need to fit a hilux IFS box to get the swing in the right direction and keep parts compatible with the lux column.

I wonder if you'd need swaybars to pass engineering?

ferrit wrote:

AcTioN13 wrote:as he said he isnt after serious flex or that, and for the cost of about 500 and a bit of work for coil sprung rear its not to bad.

its come at right time for me, almost 100% convinced to keep the hilux now.... almost bought a pootrol

Yeah- it shouldnt come out costing me more than a grand at most.

$500 for runner/surf rear chassis cut
$50 each for tanks? 2nd hand- just get a 90L main tank from any gas fitter thats done an LPG conversion on a V6 90 series
$200 for prado filler neck and solenoid setup, plus wiring and 2nd fuel gauge
$200 new shocks
$200 new springs
$300 steel and sundries

Then you can sell the shocks and springs from the lux (the rears are about a month old, same with shackles, shocks are about 2yrs old- sell the whole shebang for around $400 (springs were $160 each!)

Time to start collecting bits i think... im not allowed to do anything till i get rid of my old 2.8D motor! How the hell can i shift this stupid thing!!!

Thats exactly what i was going by, for the flex you get against cost i had to give it ago... and i do not in any way regret it... the truck is heaps more capable, flexes great, can tow and carry more weight then before and although the trailing arms are short i get more then enought flex on 4" heavy duty coils

There are a few more things that need to be stuffed around with (which are no big deal) etc;

1) the 4 runner runns a different style hanbrake setup to the lux, instead of cable going to the centre of the diff then to the axles, it runs separate cable in tubes that run down each side of the chassy to the centre of the car and you will have to use the 4 runner handbrake pivot arms and cut holes in the cross member (the one the cente bearing is on)
Then use the 4 runner brake bias valve and some of the factory piping

2) you will need new breke lines made up as it is all in a slightly different position

3)The tank i used is a toyota prado rear tank (i picked it up at the lpg conversion places for $15) this runns a EFI pump inside the tank, so depending on how you set up the dual tanks you could use it or as i made it into the main tank i removed it and ran a new pipe to the bottom of the tank in the place of the pump.

4) the fuel puckup and return on the tank is on a type of flange, depends on how you position the tank it has to be unbolted and turned about 90 degrees and a slightly new pcd to be drilled (3/4 of the holes lined up 2 or 3 had to be drilled) then it can be blolted back down.

5) on mine i lifted the tray 2" (i don't already have body lift) so that i could lift the tank as high as possible and then it makes it easier to run the filler lines.

Other than that basically all the job consists of is taking a few measurements before hand and mostly carefully cutting off your leaf spring stuff with out damaging your chassy and cutting away the 4 runner chassy to remove the cross members without damaging them.

Hope this helps.... but thats pretty much it, it took me 2 weeks working on it nearly every day by myself which included putting it on a car trailer and getting brake lines made up and stripping the 4 runner down and cutting the body into 2 piecies with a huge angle grinder
if you need some more pics let me know...
Brad

yeah- Did you end up running the swaybar or wasnt it required?

a 2" body lift is on the cards anyway to help clear the 33's a bit better, and if thats the flex from HD coils colour me impressed! the unladen flex from my HD leafs is about 4" at the most!

i'd probably pick up a diesel pickup from a wreckers for the rear tank so its all kosher for diesel- the fun part will be seeing if theres enough room in the body cavity to fit a dual port filler like the prado runs so i can fill both tanks off one filler point. And since im building this truck to tour its nuts off, the 155L capacity of both tanks is very tempting (makes it only about 25L less capacity than a stock troopy!)

That and resisting the temptation to pilfer bits off dads prado!

Do you have any inclination to do the front end too? or going to keep that as leaves?

ferrit wrote:yeah- Did you end up running the swaybar or wasnt it required?

a 2" body lift is on the cards anyway to help clear the 33's a bit better, and if thats the flex from HD coils colour me impressed! the unladen flex from my HD leafs is about 4" at the most!

i'd probably pick up a diesel pickup from a wreckers for the rear tank so its all kosher for diesel- the fun part will be seeing if theres enough room in the body cavity to fit a dual port filler like the prado runs so i can fill both tanks off one filler point. And since im building this truck to tour its nuts off, the 155L capacity of both tanks is very tempting (makes it only about 25L less capacity than a stock troopy!)

That and resisting the temptation to pilfer bits off dads prado!

Do you have any inclination to do the front end too? or going to keep that as leaves?

No i didn't run the sway bar... but trust me it is probably a good idea, i have a fair bit of body roll, i never put it on becaise a bit of body roll is ok.. i can handle it, it just scares alot of people when i really put it hard into corners
The tank i used for the rear was from a petrol, it does no matter weather it is a petrol tank or a diesel tank, jst wash it out with some diesel if you are worried (i didn't bother just drained it completely)

Nah have no need to do the front end, i have heaps of flex already in the front, i could get more out of the front as it is (same on the rear) but i have not found anything yet that i have driven over that would benefit a more articulation... the front of mine with EFS springs and the little plastic slider plates gives a good ride and is definately just as soft a my mates 6" lifted 80 series.

I done the rear because of a harsh ride and no flex, now i have good ride and heaps of flex- thats enough for me... but every ones different, this is what suits me and if i can follow around 6" lifted cruisers and patrolls with 35's-36's with doube difflocks and me with my 33's drive every thing the same (if not more a couple of times) than i'm impressed.

Brad

The Bundy front is a shite load of work to get in and working 100% I know Bubs and Doug took a while to get his 100%, the end result is great no doubt but for the cost of his front I did TG front and rear kits front airlocker and longfields. Horses for Courses

As for Flex





Youll also notice the lack of rear steer it gets, which is common in a lot of factory coil setups. Plus these were taken when the springs were new it flexes even better now.

I have no dramas with the leafs and with the softer springs and slightly longer wheelbase it rides great on road as well.

hmmm time to sit down and price it up.

and ge rid of the commodore v6, time for a 3rz

Sod the 3RZ- Ive got a 1KZ-TE already!

Well so far im looking at around $500 for the rear chassis cut.

$50 max each for the fuel tanks.

Sod the 3RZ- Ive got a 1KZ-TE already!

Well so far im looking at around $500 for the rear chassis cut.

$50 max each for the fuel tanks.

Hey Boof how cooshy is the trail gear setup ?

Another option for the fuel tank is a gq.

i put one in the rear of a lux with 2 bits of tube and some flat for the brackets and it works great. i will see if i can find some pics.

cheers mark

308LUX wrote:Hey Boof how cooshy is the trail gear setup ?

Very much so its almost comparable to coils, even better with the tyres aired down to 10psi off road. The road through cruiser park no longer knocks fillings out of my teeth

booflux wrote:

308LUX wrote:Hey Boof how cooshy is the trail gear setup ?

Very much so its almost comparable to coils, even better with the tyres aired down to 10psi off road. The road through cruiser park no longer knocks fillings out of my teeth

Yeah shut up... I went 4wding on saturday and since then ive been in constant agony with dicky teeth courtesy of my leaves...

Have a bit of a looky here: http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic167370.php

Another idea, see if you can chase up a chassis from the 4door import early bundera/prados

Good luck with your quest! no doubt it will be awesome

Have a bit of a looky here: http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic167370.php

Another idea, see if you can chase up a chassis from the 4door import early bundera/prados

Good luck with your quest! no doubt it will be awesome ♦

Someone buy my old 3L motor!!!! i need the space in the shed to do the coil conversion!

This is the only pic i have of the gq fuel tank, i will get some more when he comes around again.

cheers mark.

those straps for getting in and out of shed? haha

they is a rolled bundy in the for sale for a $1000 shorley this will have everything you need and then some

why not mod your long range tank its not hard if your handy with the welder as well as run a parado tank

Well this has beeen a very interesting read, especially becuase i am thinking of coiling my Gen 2 lux. My mate has complete running gear (except brakes) from an 80 series cruiser that i can use, so i was thinking of doing that or the trail gear set up. But for the current price of the trail gear front and rear sets i am probably better off going for the coils. This has almost sealed the deal for me. Bar a few measurements next weekend when i go check the gear out. Keep the info coming, i am watching with great interest.

Its alright ill let you in on the ultimate tourer/animal it has been done on hereand intrugued me and the parts are on here at the moment for cheap

80 series chassis with diffs is for sale for $1000, cut hilux mounts of dunger chassis, weld to 80 series chassis, find a 1hzt, ultimate hilux tourer haha, not so simple as stated, but not so hard if you have the tools and time. or a f%%king big wallet.

Waiting on a ifs 4runner rear housing to begin my coil rear end triangulated 4 link, not using the runner arms, BBP Shantytech

hay dougster,
is your nickname dashi
cause your surf is identical to the 1 that my brothers mate has.
and if it is dashi u should know bj and matty v.

[quote="ferrit"]When i can track down the front cut of a bundera, thats the next stage

I want full coils damnit! [/quote

I used a 79 series front cut and put 80 series hubs on it to make it 6 stud again 79 has eye mounts at the chassis end in stead of the pins so it won't bind at flex as much. I also had to cut my steering box out and move it forward to make the coil set up work

berad wrote:Its alright ill let you in on the ultimate tourer/animal it has been done on hereand intrugued me and the parts are on here at the moment for cheap

80 series chassis with diffs is for sale for $1000, cut hilux mounts of dunger chassis, weld to 80 series chassis, find a 1hzt, ultimate hilux tourer haha, not so simple as stated, but not so hard if you have the tools and time. or a f%%king big wallet.

Waiting on a ifs 4runner rear housing to begin my coil rear end triangulated 4 link, not using the runner arms, BBP Shantytech

Yeh definately a nice way to go for an allrounder pity you would have no chance of getting it legal in Qld

83-mud-lux wrote:hay dougster,
is your nickname dashi
cause your surf is identical to the 1 that my brothers mate has.
and if it is dashi u should know bj and matty v.

Been called a lot of things but "dashi" isn't one I remember
I have fallen over BJ and know a few matty's, need to be a bit more specific mate.
Thought mine is unique in Qld. being that it's all engineer approved (few more soon to be built tho)

Would seriously consider going the same way as SHANE055 if I was to do it again tho.

by the looks of it, the rear end is something you can do at home- Not too complex...

The front end however looks like something you send to a fabricators with a big tray full of parts in the bck and telling them "Make this work!"

MY brother and me did my front in the shed at home as long as you think about what your doing and ask the right questions to the right people and do your research it's not that hard