Outer Limits 4x4 Board

That front axle was hell far forward hey..

BLINGIN'

bj on roids wrote:

This is the best picture I have of it, sorry.

So what happens is Feroza arm, then male spline section (from another vehicle) then a part from something with a rag joint bolted to a bit of 8mm or 10mm plate cut in a nice circle and that bolts to the 40 column.

With a bush or something up in the firewall to support the column...

The one I did on my buggy was HEAPS easier...

Importantly it ALL bolted up using factory steering components other than the 8mm plate and it was PERFECT.

Hmmmm interesting, can one get a splined adaptor shaft made up to go between the uni and 'rag'?

Yeah that is definately one way of doing it. Don't quite see it as a "bolt on" though if you have to make a 8mm plate and somehow mate a peice of male spline to it. Definately keen to come have a look now as your pic sucks! Going around to Doug's on Sat night Rob, what are you doing?

If you guys think the rag joint is that much of a problem (I don't, neither did Toyota when they designed the column for the 40 series, 80 series, hilux and probably others) then you could in the same way leave the rag out and use a plate to bolt the flanged 80 uni to the flanged 40 column end. That at least keeps it all yota and negates the need for a male splined shaft to be adapted into the joint.

ray,how do u find the 60,s tilt column in your 40,i have a couple of spare ones here so may go that route with powersteering,even to the point of using the 60 series master cylider and breaks,possably diffs to

I'm actually going the 80 rag as I've already got all the bits, but I like the Feroza shaft as there's unis already in both ends.

richardsc wrote:ray,how do u find the 60,s tilt column in your 40,i have a couple of spare ones here so may go that route with powersteering,even to the point of using the 60 series master cylider and breaks,possably diffs to

60's tilt is sweet, but in my 45 I cut the 60 steering tube and shaft down so as the column is closer to the dash, bit more room

hi stu,i think i will do it to my 45 as well
especially if it gives me more leg room

pcman wrote:wow never knew the 80's had a rag joint aswell as the uni that just seems dodgy to me

and when i did my conversion i ditched the 40 colum and went 75 tilt colum and 75 intermediate shaft no ragjoint in that setup


and ive never seen anyone incorporate the ragjoint into a 40 series power steer setup when using a 60 series box

How bout you change skirts and at least say something like "sorry, I shot my mouth off before I knew WTF I was rabbiting on about".
At least then you would look like a tard with 1/2 a brain ....

Ill have to get more pics there is a part that goes from the male spline to the plate, and it all bolts on...

RAY185 wrote:Yeah that is definately one way of doing it. Don't quite see it as a "bolt on" though if you have to make a 8mm plate and somehow mate a peice of male spline to it. Definately keen to come have a look now as your pic sucks! Going around to Doug's on Sat night Rob, what are you doing?

If you guys think the rag joint is that much of a problem (I don't, neither did Toyota when they designed the column for the 40 series, 80 series, hilux and probably others) then you could in the same way leave the rag out and use a plate to bolt the flanged 80 uni to the flanged 40 column end. That at least keeps it all yota and negates the need for a male splined shaft to be adapted into the joint.

There is a factory yota part that goes on there

RAY185 wrote:Stoive - 80 series pitman arm is flatter but wrong taper for 75 tie rod end. You will need a 80 series tie rod end to go with it which should thread into the 75 drag link. Like Dave (Twisty) did.




Rob: Yeah the 1UZ? Looks horn! Post it up along with those column pics.

thanks for that mate, would the taper be the same on a 60 and 75 series?
that second pic of the 75 arm with the hydro box looks alot like the 80 arm but without the curve

Haha, this thread got intersting all of a sudden.

Stoive: Yeah 75 and 60 have the same taper for the tie rod end. I'm assuming you've got 75 tie rod ends? Maybe try the 75 pitman arm if you can but I think it still has some drop while the 80 is fairly flat. 75 might be enough though and will save you buying a tie rod end too.

Richardsc: I like the 60 column, tilt is definately a handy feature. I havent bothered to cut the column down a bit yet so it does look a little out of place with how far it sits out from the dash. It's good in a 40 and I have the seat most of the way back anyway so its perfect for me. I can definately see why you'd want to cut it down in a 45 though with the lack of room.

We used to turn the dash mount upside down to make more room behind the wheel, lifting the wheel up more.

1 final question (I hope). Where's the pin on the 75 series intermediate shaft that you have to drill out to collapse the shaft? I ain't seeing it. I have a HZJ 75 shaft if that makes any difference.

You might have to give it a bit of a buff to see them. There are 2 and you'll need to drill down maybe 2 or 3mm both sides so it can collapse.

Only pic I have. Already drilled and collapsed.

some great tips,so many options

After buffing and looking, then looking again, then again, I've come to the conclusion that the HJ/FJ intermediate shaft is different to the HZJ 75 shaft that I have, there's no flat section as shown in the pic (it's totally round) and no pins in the HZJ item, so good luck trying to collapse it. Back I go to get this one exchanged...... I hope.

EDIT: Having a squizz on toyodiy and it seems that there's both collapsible and rigid 75 series intermediate shafts, so make sure you get the right one.

hj 45 wrote:After buffing and looking, then looking again, then again, I've come to the conclusion that the HJ/FJ intermediate shaft is different to the HZJ 75 shaft that I have, there's no flat section as shown in the pic (it's totally round) and no pins in the HZJ item, so good luck trying to collapse it. Back I go to get this one exchanged...... I hope.

EDIT: Having a squizz on toyodiy and it seems that there's both collapsible and rigid 75 series intermediate shafts, so make sure you get the right one.

Any chance of a pic of the one you have?

Here's a pic of the middle of the shaft;


The upper part that you see has hardly any taper until the spline at the top which should go into our rag joint.

Managed to find myself a collapsable shaft, but fully collapsed it's still an inch too long and I don't want to put the box any further forward, do you have to shorten the shaft any more after it's collapsed?

As an aside I do have a Feroza shaft sitting here, it'd work with the 80 rag if you do a bit of uni swapping...........hmmm

If your colapsable shaft is still a touch too long then you can just cut down the slip joint to suit at the lower end of the shaft. Pull it apart and you'll find the slip joint is quite long and you can get away with removing a fair bit of material there. 1 inch should be no worries. Let me know if you don't get what I mean.

Yeah I was coming around to that conclusion last night, time to break out the angle grinder.

RAY185 wrote:

Any shots a bit lower than this showing the relationship between the sector shaft and tie rod?

I'm at the mock up stage with my box in this position, with stock bump stops and stock shackles, and it looks like on DS spring compression I'll get interference between sector shaft and tie rod..

Solutions are extend the front shackles, extend the bump stop or move the steering box rearward so that the tie rod goes in front of the sector shaft.. Doing that only gains the thickness of the pitman arm nut and washer, but might be enough to allow it to all work.. This would mean relocation of the shock tower, which I was hoping to avoid.

TIA.

Also, is your front axle in the stock location?

ahh, sorry bud, I missed this the other day. Don't have any more pics of that particular 40 but both mine and that one had the front axle in the stock location, both have extended shackles though. I'll try and snap a few pics of mine when I get a sec.

Thatd be good..

In everything I've read out here about this conversion, nothing has been mentioned about interference, but some pictures of a working setup would be handy.. I'm sure itll be ok and I'm just paranoid.. With the amount of material removed from the shock tower to make the box work in that location, I shouldve just moved the tower in the first place. I'm hoping to keep the battery tray in a raised stock location with the intermediate shaft running under it, hence not wanting moving the shock tower..

On another note, rather than using the 80 cushion joint, I chopped it up and used the small spline yoke from it and a large spline yoke from a 70 intermediate shaft and made a uni to join the 55 column to the 70 intermediate shaft..

I really don't think you have anything to worry about personally. You'd have to have VERY sagged soft springs to get remotely close to touching. Post up a pic of it mocked up?

Here's some pics I just took of mine. Heaps of room. I've edited the first pic to rotate, it will fix itself eventually but for now you might need to rotate your head/monitor.