Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Bloody nice looking housing there bubs.

Bubs,
would there be any advantage in welding axle flanges on the end and using bolt on swivels or knuckles

Serg

uninformed wrote:Bubs,
would there be any advantage in welding axle flanges on the end and using bolt on swivels or knuckles

Serg

The advantage would be that we could use it on a Rover

WICKED wrote:

RUFF wrote:

WICKED wrote:Dates?

You tell me. Your so sure its never been done.

I said never so why would I know when?. You saud it has, you tell me when.

Fu,k it you win. I was always under the impresion that they had driven it home from one which I guess was prob the first one when you guys didnt tow them back

uninformed wrote:Bubs,
would there be any advantage in welding axle flanges on the end and using bolt on swivels or knuckles

Serg

If custom axles were cheap this would be the way to go. Obviously though he could make Toyota housings with flanges to go straight into rovers. You would then supply your own hubs etc. Would make for a very strong Toyota conversion. No need for a bash guard. Possibly better ground clearence. And seeing as you need to buy custom axles for the rover conversion anyway you could make them wider as well.

RUFF wrote:

uninformed wrote:Bubs,
would there be any advantage in welding axle flanges on the end and using bolt on swivels or knuckles

Serg

If custom axles were cheap this would be the way to go. Obviously though he could make Toyota housings with flanges to go straight into rovers. You would then supply your own hubs etc. Would make for a very strong Toyota conversion. No need for a bash guard. Possibly better ground clearence. And seeing as you need to buy custom axles for the rover conversion anyway you could make them wider as well.

I'm loving the idea of a bubs housing, patrol centre, 80 outers with that larger neck size and better bush spacing. I wonder if Bobby long would make an inner axle to a custom length with a normal longfield outers?

bubs wrote:
Like attached without radius arm mounts is $950

considering you can normally pay up to a grand for a pair of standard 80 housings anyway, thats feckin value right there

rockcrawler31 wrote: I'm loving the idea of a bubs housing, patrol centre, 80 outers with that larger neck size and better bush spacing. I wonder if Bobby long would make an inner axle to a custom length with a normal longfield outers?

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/prod ... HAFTS.html


But honestly I still don't get the economics of the nissan diff center??

Surely if you are going to the effort of building/fabricating a new diff then it really isn't any harder to put a 60series center in? and run some highsteer arms and move the panhard and draglink to a better position rather than hanging down in the road of everything?? At least if you run a housing with a face plate style (like bubs / diamond ......) then you later have the option of trimming the face and redrilling for 9" . As 9" and toyota have the same axle centerline depth (ok .001" difference). whereas once you go nissan the face distance is to large to use anything else....

Greg i think the biggest advantage is the High pinion. Lots of people wouldn't be able to run a 60 series centre in the front. Especially if it were in the front of an 80 that was still running constant 4wd.

I know you can set the pinion angle higher but in constant the Uni Joints wont like the angle and the pinion will starve of oil.

1MadEngineer wrote:

rockcrawler31 wrote: I'm loving the idea of a bubs housing, patrol centre, 80 outers with that larger neck size and better bush spacing. I wonder if Bobby long would make an inner axle to a custom length with a normal longfield outers?

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/prod ... HAFTS.html


But honestly I still don't get the economics of the nissan diff center??

Surely if you are going to the effort of building/fabricating a new diff then it really isn't any harder to put a 60series center in? and run some highsteer arms and move the panhard and draglink to a better position rather than hanging down in the road of everything?? At least if you run a housing with a face plate style (like bubs / diamond ......) then you later have the option of trimming the face and redrilling for 9" . As 9" and toyota have the same axle centerline depth (ok .001" difference). whereas once you go nissan the face distance is to large to use anything else....

Well to be honest Mad, I'm not that schooled on diff centres to know that sort of information. But at the very least it's an option on getting the best of all worlds and ironing out factory inadequacies. I don't go in for that whole brand loyalty horsesh*t, the fact is that nissan has some good gear, and where they fall down toyota or other brands have other good points. If using a 60 series centre keeps it all Yota (if only for ease of sourcing parts and interchangeability) then that's the go. On a side note, you mention Hi steer. Are you talking about the Hi steer conversions available for 80 series knuckles or something else?

RUFF wrote:Greg i think the biggest advantage is the High pinion. Lots of people wouldn't be able to run a 60 series centre in the front. Especially if it were in the front of an 80 that was still running constant 4wd.

I know you can set the pinion angle higher but in constant the Uni Joints wont like the angle and the pinion will starve of oil.

I used to think that was the reason too. But after playing with nissan stuff, you quickly realise just how wicked the driveshaft angles get on say a 4-6" lift, especially as (unlike an 80) they cant get too 'borderline' on the castor as they wobble like $hit (due to kingpin inclination). So a 60 front with the knucles rotated and the pinion pointing at the tcase and a DC joint the angles are pretty damn good.

Also RC31 I would not be using 80 series knucles, as if you stick to lux/60 ends you have countless brands and style of steering upgrades ALL off the shelf! and Then you can even upgrade to 25mm kingpin bearing which are ~2% weaker than D60kingpin and way stronger than stock 80ser or GU (17mm i think).

http://www.marlincrawler.com/steering/h ... pgrade-kit

1MadEngineer wrote:

Also RC31 I would not be using 80 series knucles, as if you stick to lux/60 ends you have countless brands and style of steering upgrades ALL off the shelf! and Then you can even upgrade to 25mm kingpin bearing which are ~2% weaker than D60kingpin and way stronger than stock 80ser or GU (17mm i think).

http://www.marlincrawler.com/steering/h ... pgrade-kit

are you inferring that Nissan stuff isn't the be all and end all of steer axles??? you web wheeler you!!! anyone knows that because winch challenge trucks run GU stuff, it must be the greatest.

i brings teh funnay!!





actually this is a comparison 9" / toyota 9.5" / nissan h233b



as you can sorta see, the toy/gu have almost the same locating hole diameter and the hole p.c.d's are similar'ish, the whacked up oblong oval shape one is 9".

RUFF wrote:

uninformed wrote:Bubs,
would there be any advantage in welding axle flanges on the end and using bolt on swivels or knuckles

Serg

If custom axles were cheap this would be the way to go. Obviously though he could make Toyota housings with flanges to go straight into rovers. You would then supply your own hubs etc. Would make for a very strong Toyota conversion. No need for a bash guard. Possibly better ground clearence. And seeing as you need to buy custom axles for the rover conversion anyway you could make them wider as well.

thanks Tony,

I kinda walked away from this and thought about myself "you dickhead"

the whole reason I guess Bub's is doing this is to offer a really good, affordable housing using common parts that can be sorced all over Oz...

rover stuff isnt as common as toy/nissan
it certainly isnt better except maybe one or 2 things like swivel balls????

the spindle(stub axles) have a small opening which doenst allow for larger axle uprgrades....their hubs offer only a small after market selection...brakes arnt any better etc etc...

so basiclly rover can go fuck itself

and if your supply aftermarket knuckles etc etc im sure Bub's could accomedate this also

Serg

Serg. Larger stubs are available for the rovers. And you can then run the Toyota CVs. I actually think its prob not a bad upgrade.

1MadEngineer wrote:i brings teh funnay!!





actually this is a comparison 9" / toyota 9.5" / nissan h233b



as you can sorta see, the toy/gu have almost the same locating hole diameter and the hole p.c.d's are similar'ish, the whacked up oblong oval shape one is 9".

Do you have that same comparison between the Nissan and the Toy pattern only by any chance? I'll be putting a GQ front into a LC60 housing sometime soon and would be interested to see the pattern difference and overlap.

Slunnie wrote:

1MadEngineer wrote:i brings teh funnay!!





actually this is a comparison 9" / toyota 9.5" / nissan h233b



as you can sorta see, the toy/gu have almost the same locating hole diameter and the hole p.c.d's are similar'ish, the whacked up oblong oval shape one is 9".

Do you have that same comparison between the Nissan and the Toy pattern only by any chance? I'll be putting a GQ front into a LC60 housing sometime soon and would be interested to see the pattern difference and overlap.

The 2 PCD's that are close together are toyota 9.5 and H233, you will just need a spacer to keep the axle centerline (face depth - toy 42.5mm, 9" 42.55mm, H233 50mm)

Excellent, thank you very much for this. If the Nissan diff sits on a 7.5mm spacer ring, then it doesn't matter as much if there are overlaps with the studs.

Slunnie wrote:Excellent, thank you very much for this. If the Nissan diff sits on a 7.5mm spacer ring, then it doesn't matter as much if there are overlaps with the studs.

the locating should diameter on both are VERY close so it will sit roughly in the right spot. As you can see on the pic there are 2 studs on the RHS that interfere and 1 at the top as well. HINT: slot the holes in the housing that interfere then install dome head cap screws from the inside-out to replicate studs. The ones that interfere can be threaded in to the spacer which will help hold the spacer in place, and the others can fit through clearance holes.


EASY!

Hello 1 Mad Engineer,

do you have maybe any measurements of a Range Rover diff too?

I would like to put a Nissan high pinion in a Range Rover housing.

Thanks
Chris