Outer Limits 4x4 Board

so caster wedges would suffice to fix this?? any other options, ill have a chat to superior about what need

Yeah, castor wedges will fix it. I'd fit the shackles, then get a wheel alignment to see what degree wedges you need. Then fit the correct wedges to suit.

thanks for the info twisty, any ideas on how to work out the degree required?

loosecanon wrote:any ideas on how to work out the degree required?

TWISTY wrote:get a wheel alignment to see what degree wedges you need

It's really that easy.

ok kewl,

i guess that was pretty dumb question ha, cheers fellas,

Sam T wrote:What lift is required to run 33's and how high for 35's, assuming i extend the wheelbase ~5in

for 33's? none.

for 35's? assuming your moving the rear diff back in that wheelbase stretch, and assuming your going to run powersteering that does away with that relay rod?

none.

40 leafs of the shelf dobinsons 2" raised, we fitted drop away shackels with 12" travel shocks no sway bars running 35" . this setup workes very well with no guard cutting ,mind u it has a 2"cab lift aswell. no happy snaps , not mine..

sorry about bringing up this thread,

ive just bought myself 75 springs for the front. and bout to start working out the best set up for my truck.
what im look for from O/L is to learn abit more about leaf suspension,

i was wondering why do we need to mix the existing 40pack with the 75 series?? is it because of the load? im currently running everything fibreglass so there isn't much weight in the front (except the V8), what would stop me from just removing leaves from the 75 pack and dropping that in?

also what are the pro's and cons of running 2inch extended shackels VS castor wedges?

cheers guys,

loosecanon wrote:sorry about bringing up this thread,

ive just bought myself 75 springs for the front. and bout to start working out the best set up for my truck.
what im look for from O/L is to learn abit more about leaf suspension,

i was wondering why do we need to mix the existing 40pack with the 75 series?? is it because of the load? im currently running everything fibreglass so there isn't much weight in the front (except the V8), what would stop me from just removing leaves from the 75 pack and dropping that in?

also what are the pro's and cons of running 2inch extended shackels VS castor wedges?

cheers guys,

The idea with custom spring setups like you're attempting to so mix and match to find something that works for you. What works for someone else might not work for you.

When i put 75 springs in the front of mine, i used the 3 longest springs of the 75 pack to 1) move the diff forward due to the different offset of the center bolt in the main 75 spring, 2) maintain the military wrap by using the 2 longest 75 series springs and to 3) provide a even stagger down to the short leaves in the spring pack. I used the remaining springs from the 40 series pack because they were a suitable length and provide some weight carrying while not reducing spring pack flex.

So in your circumstances I would first attempt with the 2 longest 75 leaves and put it all together with all the weight you're anticipating in the front end (eg, if you haven't done your v8 swap, do it first, don't have a fibreglass front end then do it first, and if you want a heavy front bar and/or winch then add them first). Once everything is how you want it, put it all back together and see how it sits. Depending on the outcome you could leave it as is or add a leaf to pick it up a bit.

In regards to 2" longer shackles and castor wedges its not either/or but more likely that if you use 2" longer shackles you will then require 2-3deg castor wedges in the front to stop your 40 from tram tracking too much and put your steering geometry closer to stock. By adding longer shackles you are changing the castor angle which affects steering. Adding castor wedges corrects this.

Hope this helps.

And since this threads about flex, some latest flex shots (any excuse to post some more pics):

Static height and shackle angle:

rear end flexed - shackle angle:

front end flexed - shackle angle:

not quite maxed out:

thankx shorty,

flexin nicely there mate, hope i can achieve simalar,
one question though, i the thought the 2" extended shackles brought brought the castor back closer to standard? the way ive been reading it is some peeps use 2" extended shackles to avoid using castor wedges??

i have misunderstood somewhere along the line??

loosecanon wrote:thankx shorty,

flexin nicely there mate, hope i can achieve simalar,
one question though, i the thought the 2" extended shackles brought brought the castor back closer to standard? the way ive been reading it is some peeps use 2" extended shackles to avoid using castor wedges??

i have misunderstood somewhere along the line??

I think you might have misunderstood. using longer shackles will give you a little bit of lift and will allow a greater range of motion for your suspension to cycle (in most cases). By adding lift via shackles it is increasing the distance between the chassis and the axles and in doing so this changes your castor.

Here are some more recent ones of mine.

sorry for the noob questions,

but can someone explain the purpose of bump stops? just pretend you are talking to a dumby,

cheers all,

To stop the axle housing penetrating the chassis on a big bump.

And to stop the tyre rubbing the guards out.

loosecanon wrote:sorry for the noob questions,

but can someone explain the purpose of bump stops? just pretend you are talking to a dumby,

cheers all,

Bump stops limit your suspension compression or up travel. More flexible springs allow for a flatter spring pack as well as one which gives more down travel. It might be necessary to tune your bump stops so that you don't get bigger tyres hitting your guards, or longer shocks bottoming out.

You can see here that with the current length shocks that the bump stop limits any more compression than the shock can handle. This stops damage to the shock if this wasn't in place.


A good rule of thumb is to have 1/3 of your suspension travel in compression or up travel, and 2/3 of its in droop.

really good info, cheers again shorty

so next question is, ive been doing some pricing on extended shackles!!!!! F-me their $200 each end??? does this sound right or is there a cheaper solution?

loosecanon wrote:really good info, cheers again shorty

so next question is, ive been doing some pricing on extended shackles!!!!! F-me their $200 each end??? does this sound right or is there a cheaper solution?

Get some flat bar and bend it up yourself is the cheaper solution.

Flat bar will run you around $15 for the amount you'll need. I made a bender to do mine. Then either use the existing pins in the factory shackles or get some brand spankers from a trailer joint.

Probably be frowned upon here but it works fine.

tehekho wrote:

loosecanon wrote:really good info, cheers again shorty

so next question is, ive been doing some pricing on extended shackles!!!!! F-me their $200 each end??? does this sound right or is there a cheaper solution?

Get some flat bar and bend it up yourself is the cheaper solution.

Flat bar will run you around $15 for the amount you'll need. I made a bender to do mine. Then either use the existing pins in the factory shackles or get some brand spankers from a trailer joint.

Probably be frowned upon here but it works fine.

2nd this method. I had some extended shackles (sold them to de-lux for $70 i think, he might sell them to you cheap if you hit him up) but then made up my own out of 10mm plate, measured it all up and cut it out with a grinder, Ray helped out in letting me use his drill press after i bought some 19mm drill bits which matched the greasable pins.

Easiest way for you would be to source some 2nd hand if you can. Not sure if you need different greasable pins depending on the spring bushes from early vs later years. You might want to confirm what year your 40 is and what springs you're going to be using.

ok guys,

yea this has crossed my mind before, but wasn't to sure if it should be done or not ( frowned upon) im currently running the later model bush ( 60series) in a 45series, keeping the rear leaves the same and i have just picked up 75 springs up front and will be looking at doing the swap once i work out shackles,

any other info needed let me know,

We'll pot calling the kettle black here but don't use extended shackles just use the right height and length spring to start with eliminates castor wedges as well.

My next springers will be custom order!

SCANAS wrote:We'll pot calling the kettle black here but don't use extended shackles just use the right height and length spring to start with eliminates castor wedges as well.

My next springers will be custom order!

Or you could do what I did and fit way huge shackles and move the spring hangar to compensate

Don't care what the science says, it works...

more info on this teheko?

so you move the hangers to give a better shackle angle?

loosecanon wrote:more info on this teheko?

so you move the hangers to give a better shackle angle?

Yeah, I just moved the hangar back (towards the front of the vehicle) until the shackle angle was approximately same as standard. I actually made up new hangars and left the factory ones where they were for ease of reverting to stock.

After I dropped the car back down the angle went to about 45 degrees, but it still handles ok, and flexes well enough for my liking

is it you daily driver? im think of doing that my self, but im looking at moving it all backwards as i don't really want the extra length, ( im in a 45) and my suspension mounts are only bolted in atm, as i pinched them off a 84 chassis,

do you have any pics?

loosecanon wrote:is it you daily driver? im think of doing that my self, but im looking at moving it all backwards as i don't really want the extra length, ( im in a 45) and my suspension mounts are only bolted in atm, as i pinched them off a 84 chassis,

do you have any pics?

Yeah 'tis a daily at the moment. It behaves fine on road - would probably behave a lot better if I had air in the tyres (more than 12-15 psi ).

No pics at present... May get some up one day but probably not... I'm not sure what you mean by moving it all backwards? elaborate a little?

well im putting in 75 springs which in effect will extend my wheel base, well i don't really need or want a longer wheel base so ill move the mounts back to offset the length of the springs, should only be about 2" or so,

loosecanon wrote:well im putting in 75 springs which in effect will extend my wheel base, well i don't really need or want a longer wheel base so ill move the mounts back to offset the length of the springs, should only be about 2" or so,

Back as in towards the front of the vehicle? Yeah, makes sense. Other option would be to just re-drill the spring pack to locate your diff where you want it and then make shackles to achieve the desired angle and use all factory hangars...

Hmmmm

re drilling the springs?? think i might avoid this to much room for error, im using the factory mounts, just locate them back a little to keep it in it's current spot,
see how we go,

still got plenty to go