Outer Limits 4x4 Board

TheBigBoy wrote:Do you have the dyno sheet for the grunter? I know my 1HDT is not going to win any drag races. And with only 100hp currently, I honestly couldnt decide between the 2 ATM.

Would eco be better with the grunter? I would want low egts for long life. I plan to do long k's sitting on 100 and loaded with camping gear etc. And then want as much grunt off the line as possible to get up out of the soft sand.

It all comes down to $ really. The Bad Boy can give the lowest EGT's because it is capable of the highest boost. Its boost response is near identical but flow is improved. It has a different turbine design and size and has a bigger comp wheel but not so much bigger that it compromises low end. If cash isnt an issue go the Bad Boy, if it is go the Grunter. There are actually 6 different specs I do and I call them names just for fun. There are two versions of the Grunter and two versions of the Bad Boy and two versions of the Head Kicker. At the end of the day, more $ gets you a better turbo when comparing Grunter to Bad Boy. The Head Kicker is not what you are looking for (30psi+)

Dyno results have been posted on various forus and in this one in other threads. I'll make it real simple, I suggest the Bad Boy Stage 2 or Grunter Stage 2, The Bad Boy will cost you $140 more... And you will be stoked with either.

Having a few problems with my pump. 1 of the bolts was completely stripped out (the 1 under the compensator of the left that has the spring and pin for the plunger sits against) So its going to cost a bit more and I have to locate another upper casing.

Question: Can you machine your intake ports larger? If im going to do this I may aswell do it right. So I will make a new intake from scratch with no restrictions and incorperate the intercooler aswell.

At the very least, it would be worth having head and manifolds port matched and deburred.

I already looked into the exhaust ports $300 to have them machined. But wasnt sure about intake. Have to do that first before I can play with intake manifolds.

Someone should write up a cad program to do cnc porting.

It gets back to the Perfect vs close thing mate, all these changes may make an improvement but the returns are dimisnishing. Doing it "right" is so subjective. Right for your engine and right for a Lemans or F1 engineer is completely different. Oils aint oils and right aint right.

* basic port clean up doesnt cost much and probably gets you 80% of the performance of a 2K job.
* port macth is big bang for buck
* Inlet manifold, intercooler, turbo and exhaust all big bang for buck
* Ceramic coating *not* big bang for buck. Do this when you do a $2k port job and custom manifolds and upgraded injector pump - ie: when all the other stuff is done.

It' up to each owner; everyone likes to have their signature on their rig, something that is different. So fair enough doing anything extra I say, its half the fun.

[quote="TheBigBoy"]Having a few problems with my pump. 1 of the bolts was completely stripped out (the 1 under the compensator of the left that has the spring and pin for the plunger sits against) So its going to cost a bit more and I have to locate another upper casing.

Bit of a bummer - some heavy handed person didnt know about the strength of ally threads..... Just tig and retap.....

Pumps done. What cfm does the engine require after fitting a bad boy?

Graeme, I am currently running a GT2876R on a 1HZ with water to air intercooling, but looking for something that spools lower yet makes bulk power. I will be rebuilding a engine soon for it and plan on a big power job, bigger pump and strengthend pistons. I wouldnt mind talking to you when your back to work mate, to see whats best for me.

Sounds good, back on deck 17th Jan.