Outer Limits 4x4 Board

shorty_f0rty wrote:Oh also picked up a VDO pyro on tuesday. I noticed it comes with 5 metres of wire from the sender to the gauge. I have seen a few comments online saying you can't shorten it.. is this the case on the VDO guages too?

You can shorten them, but you need to use the correct connectors. It is the connectors that are the key, not the length of wire. I use mini k-type connectors (little yellow things).

shorty_f0rty wrote:

KiwiBacon wrote:Cheers, I don't know what the stock setting for the wastegate is, but it probably changes a little when you clock the turbo. Most guys are running under 10psi.

Keith aka Diesel42 off ih8mud reckons stock setting is 14-15psi.

That's a good source. Is your wastegate arm adjustable?

KiwiBacon wrote:

shorty_f0rty wrote:Oh also picked up a VDO pyro on tuesday. I noticed it comes with 5 metres of wire from the sender to the gauge. I have seen a few comments online saying you can't shorten it.. is this the case on the VDO guages too?

You can shorten them, but you need to use the correct connectors. It is the connectors that are the key, not the length of wire. I use mini k-type connectors (little yellow things).

hm no connectors where supplied with the kit.. I was just going to crimp my std connectors... will look around for it thought.

KiwiBacon wrote:

shorty_f0rty wrote:

KiwiBacon wrote:Cheers, I don't know what the stock setting for the wastegate is, but it probably changes a little when you clock the turbo. Most guys are running under 10psi.

Keith aka Diesel42 off ih8mud reckons stock setting is 14-15psi.

That's a good source. Is your wastegate arm adjustable?

yes I believe it is.. threaded rod on the waste gate. Is it 3 turns = 3psi?
screw out == looser == less pressure to open wastegate?,
screw in == tighter == more tension/pressuer required to open wastegate?

shorty_f0rty wrote:yes I believe it is.. threaded rod on the waste gate. Is it 3 turns = 3psi?
screw out == looser == less pressure to open wastegate?,
screw in == tighter == more tension/pressuer required to open wastegate?

It'll take a few tests to set the boost pressure with the wastegate. It depends not only on the pressure in the can, but how much pressure is inside the turbine housing pushing on the flap from inside. You can do the first bench test with a bike pump and pressure gauge to get it ballpark and then set the rest on the vehicle after a few driving tests.

Yes looser = less boost.

Fingers crossed.. got all my bits now.. and will be firing it up tonight with a test lap off the block to confirm i can drive to the exhaust place tomorrow.

f@#$king oil hose adapter!


took 2 goes to get what I thought was the right one.. but it wasn't...

need to do the run around tomorrow morning and get it sorted. will be taking the oil cooler with me so I can get a fitting that works crimped on worse case..

heres a pic of the exhaust flange.

and everything together (minus oil line)

shorty_f0rty wrote:Oh also picked up a VDO pyro on tuesday. I noticed it comes with 5 metres of wire from the sender to the gauge. I have seen a few comments online saying you can't shorten it.. is this the case on the VDO guages too?

I used a VDO pyro kit and the instructions leaflet said not to cut the cable as it changes the resistance values.
I just coiled the excess under the dash.

good write up, will be very interested to know the final cost once It's running.





Ps , the 60s called, they want their green vacuum cleaner hose back

80's_delirious wrote:

shorty_f0rty wrote:Oh also picked up a VDO pyro on tuesday. I noticed it comes with 5 metres of wire from the sender to the gauge. I have seen a few comments online saying you can't shorten it.. is this the case on the VDO guages too?

I used a VDO pyro kit and the instructions leaflet said not to cut the cable as it changes the resistance values.
I just coiled the excess under the dash.

It's a k-type thermocouple. They can be extended or shortened without issues as long as you use the correct cable and connectors. There is no resistance component to thermocouple circuits as they work on voltage, not current.
I run a VDO, the stock connectors have no strain relief and broke the wires off with engine vibration inside 2 years. At that point I went to mini k-type plugs, these are made specifically for joining thermocouple leads:

KiwiBacon wrote:

80's_delirious wrote:

shorty_f0rty wrote:Oh also picked up a VDO pyro on tuesday. I noticed it comes with 5 metres of wire from the sender to the gauge. I have seen a few comments online saying you can't shorten it.. is this the case on the VDO guages too?

I used a VDO pyro kit and the instructions leaflet said not to cut the cable as it changes the resistance values.
I just coiled the excess under the dash.

It's a k-type thermocouple. They can be extended or shortened without issues as long as you use the correct cable and connectors. There is no resistance component to thermocouple circuits as they work on voltage, not current.
I run a VDO, the stock connectors have no strain relief and broke the wires off with engine vibration inside 2 years. At that point I went to mini k-type plugs, these are made specifically for joining thermocouple leads:

What is special or specific about those connectors over others? Electrickery is not my thing, so I'm happy to be corrected/learn more

80's_delirious wrote:What is special or specific about those connectors over others? Electrickery is not my thing, so I'm happy to be corrected/learn more

The metals used.
Thermocouples work on small voltages being created at the junction of different metals. If you use the wrong connectors then you get an extra thermocouple junction at each wire-connector join which adds or subtracts from the real reading.

well.. after some magic work from John at ENZED Hendra, got the oil cooler fittings sorted and made it to the exhaust shop.

currently catching up on work in the waiting room while it gets sorted..

babied it on the way here but definately cruises a lot easier.. before i'd be in the 2-3000rpm range for normal driving, now its in the 1-2000rpm range.
difficult to gauge clear improvement due to the turbo as diff ratio has gone from 4.11 to 4.56 too.. either way.. its awesome..

I will get my receipts together and tally up the prices on stuff I used...

Price list:
- Turbo: $920
- Manifold: $440
- Exhaust manifold Gasket: $10
- Exhaust Flange: $30
- Dump pipe to existing exhaust: $330
- VDO Pyro gauge (optional): $260
- Misc hoses, t-bar clamps, hose adapters (m10x1.00 to -6 JIC): ~$50
- Silicone reducers 2.5"->2" x 2: ~$60
- Oil feed line + fittings: $75
- Locktite threadlock and gasket goo: $50
- Studs and Whiz-lock nuts: ~$15
- Oil return line: free (had some suitable hose)
- 9" x 2.5" intake piping: free

Total so far: $2240

Still to do:
- Tune for turbo: ~400

had an issue with a boost leak thats now resolved... also loosened the actuator rod about 5 turns to max out at 11psi under load.

turned up the fuel about 1/2 turn and she now flys along quite comfortably.. very happy with the accelleration under load.. at 110kph the engine temp starts to creep over 200f and the pyro hangs about 500-525c.

on the flat at 100kph and about 7-8psi boost the pyro sits at about 350-400c with the water temp around 190f.

Its amazing being able to accellorate at 100kph and still give it some... withthe 4.56's at about 100kph the tacho sits on about 2500rpm.

Got a long trip on the weekend and will probably wind the fuel back in about 1/5th a turn so it the engine temps don't go so high and can sustain more load for longer...

Bit of an update..

Just yesterday it appears the oil seal has gone feeding oil into the intake.

I haven't yet pulled it off to make sure but theres no other oil source that it could come from.. so thats a bit shit..

rang up MTQ and they reckon it'll be cheaper to buy new instead of replace and the turbo is only 17months old. I was running 11psi instead of the 15psi it came with so not like it was overboosting..

Thats disappointing, what was the oil pressure going into the turbo? Is it a ball bearing turbo? Some mates with BB garrets have needed oil restrictors on the turbo oil feed due to oil issues.

Dont know exact oil pressure but the stock gauge has always read well within the mid range..

I checked and its a sleeve bearing and doesn't require an oil restrictor..

And because I dont commute and only use the 40 when wheeling I would think I've done less than 5000kms since installing.

Must be a fault in it somewhere.

Just an update on this (for anyone finding this thread researching a turbo for the 3b and thinking this setup has issues..).

The issue (not mentioned here) was with a governor diaphgram on the injector pump coming off the rail within the injector pump allowing the fuel rack to slide forward and go to full revs. Shutting down via key didnt work and when I first attempted to starve the engine of air via the snorkle hose instead of at the intake manifold.. the vacuum created by the restriction before the turbo caused oil to be drawn past the seal in the turbo and into the intake manifold.

So nothing related to the turbo was cause of this issue and since getting the turbo back from MTQ after they inspected it I've had many more kms of trouble free use..

Not long before I had this issue I'd been in the logan challange which involved a considerable amount of high speed (for my 40 at least) rough dirt tracks .. I suspect this would of contributed to the 8mm nut coming off and allowing the fuel rail disconnecting from the diaphgram.

Good to hear its sorted.