F*#ckin Supercheap Ezyouts :mad:

Post by **bazooked** » Wed Sep 29, 2004 12:05 am

as i said before guys its a spark eroder, we got 1 at work..

Post by **POS** » Wed Sep 29, 2004 9:22 am

Yeah, i didn't read all the replys.

It is very easy and will take no time at all!

And Yes, Tungston or Carbide drill bits will simply shatter if run to slow. They are designed for Very Very high speed. Most hand held drills will not go fast enough to use these drill bits properly so they are pretty ineffective for this problem!

Post by **TuffRR** » Wed Sep 29, 2004 9:50 am

I got a quote for a specialist thread repair guy to come out and fix it. Should cost around $100 which is pretty reasonable i reckon. If he does it, I'll let you know how it was done.

Post by **chimpboy** » Wed Sep 29, 2004 12:06 pm

TuffRR wrote:I got a quote for a specialist thread repair guy to come out and fix it. Should cost around $100 which is pretty reasonable i reckon. If he does it, I'll let you know how it was done.

I'd be happy with that price....

Post by **TuffRR** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 2:33 pm

BTW, if anyone is interested those fancy looking redline drillbits are $17.50 each.

Post by **Justin_M** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 2:51 pm

Instead of those thread type ezy outs (i hate em) ive used, well it was called a bluepoint screw extractor. You drill a hole, hit this bit of rod, with 4 like splines on it into the hole. This bites into the hole, then you simply slip a little nut type thing onto it, which you can then get onto with a spanner.

Very easy to use if you ask me. Just dont hit the rod in too far or its a bitch to get out of the old bolt

Post by **POS** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 3:57 pm

Justin_M wrote:Instead of those thread type ezy outs (i hate em) ive used, well it was called a bluepoint screw extractor. You drill a hole, hit this bit of rod, with 4 like splines on it into the hole. This bites into the hole, then you simply slip a little nut type thing onto it, which you can then get onto with a spanner.

Very easy to use if you ask me. Just dont hit the rod in too far or its a bitch to get out of the old bolt

Thanks but i think his maine concern was to get the Broken "Easyout" OUT!

I have never seen a "Tread Type Easyout"

, i have only ever used the 4 spline easyout! Drill a hole in the broken bolt get the correct size easyout and give it a little tap with a hammer, then twist it out!

I can not picture what you are talking about!

Post by **skootin** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 5:01 pm

Take RUFF'S option stick welders are cheap and very useful for getting broken bolts out patience and persistance is the key.I have had the expirence with removing exhuast manifold bolts from D8 dozer heads they break off upto 1/2 inch down the hole. You should think about thread repair after you get it out being alloy it will probably be damaged. Heli-coils and keenserts are your options both are simple enough to fit keenserts are better if you completly f#*k it up. Easyouts are a marketing tool for high end drill bit manufactures how else would they sell there tools.Never brought one refuse to use them.

Post by **Justin_M** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 5:58 pm

I thought he was talking about the kind of easy out that looks like a screw. You drill a pilot hole, screw the easy out into the hole and it should pull the bolt out. Either way i hate them. The four spline type which you whack into the bolt is much better in my opinion.

I was just trying to give some advise for the future.

Post by **Rainbow Warrior** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 10:16 pm

skootin wrote:Take RUFF'S option stick welders are cheap and very useful for getting broken bolts out patience and persistance is the key.I have had the expirence with removing exhuast manifold bolts from D8 dozer heads they break off upto 1/2 inch down the hole. You should think about thread repair after you get it out being alloy it will probably be damaged. Heli-coils and keenserts are your options both are simple enough to fit keenserts are better if you completly f#*k it up. Easyouts are a marketing tool for high end drill bit manufactures how else would they sell there tools.Never brought one refuse to use them.

Hey, I get stick rods to stick to steel bloody well, I couldn't fail just poking it onto a bolt.

Post by **tony cordell** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 4:10 pm

TuffRR wrote:I got a quote for a specialist thread repair guy to come out and fix it. Should cost around $100 which is pretty reasonable i reckon. If he does it, I'll let you know how it was done.

any news?

Post by **TuffRR** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 8:36 pm

Funny you should ask.....

Got it repaired today, cost Supercheap $140 so I'm happy!

He used pure tungsten drill bits to bit through the ezyout and then we just tapped and helicoiled the hole. Took about an hour.

Now i just got to put it all back together!!!

Post by **tony cordell** » Fri Oct 08, 2004 12:09 am

Excellent!
Your comment about "where are you" had me in stitches so I couldn't work for 5mins for laughing.

Good result though.

on another subject how do you get on with your M/D crawler gears?
I'm going to get a set but run 33's or 35's will there be enough reduction?
I still have 3.54 R/Ps .
as shipping takes a while and cost a fair few $Aus I'd appreciate any feedback before stumping up the cash..

Post by **up2nogood** » Fri Oct 08, 2004 8:03 am

And while we are on the subject, how do they compare to the Marks 4WD gears?

Post by **TuffRR** » Fri Oct 08, 2004 9:07 am

MD crawler gears are awesome. Because they are straight cut, they are noisier than standard but something you get used to quickly. I have an auto and 3.54 ratios in the diffs and find that it crawls really well. For Victorian conditions (mud, snow etc,) the final drive ratio is ideal. I really dont think that going any lower would be useful because of the increased wheel spin.
BTW, there is no Marks kit for Land Rover that i am aware of, so there is no comparison.

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F*#ckin Supercheap Ezyouts :mad:

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