Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Did it about 3 years ago. It runs well, very well. Gives good power too, more than the stock carb. Never ran a weber so cant compare.
Have been told that a 1&3/4 inch SU flows as much as a weber though.
Adjusing the main jet is just a matter of twisting the nut at the bottom of the carby. The only item that may need changing is the needle. And thats a breeze. No way id go back to an Aisin or Hitachi or whatever the pos are.
It just took a little fabbing to make it fit, no big deal.
I couldnt face all the messing with jets etc. to fit a weber.
LM.

hey Luigi. have you got any pics of how you mounted it and of the finished product. also what size needle did you use? sounds like another great solution for the crap aisin carb.
Do you remember what vehicle the su came from or the model number of it? lastly what air cleaner are you using with it.
Thanx B4T

Will do. Not very good pics but you should get the general idea.
This setup was to keep the snorkel, but I kept ripping it off in the bush. I use a ramflo filter now and it goes even better. The SU can be rotated to run at 30 degree angles.
LM.

I found somthing that may be of use to you guys ..... or maybe not.

http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/samurai/webers.htm

Covers the stalling up/down hill thing, setup, offroad use and other stuff

Ok now time for more weber modifications, oh yea!!!!
With the current jet setup im happy with running the weber on road. The off road test, the ANGLES!!!! Well since the fuel bowl is mounted to the rear i was expecting the weber to stall down hill and also from what ive heard from others.
Test time:
Ok tried the weber uphills, tow ball in the dirt, no worries at all, even with all the bumping around, all good.
Downhill yep!! On a descent downhill she stalls out and floods

First mod:
To try and fix the downhill problem, it has to be noted that the weber has a open fuel bowl that vents stright from the top. Also if you look closley the casting has a hole in it, where the top cover sits on the gasket, thus on a downhill, fuel will flow over thru the hole and cover the air correctors, causing a rich condition and flooding. So far i have actually modified the air correctors instead of the carb body to try and fix this. My air correctors now breath thru a brass tube, that is soldered on top and is an inch higher than before.
Tried this and it did increase the downhill capabilities of the weber, but it still floods out!!!
Time to start playing with the float level and make a deflector inside the fuel bowl.
Will keep all updated with progress.
Cheers Dan

Bad JuJu wrote:I found somthing that may be of use to you guys ..... or maybe not.

http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/samurai/webers.htm

Covers the stalling up/down hill thing, setup, offroad use and other stuff

Yes that page has got some good info on it. But looking at the "incline stall modification", it stops the fuel leaking out of the vent, but what i have found even doing that mod it wont stop fuel getting to the air correctors since the cast has a hole right next to the air correctors, so fuel will still leak out and cover them.

i too have been thinking about that problem. the float bowl needs to be sealled off from the air jets and vented into the airbox using a one way valve so not to create a negative pressure in it.

i was going to fill the section near the air jets with soilder and then file it flat so the top of carb will seal onto it with the gasket. the only prob im having it getting the soilder to stick to the bowl. need to ruff up the surfece a bit . Just a hint dont use a gas soildering iron burn the hair off my fingers when some left over fuel went "WOOF"

gonna try it on my spare carb now so i dont blow the car up

built4thrashing wrote:i too have been thinking about that problem. the float bowl needs to be sealled off from the air jets and vented into the airbox using a one way valve so not to create a negative pressure in it.

Yea the float bowl needs to be vented, but why one way valve? Doesnt it need to be at outside atmospheric pressure to outside. Instead of sealing off the whole chamber i fixed the problem by moddin the air correctors. Sealing the bowl like you have still leaves that problem that is tring to be solved in the first place. Also solder wont stick cause its an alloy, but u can buy special aluminium solder from dick smiths. Gas iron and fuel WTF were you thinking???
Dont blow ur truck up yet
Tell us how it all goes
Cheers Dan

i did some research (surfing) and the float should be vented into the throat/intake as a slight negative vac is ok. you should never have a positive pressure in the float bowl as it will force fuel into the main jets and flood/stall the engine. in stock form the float already is vented into the intake. Ive connected the vent onto the airbox to one of the vac connections on it.

also have done a mod to the float bowl to stop it flooding on steep angles toward the air correctors. will do a post on it soon with pics once i test to see if it works properly.

ok just an update.
i think ive fixed the flooding issue i filled in the section that let fuel overflow into the air jets with kneed it metal putty. It doesnt disolve in the petrol and is easier and safer to work with than soilder Ive done a small test run and it seemed better than b4 but havnt had it on any silly angles yet. i also connected the float vent into the intake close to the carby.

Ive also been playing with the jet settings a bit and have just about nailed it except for a bit of hesitation when you floor it at low revs. not sure what it is but some more playing should fix it.

my jetting is now

Primary; idle 70, main 132, F6 E/tube, 160 air, 3.5 aux vent
secondary; idle 55, main 130, F50 E/tube, 175 air, 4.5 aux vent

Hey JRZOOK whats your current settings?

another update. after sending email to sarge in the states i have come up with a better way to vent the float and combat the stalling issue.
We all know by now that you should install the carby backwards and to set the float height right. but where most of us vent the float is not the best option. the below pic is a discription on what to do.

Hey,
Im running,
Primary: Idle 70,e-tube f6,Main 140, air 150
secondary: Idle 55, e-tube f50, main 135, air 170

I would like to see your results when u really test the angles out on it. And as for that hesistation you are talking about, try opening up your pump jet size.

ok guys haveing probs here...
just put a new motor and new webber on my zookie..
ok i have a few webber. nun of them runa anywhere near right!
first one woudlnt run at all.. missed farted caried on a treet
second one.. had blocked jets so pulled apart cleaned out a bit.. and it runs quite nice.. but just wont isdle..
at all.
i pulled the choke off, and it is leakin air in there, it idles near perfct with that hole unblokced but as soon as your put your finger over it.. she all go's to sh*t, and revs drop right off and it stopes
also the fuel mix screw is doing noting, right in, right out, changes noting.
umm yeha... but once it gets about 2000revs on it runs sweet as!
i think i might go get some carbi cleaner..
all ideahs apreciated!
Philby

Red_Zook wrote:had blocked jets so pulled apart cleaned out a bit.. and it runs quite nice.. but just wont isdle..
at all.
i pulled the choke off, and it is leakin air in there, it idles near perfct with that hole unblokced but as soon as your put your finger over it.. she all go's to sh*t, and revs drop right off and it stopes
also the fuel mix screw is doing noting, right in, right out, changes noting.
umm yeha... but once it gets about 2000revs on it runs sweet as!
i think i might go get some carbi cleaner..
all ideahs apreciated!
Philby

Firstly not clean the carby out a bit but clean throughly. If so pull the whole choke system and block its vac port. Make sure all vac ports go somewhere or are blocked. What jets are u on? Try a 135 main and 60-70 primary idle as a start point and set the mixture to 1.5 turns out, see how it goes,
Cheers Dan

ok after a good cleen.. (2 cans of carbi clean.. and making up a blocker for the choke (screw and fuel tank putty )
it runs 100X better. although the fuel mix screw still dosnet to much.
owell at least it looks good and cleen! but it is running better so hey..
although it isint running 100X im still happy!
Philby
i get my gears some time next week so i can tell u all then how it go's for powe.. my jets are WAY smaller than you guys are runnig

ok after a bit of annoying of the hospital next to the new house estate around the corner i have some good results. after the vent was modded and the float re-set a bit lower (44mm at rest) the engine wont stall untill i the car is past 35* (as indicater on inclinometer) even then it just starts to chug and idle at about 400rpm. when pushed past 45* it will still stall. i must say it is alot better than b4.

where do i get a weber? can i just buy one?

I'd like to know the best place to buy a webers suitable for the suzi and the manifold as well.

You can buy webbers from most wreckers, mine is off a 2l cortina. The adapter for the manifold can be bought your local parts place.
Hope that helps.
Nik

like NIK said just get one from a wrecker and then get it reco'd and jetted to suit your engine setup. if ya gonna do it all ya self then collect as many different sized jets as ya can and we should be able to help ya tune it. As for the adaptors they can be bought from most auto parts stores. When mounting it to the manifold its best to hone out the intake so the transition from the weber to the manifold is as smooth as possible allowing for better air flow. this is best done with the manifold removed so no filings get into the motor.

B4T

The apadter is for "32-36 to hitashi asian carbies" got mine from autobarn moss st in brizzy bout $40

Is the adapter a Redline part?

I've been looking all over for the adapter at various Repcos, Autobarn, and Cheaper Auto Spares and they all have catalogues but cannot find the adapter, even after I noted to them that it was an Aisin carb on my Suzi.

BTW I picked up a 32/36 weber from Bargin Auto Spares in Ashmore for $65. They had about 3 or 4 there

I took the water connections for the choke and the intake butterflys off almost instantly, now its time to buy the jets and get it all happening.

The adaptor ive used is a lynx manifold adaptor

part No#
KC112 Adaptor kit
5200 holleyDCD DGV Weber
to Nikki & Asian

i got it from autobarn for i think $27 but then i had to go buy some gaskets to put between the manifold, the adaptor and carby.
on another note you will need to fab up a accelerator arm for the carb and if you mount it backwards you may have to move the PCV valve out the way.

[quote="jabtronic"]Is the adapter a Redline part?

I've been looking all over for the adapter at various Repcos, Autobarn, and Cheaper Auto Spares and they all have catalogues but cannot find the adapter, even after I noted to them that it was an Aisin carb on my Suzi.

BTW I picked up a 32/36 weber from Bargin Auto Spares in Ashmore for $65. They had about 3 or 4 there

I took the water connections for the choke and the intake butterflys off almost instantly, now its time to buy the jets and get it all happening.[/quote

Check with pro-gas in brizzy.

built4thrashing wrote:The adaptor ive used is a lynx manifold adaptor

part No#
KC112 Adaptor kit
5200 holleyDCD DGV Weber
to Nikki & Asian

i got it from autobarn for i think $27 but then i had to go buy some gaskets to put between the manifold, the adaptor and carby.
on another note you will need to fab up a accelerator arm for the carb and if you mount it backwards you may have to move the PCV valve out the way.

Ok cheers for that, should make it alot easier.

I'm halfway through my weber install, but have ran into some small problems you guys should be able to help me with.

I don't know which vacuum to use, and which ones I should block off.

On the weber there are two vacuum ports and the one fuel port right? I've got the fuel hooked up but dont know which vacuum lines to put onto which vaccum ports.

At the moment I have my bottom vacuum line on the weber, connected to the dizzy (which doesnt seem right. shouldnt it be to the manifold?)

And then the second vacuum line (hanging on the block thing off the side) is hooked into the vacuum line that runs down near the thermostat?

Here's a pic, you can see where the top vacuum hose goes down towards the radiator, and the other one goes to that thing on the dizzy.

Thanks

I thought about getting a webber but it would want to be a mind blowing difference with the amount of pissing around you guys have had to do just to get them to work properly i think i'll give it a miss!

think about how muck pissing around there is doing efi and the cost of efi. there is a lot less with a weber and ya can have it all done and working for under $300. and the difference is huge

CHOPS1 wrote:I thought about getting a webber but it would want to be a mind blowing difference with the amount of pissing around you guys have had to do just to get them to work properly i think i'll give it a miss!

Well the pissing around has already been done so that makes it a little easier.

Now can anyone tell me which vacuum lines to hook into? Cheers

WHICK VAC LINES YOU USE WILL DEPEND ON WHAT WEBER YOU USE AS THEY DO VARY.
WE NEED THE NUMBERS AFTER THE 32/36???