Outer Limits 4x4 Board

redzook wrote:u priced the ds diconnect?



twin stick hasnt been released yet

no haven't priced them yet and the twin stick can be done at home in about 2 hours.

Chris

u can just remove one of the balls and do it even quicker to select 2wd

ill be suprised if u land a ds diconnect for less then 600

redzook wrote:u can just remove one of the balls and do it even quicker to select 2wd

ill be suprised if u land a ds diconnect for less then 600

that's ok, it's the key to this setup. i can't think of any other way of achieving rear wheel drive only when needed.

Chris

Tim
I have ordered a rear disconnect from sam,Have been waiting for bloody ages for it to come in.
Ordered it when i first started building my buggy...
Can't wait for it to get here...

where can i get the instructions to do the twin stick conversion????


Jamie

Fourwheelin wrote:where can i get the instructions to do the twin stick conversion????

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=309046

will the rotor have enough low down torque or you just going to gear it down so your revvin in the peak

The rotaries in stockish form have alot more torque than they are given credit for.
1madengineer had or built for someone else (jezz I killed alot of brain cels lately.. I cant remember sh*t) a rotary powered Zuk and loved it

The heavily modded ones are gutless low down, bit so are alot of motors.

could he do the twin sticks mod 2 a lux trany

yes you can do it to a lux tranny

With the rotory motor cant you get more tourqe out of it by putting in a bridge sport or monster port instead of a turbo.

Also a question on the rear mounted VW buggy, could you use the standard engine and gear box could you adapt the chain driven T/case on it from the suzuki. Im looking at building on late this year, eairly next year. So im starting to gather info now. And the VW seems to be the easy option.

re the driveshaft disconnect.

A mate of mine suggested that "maybe" a dog clutch out of an old holden 3 speed non synchro gearbox could be adapted for this use?

I've never seen inside one of these boxes, would it be do able?

not porting the rota as i'm after a smooth idle.
i will try toi match the tourque convertor revs and when the turbo spools up to get boost as soon as i get drive.

Chris

A Lada Niva tranfer case is cheap and has strait cut gears. Might be stronger than a Suzuki case.

interested in that disconnect system
1mad &me put 13b pp ex racing beat usa motor in sierra hard top
had ser 1 rx7 auto behind it with stock convertor
went like a bullet &pulled like a train from idle
lifted front tyre off the line
didnt get time to hook up the nitrous but would have been mad
sound like it will be an awsome buggy

v8zuki wrote:interested in that disconnect system
1mad &me put 13b pp ex racing beat usa motor in sierra hard top
had ser 1 rx7 auto behind it with stock convertor
went like a bullet &pulled like a train from idle
lifted front tyre off the line
didnt get time to hook up the nitrous but would have been mad
sound like it will be an awsome buggy

that's the way uh huh, uh huh, i like it!

A couple of things to add here:

A Nissan 720 4x4 has a divorced transfer case, if you want a bigger unit than the zuk & more available than the Lada. These units are preety strong, guys in the states put V8's in front of them.

The photo you posted before "rotary hoe" I beleive is a tractor pull vehicle, not a mud runner.

From a mechanical point of veiw, I would have thought using factory mechanicals would have been the cheapest option. Therefore I would using the rotary, along with the RX7 auto, then a twin stick hilux transfer case. This would all be setup in a convential manor, ie front mount motor.

If you are worried about weight distribution, then move then engine/gearbox/transfer towards the rear & build remote sticks for the transfer case. The downside is that the rotary exhaust is going to be beside your feet, which will make general maintainence harder and be noisy.

Doing this would mean your drive shafts would be of equal length (only need 1 spare), and everything would spin in the direction it was originally designed. It would also provide less headaches than someting from left field.

Is there any reason for the rear engined criteria except for the novelty/bling factor??

Mytqik wrote:A couple of things to add here:

A Nissan 720 4x4 has a divorced transfer case, if you want a bigger unit than the zuk & more available than the Lada. These units are preety strong, guys in the states put V8's in front of them.

The photo you posted before "rotary hoe" I beleive is a tractor pull vehicle, not a mud runner.

From a mechanical point of veiw, I would have thought using factory mechanicals would have been the cheapest option. Therefore I would using the rotary, along with the RX7 auto, then a twin stick hilux transfer case. This would all be setup in a convential manor, ie front mount motor.

If you are worried about weight distribution, then move then engine/gearbox/transfer towards the rear & build remote sticks for the transfer case. The downside is that the rotary exhaust is going to be beside your feet, which will make general maintainence harder and be noisy.

Doing this would mean your drive shafts would be of equal length (only need 1 spare), and everything would spin in the direction it was originally designed. It would also provide less headaches than someting from left field.

Is there any reason for the rear engined criteria except for the novelty/bling factor??

weight distribution, better forward vision, novelty / bling factor (sponsors love this)
something different.

Chris

Fair enough.

I was thinking about this last night, and came up with this piece of masterful engineering.

Bolt the rotor to the auto, rear mounted as you wish, then use a jack shaft to a twin stick hilux transfer. This would require a plate made up for the front of the transfer, which would also have to support a bearing for the input shaft.

Pun the two driveshafts down to your diffs, (although the transfer outputs are going to be on the wrong side of the diff centres).

Then on the diff itself build a simple 2 gear reduction hub. This would bolt to the diff housing itself, with the top gear splined etc onto the axle. (A full floater l/c diff would work well). The lower gear which meshes with the top gear, will have the wheel hub on it, but it will reverse the direction of rotation. These hubs could also have further reduction in them if needed, just like the unimog.

Would this solve all of your problems so far?? PM if you want a drawing to cleat things up.

Mytqik wrote:Fair enough.

I was thinking about this last night, and came up with this piece of masterful engineering.

Bolt the rotor to the auto, rear mounted as you wish, then use a jack shaft to a twin stick hilux transfer. This would require a plate made up for the front of the transfer, which would also have to support a bearing for the input shaft.

Pun the two driveshafts down to your diffs, (although the transfer outputs are going to be on the wrong side of the diff centres).

Then on the diff itself build a simple 2 gear reduction hub. This would bolt to the diff housing itself, with the top gear splined etc onto the axle. (A full floater l/c diff would work well). The lower gear which meshes with the top gear, will have the wheel hub on it, but it will reverse the direction of rotation. These hubs could also have further reduction in them if needed, just like the unimog.

Would this solve all of your problems so far?? PM if you want a drawing to cleat things up.

a bit too complicated, by just turning the diffs upside down i will get the rotation thing correct.

But won't you have problems:

A. With cutting & welding your housing back together? It will never be as strong as original.

B. It would be hard but not impossible to get everything alighend & running true when welding it back together.

C. Wont the diff gears be running backwards? This may be of concern if you are really loading them up with big tyres?

Just my thoughts.

All very good points, but from my experience:

Mytqik wrote:But won't you have problems:

A. With cutting & welding your housing back together? It will never be as strong as original.

The only thing that will be cut and re welded on the housings are the steering knuckles. Rotating the knuckles is a very comon thing to do, often done to correct castor angles, if prepped and welded properly, there is no reason why this wouldn't be as strong, if not stronger than standard.
The housings will then have all the suspension bracketry welded in place for the 4 link and airshox.
B. It would be hard but not impossible to get everything alighend & running true when welding it back together.

True, but it's been done many times before, remember i'm using a housing that would normally run leaf springs on it anyway.

C. Wont the diff gears be running backwards? This may be of concern if you are really loading them up with big tyres?

The front landcruiser diffs are backward hilux diffs anyway, set the gears up properly and they should be ok.
Just my thoughts.

buy the time her got custom axles, gears portal box's and all that shit made for 4 wheels it would cost him way maore than just a se of mog axles or dana 60s

spazbot wrote:buy the time her got custom axles, gears portal box's and all that shit made for 4 wheels it would cost him way maore than just a se of mog axles or dana 60s

like i've said earlier, i want to keep things relateivley simple.

Damn!

the thought occurred to me thismorning that i will now have to run off set diff centres lux one in the front and probably a bundy one in the rear to cope with the zook transfer case having off centre outputs.

oh well more $$$$

Chris

roc70y wrote:Damn!

the thought occurred to me thismorning that i will now have to run off set diff centres lux one in the front and probably a bundy one in the rear to cope with the zook transfer case having off centre outputs.

oh well more $$$$

Chris

You could always just run a double, double cardin drive shaft. That's most probably what I will be doing.

roc70y wrote:Damn!

the thought occurred to me thismorning that i will now have to run off set diff centres lux one in the front and probably a bundy one in the rear to cope with the zook transfer case having off centre outputs.

oh well more $$$$

Chris

Why not Mq nissan or similar? Cheap & Available, also offset.

Use a 4.6 nissan and 4.5 Hilux?

Someone commented before about using dissimilar ratios and the fact that you could use slightly different ones.

DeWsE wrote:

roc70y wrote:Damn!

the thought occurred to me thismorning that i will now have to run off set diff centres lux one in the front and probably a bundy one in the rear to cope with the zook transfer case having off centre outputs.

oh well more $$$$

Chris

You could always just run a double, double cardin drive shaft. That's most probably what I will be doing.

just use a standard drive shaft

if u turn ur head sideways it is just a normal angle
a drive shaft dosent know if it is upside down or not

redzook wrote:

DeWsE wrote:

roc70y wrote:Damn!

the thought occurred to me thismorning that i will now have to run off set diff centres lux one in the front and probably a bundy one in the rear to cope with the zook transfer case having off centre outputs.

oh well more $$$$

Chris

You could always just run a double, double cardin drive shaft. That's most probably what I will be doing.

just use a standard drive shaft

if u turn ur head sideways it is just a normal angle
a drive shaft dosent know if it is upside down or not

I can't think of the best way to explain it but the uni's will still be on operating angles just the shaft is on a different plane, as red zook said it should work fine, unless theres something i'm missing

Chris give it a week or so and your thinking will change a little

Dont worry about drive shafts, offsets are no problem. My Transfer output is to the left. My diff is centred. I get no Uni Binding.

RUFF wrote:Chris give it a week or so and your thinking will change a little

Dont worry about drive shafts, offsets are no problem. My Transfer output is to the left. My diff is centred. I get no Uni Binding.

i was wondering when you'd catch on to this thread.

and i'm sure my plans will change...

Chris

btw
I think Ruff runs different ratios front and rear, the front wheels spinning quicker than the back.