Outer Limits 4x4 Board

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zuffen wrote:I have the Toyota 1UZ-FE in my Rover.

It's got 300HP with good headers and an improved air intake. Otherwise stovk.

I'm currently chucking out the old LT77 and going to run a Torqueflite as I plan on big HP mods later.

Done sensibly it should cost less than $5,000 DIY or $7,500 done for you.

Nothing in the conversion is hard.

These things rev to 7,000rpm and produce usefull torque from 1,500rpm.

I can't get the power down on the ground with 12r15x33 Muddies as they just spin.

Hi There, about time someone put a top engine into a rangie, I am looking at the same conversion myself and was just woundering where you got the engine mounts and bellhousing.
Thanks

Rangie Thing wrote: Hi There, about time someone put a top engine into a rangie, I am looking at the same conversion myself and was just woundering where you got the engine mounts and bellhousing.
Thanks

Somebody has, ROVER

Rainbow Warrior wrote:

Rangie Thing wrote: Hi There, about time someone put a top engine into a rangie, I am looking at the same conversion myself and was just woundering where you got the engine mounts and bellhousing.
Thanks

Somebody has, ROVER

I 2nd that ! If you want a toyo donk, buy a toyo !

[/quote]

I 2nd that ! If you want a toyo donk, buy a toyo !

I did and put a Chev in it

Rangie Thing,

I made the engine mounts to suit the position the engine ended up in, with the standard transmission mounts.

The bellhousing uses an adaptor I made. The new Torquflite arrangement will use the Toyota bellhousing fitted to the front pump of the torqueflite. I removed the torqueflite bellhousing.

I have a Rover engine under the bench in my garage. Far prefer it there than under my bonnet!

If you PM me I can email you a write up on the swap. It's easy and gives you an engine with heaps more HP and more Torque right across the range. Plus it's reliable which is more than I can say about my Rover engine.

When you say removed the TF bellhousing i'm guessing you machined it cause i thought the TF had one piece case

cloughy wrote:When you say removed the TF bellhousing i'm guessing you machined it cause i thought the TF had one piece case

The rangie t/f is not a chrysler one but an inter scout case with seperate bell housing.

Loanrangie wrote:

cloughy wrote:When you say removed the TF bellhousing i'm guessing you machined it cause i thought the TF had one piece case

The rangie t/f is not a chrysler one but an inter scout case with seperate bell housing.

Yea AMC casing but still thought no bell housing sorry could be wrong though

G`day TFT owners,
The 727 TFT used in the 3.5 rangie is normaly ( maybe only europe??) a chrysler one. And they are one piece casings. The Jag V12 5.3 2 door convertible (XJS?) had the same one. I am running one with my 5.2 Rover v8 and it rocks! If you want the best ( read fastest, changes gear faster than you are able to move the lever!) offroad race valve body on earth, contact Ali in Britain at waldockmoes@aol.com. He has converted nearly all TFT for the british offroad racer`s and there are heaps. He does a great job, including better flow for cooling, bigger brakebands....He also has mod`s, if your engine pumps out more than 500bhp..just in case! But you need a decent V8!! I am running the TFT with the Art-Carr manual shifter and had the converter customised based on my engine dynograhps. Only 3 gears, but great fun! ...after breaking 4 Santana 5-speed gearboxes..... just make sure, you got the original RR special V8 sump and reenforcing brackets! And a decent oilcooler!
marc switzerland

It may be a chrysler box but the case is not a standard chrysler item, our local chrysler tf's wont bolt in place of the rover spec ones.

s3111107@ wrote:Drive a very good condition 89 rangie, last of 3.5 injected. What is the best conversion to do; holden, rover 3.9 or 4.6, stroker, or rebuild original 3.5? Would like opinions on what handles best and has less problems not necessarily highest power output.

Cheapest mod for your engine (particulalry after 250,000kms) is to pull the heads off and have them reco'd. Put a good torquey cam in with new lifters and replace the old stretcheroo cam chain with a JP double row chain set. When you pull off the heads and you see extensive bore wear, then it might be time to toss it. Or, as is normal, the bores aren't that worn then perhaps rering the pistons and toss in some new big end bearings while you're there.

You'd be surprised with how much better the old cow will go and it won't cost you millions or involve engine removal.

Of course, if your engine is shagged, the next best thing to do would be hit Zuffen up for the engine under his garage bench, cos sure as shit he spent some good coin on it before going Yota!

Hi Zuffen, Rangie Thing here don't know if you got my pm the other day ( i might not have sent it right or you might be on holidays). so here is my email again just in case. dip07@msn.com
Thanks.
P.S. 1uzfe rule!!

Loanrangie wrote:

cloughy wrote:When you say removed the TF bellhousing i'm guessing you machined it cause i thought the TF had one piece case

The rangie t/f is not a chrysler one but an inter scout case with seperate bell housing.

Just went to my mates who is a chrysler and RR nut who has just rebuilt torque flyte and lt 230 to mate with his 360 for the RR.

TF on bench is an AMC housing. Has NO bell housing. and uses all mopar internals.

Sorry for no reply but was out bush with the family. Not in my Rover but my ML320.

I machined the bell off the T/f as it is a one piece box. If I could get a box with removable bell that would have made the task much easier. The Rover t/f does use a strange bolt pattern that doesn't appear to fit any Chrysler product.

The bell and box are at the machinists getting a bit of work done.

I will need to fit the torque converter with the yota ringear ans adapt the yota flex plate to the Chrysler bolt pattern. Lastly i will need to reduce the diameter of the locating stub on the converter to fit inside the yota crank.

I'm planning on using Transgo internals with a B&M shifter for full manual control.

I feel it was easier to swap from yota to Rover at the end of the crank than between the yota 4 speed auto and the LT230 as the spud shaft needed was going to be a pain. I know a few people doing the 1UZ swap and retaining the yota box and adapting t the LT230.

Hey Zuffen, Thanks for the email on the 1uzfe conversion, just been to lextreme site with your bellhousing adapter ( looks easy ) at the moment i think i will stay with the 4 speed box. with the lt230 transfer could the internals be put into the 4 speed box? or is the tapered bearing conversion for the 4 speed just as good.
As for the engine i have a front sump ( wounder if i could just turn it around )
The manifolds hug the engine and the o2 senors are under and not out to the side.
The oil filter i will have a look into a remote mount one.
But saidly the air con will have to go for the alts new home.
P.S. do you have a body lift kit fitted for your coversion?.
Thanks Rangie thing.

Hi all...I've been watching this thread for a while. My Rangie has a P76 4.4 bored out to 5.0L and I love it. Sure its an old conversion but its fairly easy, has great TORQUE and Revs hard.... Really pleased with it. My perfect 3.5 is still in my shed but the biiger cubes are great. I also have the Toyo 4.0L Quad Cam V8 in my race car and while it is an amazingly strong and well engineered motor (and Cheap) it doesn't have the low down Torque IMO that is needed in a BOG OLD FAT RR. My little Toyo Revs to 8000rpm and pushes 985kg of little car very hard but the characteristics of that motor with a LT95 behind it again IMO are not as good as other options....Especially for a 4wd that is into more serious driving rather than touring. Maybe an auto would be more complimentary but...............

My 2cents worth!

MATT
GOLD COAST

Rangie Thing,

Sorry I can't answer the question on the LT230 guts in the LT95.

Your front sump engine is out of an LS400 or Japanese Celsior. You can swap to a rear sump quite easily. Sign up with the lextreme Site and post a wanted to buy/swap as a lot of guys will be looking for a front sump setup to swap for their rear unit.

Chase up a Crown oil filter (I have a spare so PM me) and you can modify it to fit.

The air co should be able to be mounted above the alternator about cam cover level.

My car is a Dakar conversion and I run 11" 220lb springs in the front. I wouldn't need them with a rear sump but my starter is behind the bowl of a mid sump so the sump has to be a bit forward.

Matta,

I was concerned at the apparent lack of torque from the 1UZ. In fact the torque available doesn't drop below a standard Rangie at any point in the (useable) rev range and the maximum output is almost twice the output of the Rangie. Whilst I agree the bottom end looks a bit thin it doesn't translate onto the road. I have trouble getting out of roundabouts and sweeping bends as it can't get traction on the front end and I run 12.5 x 33's.

I figure unless you're rock crawling there is always a lower gear to get into. Even the venerable Rangie engine needs help in rock crawling with lower gears.

Yeah fair enough...It's all relative I guess. Having not driven a RR with a Toyo I can't comment as such but it sure sounds like you have your beast set up very well....

I'd rather have my 8000rpm 1uZ screaming in my AC than my Rangie but......bloody axles!!!!!!!

MATTA

Seeing I was the one who committed the sacrilage of suggesting a Toy V8 , it may seem strange but I now think that the old 3.9 has a lot of life yet.
The reason is that I put a "Thor " inlet manifold on my 3.9 which added 30% !!!! torque from 1000RPM to 3,000 RPM for a loss of about 5% over 3,500. Along with the Unichip this has added over 50% of torque/power(tractive effort) at under about 2500RPM ,tapering to about 15% at 3,500, then up to about 30% at high revs. This includes about 7% from head mods.
The cost of the manifold was about $1000 , including $350 in machining. You need a Unichip to rebalance the mixtures.
However I was able to use my pressure regulator, fuel rail, stepper, MAP sensor and all 3.9 sensors. It has all the civility of a standard 3.9 .
The performance of the car is now excellent, and as my son says, it drives like a Commodore, in power that is.
So , a few well chosen mods can update the 3.9 to acceptable performance with great torque . Seeing my main beef was not being able to hold the cruise control on steep hills I am VERY happy with the result.
Regards Philip A